Facet Fuel Pump Heats Up

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

Have you taken your boat out since you replaced the fuel pump? Is it possible that you fixed the problem and maybe it's normal for the pump to run hot. Has anyone else checked their pump to see if it always runs cool? Another thought.

Mike

[KWKloeber]

Ron, regardless of whether it solves his Facet pump heating issue, are you recommending keeping this knob cracked open all the time while running? What is the upside/downside of doing this, for us non-mechanics out there.

Noah, if she runs like a top with the bleed cracked, there's no downside, and a little upside - higher flow thru the filters and so you have a little mini polishing system going on there.  Not dramatic, but can't hurt.

When the bleed is closed, fuel that bypasses the injectors via the donuts (i.e., the fuel that they can't handle) still returns to the tank, so there's a tiny amount of  "polishing" going on anyway.

Ken

[Ron Hill]

Ken : Start an M25/M25XP engine, Close the bleed valve and Take the fuel return line off the aft injector and - see how much fuel come out!!

A thought

[Noah]

Guys- for the non-mechanics in the group. Here's a "thought".   Also a humble request for guidance. How about dispense with the subtleties and take a stand?
Recommend:
1. Crack it open?
2. Keep it closed?  
Thx
Noah  
Of course: with the usual caveat "your boat, your choice"  
PS- sorry if I infringed on anyone's copyright.

[KWKloeber]

Guys- for the non-mechanics in the group. Here's a "thought".   Also a humble request for guidance. How about dispense with the subtleties and take a stand?
Recommend:
1. Crack it open?
2. Keep it closed?  
Thx
Noah  
Of course: with the usual caveat "your boat, your choice"  
PS- sorry if I infringed on anyone's copyright.

Noah,  I thought I was clear -- "if she runs like a top with the bleed cracked, there's no downside, and a little upside "

The 'more open' the bleed, the more fuel polishing will be going on.  You're simply creating a parallel loop past the injector pump to push more fuel flow.  If (doubtful) the pump get starved (low power putting the hammer down) then close the bleed by smidgens.  Nothing is absolute.

BTW my bleed screw doesn't return bled fuel to the fuel return line to the tank, it's just a port so I can see/check the fuel when I bleed the fuel line.  I catch it in a solo cup so I can get a look (and probably a false sense of security.)  But I could add a separate bypass loop w/ an in-line needle to create the same thing as you have.

Ken

[Rick Allen]

So I managed to get down to the boat yesterday for more investigation.  After replacing the ½" return line, I placed the tank end into a bucket and ran the pump with the knurled knob closed. No fuel flowed into the bucket. Cool. Opened the knob half a turn, some fuel flowed into the bucket. Cool. Opened the knob all the way, major fuel flow into the bucket. Very cool.
Re-connected all the lines, checked all the connections, opened the knob half a turn, started and ran the engine under load in the slip at 2000RPM for 30 minutes. Fuel pump stayed COOL to the touch the entire time and the engine ran strong. I checked the voltage to the pump per Robert Mann's suggestion and it seems to be within normal range.

Saturday I will install a new K&N air filter with a different breather route as I noticed the OEM filter is in pretty bad shape. "Mainsail" has a good write-up on it.
But that's a whole different thread...

Is the problem solved? Everything points to yes, but I'll shake her down over the weekend and see.

Thanks to everyone here for the helpful suggestions. This group has never failed to respond when help is requested.

Corinthian sailors all.

[Gary]

Thanks for the response Rick. It is always nice to hear the feedback on problem solving and close the loop.

Glad to hear that leaving the knob open a half turn cooled the pump down. It did that for KIJE and a new Facet Fuel Pump. Let's hope it cures the stall out problem as well :):)

Gary  

[Hugh17]

OK, good advice.

What it does NOT answer is why Rick's engine faltered.

Nor does it answer the issue of the fact that my knurled knob is closed and my engine works just fine, going on 17 years.

I have not checked the warmth of the Facet fuel pump, but I will my next time out.

Ideas?

I've had my 1987 C34 less than 2 years and had to replace the engine when I purchased the boat. I'm fairly certain that the "return" fuel line only runs a few inches past the "knurled knob" and is this closed at all times. I assumed this was for bleeding the fuel system is needed. I like the idea of this line running back to the fuel tank. Is there a fitting on the tank to attach the return fuel line?

[lazybone]

Guys- for the non-mechanics in the group. Here's a "thought".   Also a humble request for guidance. How about dispense with the subtleties and take a stand?
Recommend:
1. Crack it open?
2. Keep it closed?  
Thx
Noah  
Of course: with the usual caveat "your boat, your choice"  
PS- sorry if I infringed on anyone's copyright.

My valve has been closed since 1988.

I had no idea I had a problem?

(I wish my prostrate was as trouble free.)

[Ralph Masters]

Been following this thread past week or so.  So yesterday I was at the boat and decided to check out the return valve thing. 
First thing I discovered is that the PO had put a blue paint dot on the valve wheel at the closed point, and another at the 1/3 open point.  So I set it at the blue dot, turned on the key checked the fuel pump and no ticking.
Strange I thought, since when I change the fuel filters and I open the valve fully it ticks and bleeds the system.
Start the engine and  it runs and no ticking in the fuel pump, then the engine dies.
Start checking and the positive wire to the pump is laying in the bilges. The end going into the crimp fitting is corroded and broke/fell off.
So I pull the wire out, cut back some and re crimp with new fitting and it works as designed.
So glad it did not happen while motoring into the channel back to the marina.

Ralph

[KWKloeber]

Start checking and the positive wire to the pump is laying in the bilges. The end going into the crimp fitting is corroded and broke/fell off.
So I pull the wire out, cut back some and re crimp with new fitting and it works as designed.
So glad it did not happen while motoring into the channel back to the marina.

Ralph

Ralph,

This is such a common occurrence -- as it is with the starter solenoid quick connect, on-engine lift pumps on the B series engines, oil switches, etc, etc.  -- the 1/4" quick-disconnect terminals were crap to begin with, and once in a marine environment they corrode, or loosen and fall off.  There's no good way to provide moisture protection and still have them quick-remove.

Here's recommendation for y'all to bullet proof them.  

1) Solder a female 1/4", non-insulated disconnect to the male terminals, with short (6"? YBYC) pigtail to a quality, tinned, sealing, male quick connect (I use FTZ terminals nearly exclusively on my harness/panel/engine harness rewires.)

2) Ensure it's soldered correctly so to NOT create a work-hardening stress point on the pigtail, or have someone who knows how to solder do it.

3) Put a shrink tubing bend relief in front of the soldered connector if necessary.

4) Adhesive-heat-shrink the soldered terminal to the male on the solenoid/pump/oil switch/whatever.

The new quality quick disconnect will give you a lifetime of service and no corrosion, and no ends dangling in the bilge.

All these connections should, by rights, be screw post terminals, not slip-ons!  But then again, a farmer is used to constant maintenance/repairs, and not all that worried about channels (except staying within his plowed furrows.)   


Ken

PS.I tried a bullet list and it just ends up as garbage -- any guru clue as to how to make that work on these posts?