Socket for tightening keel bolts

[billandalita]

To add to Bob Kuba's excellent WIKI article on keel bolts, you can now buy a 1 1/8" 6 point extra deep socket - 1/2" drive to tighten keel bolts.  Cost is about $21 before shipping.  It is the Grey Pneumatic 2036XD which is about 4.25 inches deep.  A lot cheaper than the Snap-on socket mentioned in the WIKI article.  Tried it for fit today, and it will do the job nicely when I haul out this April.  Will also be replacing two of the 1 3/4 washers that back up the nuts on the keel bolts since they look corroded.  Bill

Bob's wiki is under Maintenance, here:  http://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Keel_Bolts_-_Inspecting_Tightening

Link added in wiki to this source.    Stu  2/20/13

[Indian Falls]

A 4.25'' deep socket would not have been enough for my keel bolts.   You may want to save yourself some time pulling those washers... it's not likely they're corroded, even if they were submerged at all times.   Unless they are not Stainless Steel.  Since my boat had water coming up through the keel bolt holes entering at the "smile" zone, I found that there are Carbon Steel lifting points cast into the lead of the keel, ideally for construction and handling.  I had rust streaks at the cracks at the front of the keel and no one could explain why.  This is detailed in my post "rebedding the keel" from last year.  (sorry too lazy to dig the link out ;-)   Other than that, with my keel bolts and washers always wet, I had no.. zero.. stainless corrosion, but I had rusty residue in the bilge now and then.

I'm sure it makes a difference but we are in fresh water in Lake Ontario.  

[Here's the link- Stu:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6842.0.html]

[Jim Hardesty]

4 1/4 wouldn't have been deep enough for my studs.  I bought a regular deep socket.  Cut it in half (taking care to keep the cut square) used an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel.  Cut a short length of 1" steel pipe (about 1 1/2 long).  Assembled and held it all in square with a bolt (or may be threaded rod), fender washers, nuts.  Passed through the square drive.  Then a friend welded.  Since it was all well located, the welding was simple.  Looks a bit crude.  Works well.  Also put cut a piece of thin (1/16) flexible plastic rolled it up and put it into the pipe section for thread protection.  My custom make socket is 5 1/4 long, just right for my keel studs.  If you do this get a 6 point socket and see that the hex is deep, some are not.
That's what I did.  If I could have bought one for $21 would have.
BTW was surprised at the amount I took up when I retorqued the studs.  Haven't checked them for the last 2 springs.  Time for me to check them this spring.  Ahh spring!
Jim

[Steve Sayian]

There are many grades of stainless steel, and depending on what grade is used may result in rust. 

I had rusty washers on my '99 when I bought it in Dec 2005 and replaced them with series 316, non magnetic in April 2006.  No more rust.

Steve

[Clay Greene]

The Grey Pneumatic socket fit perfectly on our keel bolts, all of which were 4 to 4 1/8 inch.  The Sears deep socket would have been too short.  Thanks for the excellent tip. 

[stevewitt1]

Hello All:

I measured my bolts and they are all of 4½" from the washer to the top.

Why hasn't anyone talked about simply using a crow's foot to torque?
I think that would be significantly less money and problem than extending a socket.
The equation for converting the figures is quite simple

Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com and www.warbirdsix.com

[stevewitt1]

This explains it

[stevewitt1]

Clay

Our hull numbers aren't very far apart.  My keel bolts measured a solid 4½" from the bottom of the nut to the top of the threads.  I find that difference quite a lot.  I wonder if my keel boss was shorted some material??

Steve

[Indian Falls]

100+ foot/lbs. is a lot for a crows foot.  My bet is you just round off your keel bolt nuts. 
For postage and 12 bucks I'll be happy to send you my keel socket and I'll make a new one. 
I bought a 12$ Napa deep well socket, cut it in half, welded a piece of 1'' 11ga tube between, takes ten minutes. 
( I have the unfair advantage of owning a laser tube cutting shop, so this is very easy for me)
You also need a 10'' extension for your torque wrench to get above the floor. 

If anybody else reading here wants one like this just let me know I'm happy to pay something back to this forum for all the value I've received being a member here.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : I agree with Dan that a crow foot just might round the nuts with that much torque.

My Snap On 5" socket has an inside depth of 4 1/4+".  Fleet 12 has used it to tighten all years of the MK I & II with no problem.  Surprisingly we have gotten up to 1/2 turn on many a keel nut!! 

[stevewitt1]

Dan

Thank you very much for the offer.  I sent you an email, so if it doesn't get to you please let me know her.  I sent it to your profile email addy.

As it is apparent, I'm far from a qualified engineer. 

Sincerely
Steve

visit us at www.ocontoyachtclub.com  and www.warbirdsix.com

[Indian Falls]

Ha! I'm no engineer either... once I thought I should have gone into engineering... but I'm much happier being able to actually do stuff. 

[billandalita]

Thought I would report on tightening keel bolts on my boat CLEO (2002) while on the hard the last two weeks.  Most bolts were tight at 106 ft-lbs, three moved about 1/8 to 1/4 turn.  The aft-most (centerline) keel bolt was inaccessable to my torque wrench, as was the keel bolt next to the sink counter.  Replaced one corroded washer, and bedded under the washer with polysulfide caulk to keep out a possible slow seep from the outside.  Basically the bolts seemed to be in good shape.
Bill

[Ron Hill]

Bill : When I made my keel nut tightening tool I included a 1/2" universal that attaches to the socket - to get at those few "hard to get at nuts"

a thought

[Indian Falls]

My socket is 5" tall and I use a 10'' extension, I can reach the last keel nut through the door in front of the hot water heater.  It's at just a slight angle but makes no difference.  You might have to put the socket on first then go through the door with the extension.