replacing cutlass bearing

[Braxton]

We just hauled the boat out for a new coat of bottom paint.    An inspection of all the underwater bits revealed that I need a new cutlass bearing.   After looking at the tech wiki and previous discussions on the forum I have a few questions.   The boat is an 1988 hull #805.

1) There seemed to be some confusion on whether there are set screws or if the bearing is simply pressed in.    Is there a definitive answer?   Are there set screws?
2) Seems like I can remove the shaft with the rudder on but I can only put the shaft back on if I install the shaft before the bearing.    How do I then install the bearing?   Do I need one of these:   http://www.strutpro.com/?
3) If I have to go to the trouble and expense of finding that tool isn't easier to just press the old one out with the shaft in place?
4) The shaft size is 1" but what is the outside diameter that I need?  What length is it?
5) Any other questions I should be asking?

Thanks,
Braxton

[KWKloeber]

The bearing is, believe it or not,   standard: 1" x 1-1/4" x 4"   
Either a Johnson "BACK" cut"LESS" or a Morse "BLACKFISH" cut"LASS" bearing.   

I have seen struts on Catalinas both with and w/o setscrews, mostly w/o. 
Shine the hub up with sandpaper, wet or dry, emery cloth, coarse 3M pad, crocus cloth, etc., and seek them out.

If the strut/bearing is highly corroded (or it's been 2 decades in the salt since servicing) prep, prep, prep is key.  I have "a guy" in freshwater who soaked his in PB Blaster for a week (w/ a heavy plastic bag as a hammock around the hub.) It pushed out and back in like butter.     Alternating heat (w/a torch) on the hub helps break the corrosion bond.

AND be sure to lap fit the prop afterward.
see RC's excellent website for how.
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects

kk

[Ron Hill]

Braxton : There are numerous articles in the Mainsheet tech notes and WiKi on replacing the cutless bearing.

Most of the C34s have a pressed in bearing, however best look on the side of the strut for the set screws - just in case.

The easiest way to replace it is with a "StrutPro" tool.  The first time I replaced mine I used a friends' home made tool!!
Yes, you can press the old one out and press the new one in with the drive shaft in place. 
Takes about one hour of work

A few thoughts

[Indian Falls]

I made my own tool. You only need remove the prop. 
Simply push the old bearing toward the bow.
Then you push the new bearing into the skeg toward the bow. 
Just take tin snips or an angle grinder to the old bearing to remove it.
My skeg had a set screw, but the press fit sort of made me wonder why.

You can use my tool if you want. I have instructions and pics I can send or add to this thread.

[Indian Falls]

Here are two pics of the tool pushing a bearing out and pushing one in.
You cannot push the old bearing out with the new, it does not have the rigidity necessary to not crush and fold up.  The pusher is a piece of 4130 tubing turned to just under the diameter of the bearing housing.

[KWKloeber]

Dan,

If you split the tubing down the center w/ a band saw to turn it into 2 collets, you can push the cutlass out the aft of the strut and not have to cut it off the shaft. 
Also a split 1" ID collar works really well to push the collets to remove and to push the bearing to install.

Ken

[Indian Falls]

Ken,  True.  But I didn't make a strut pro! 

It made more sense to cut the bearing afterward since it was so much easier than making split drivers for the tool. 

It works great. Anyone who wants to use it only need pay for shipping. 

[fatamorgana]

Here are two pics of the tool pushing a bearing out and pushing one in.
You cannot push the old bearing out with the new, it does not have the rigidity necessary to not crush and fold up.  The pusher is a piece of 4130 tubing turned to just under the diameter of the bearing housing.

I used Dan's bearing tool last weekend.  Worked great!  Made the job very easy. 

I rented a gear puller from an auto parts store to pull the prop.  All in, I probably had 2 hours into it.  Thanks again Dan!

[KWKloeber]

Hey Dan

I was just looking at your pics again. Why did you use the turned tubing to push the new bearing in?  Why not just push it with your aft flange?  Seems with the LONG extension created with the tube there's more of a chance for the assembly to go askew?

BTW, a set of collets already sized for the shaft/strut are $35 - I don't know how that compares to turning down solid tubing and having to split the bearing after pushing it forward.

Ken

[Noah]

Ken- who sells the set of collets?

[KWKloeber]

I think I have 2 sets in stock, how many do you want Noah?

[Noah]

Thx Ken!  I'll take one set please.

[KWKloeber]

Okie dokie.  Are you making a puller/pusher?

k

[Noah]

I think so. In any case, they should come in handy in my "kit". Last time I had cutlass bearing changed the doofus yard guy (in the fancy race boat top 'o line yard) started ponding on my cutlass with a screwdriver and sledge hammer. I stopped him after two wacks and borrowed a proper tool/puller. I have my own prop puller (for some 30+ yrs.) but haven't tried to adapt it yet for cutlass R&R. Your collets should help.

[KWKloeber]

I hear ya about yard jockeys. I've seen some very dumb things done by some even more dumb meatheads. No one works on mine unless I know who it is and their ability, or I am present. Mostly I'm cheap, I mean frugal, do it myself.

I've found yards that charge up to 1600 to replace a bearing.

That said (and I admit a little bias here) unless one has $ to burn or just time on their hands, or multiple uses/users, I don't see how it makes sense to buy or make a tool that's used one a decade when it can be rented for $49.  Tho, to each his own, of course.

k