Clear plastic engine panel cover

[Indian Falls]

Mine is missing, probably for a long time.  The screw holes and gauge openings were sources of leaks in really rainy weather.  I looked for a replacement but, it just seems that most people go to home depot and get a slab of poly carbonate rectangle drill some holes and done deal. 

On the other hand, it may be possible nobody replaces this cover.   

Since I have my own laser shop, I made a cover for the engine panel in the same time it takes to drive to home depot find somebody to cut the plastic and then drill the holes...... ONLY mine is better.

I brought the bottom of it below the key switch, blower switch and start switch in hopes of thwarting as much water entry from sideways rain as possible.   See picture. 

If anybody wants one or two, let me know, (don't worry it will be really cheap!)

[Ted Pounds]

Very nice!    If I still had my boat I'd buy one in a heartbeat.

[Ron Hill]

Dan : Nice work. 
I did the same thing over 15years ago, also going all the way to the bottom.  I also have the hole cutouts for the key, blower, hi temp (press to test) and the starter.  To protect those switches you can get the individual "rubber" caps.  The key switch has a elongated cut in it and the starter cap is solid. The toggles have their own caps.

If you look in Projects you'll see I made a Sunbrella cover for that engine instrument cover as poly carbinate(Lexan) will turn yellow from the UV of the sun.  To hold the cover on I initially used Velcro, but then changed to snaps.  A few thoughts

[Indian Falls]

I almost like the sunbrella idea better.   But the rubber caps don't last long in the sun either. 
Like most things I do, this will evolve over time.  I can change the panel with the touch of a button, so it's no big deal to add or remove holes. 

This material is extruded acrylic (Plaskolite) you can find at the Ace hardware stores. 
A bit softer than cast acrylic (Plexiglass) and should hold up to sunlight better than Polycarbonate (Lexan)

I also plan on replacing the suedo stainless gauge panel that everything is mounted in with a real stainless panel.  I can permanently mark in black for all the text on it.  When I get a pic of the installation I'll post it.

I'd be glad to make more if anybody wants one or if you need something a little different send an accurate drawing, it's no problem.

[Ron Hill]

Dan : I put those rubber caps on the switches, starter and key switch back about 1992/3 and they are still nimble and not cracked.  They do keep the water out in a storm while you're underway.
The Lexan cover I made was much later and are only about 10 or 12 years old.  I used Lexan as the acrylic tends to crack.  The reason they have all lasted is I put silicone on the rubber caps annually and snap on the Sunbrella cover when the engine isn't running.  A thought

[yonar]

Dan,
Do you still have the drawings for Clear plastic engine panel cover? Can you still make one?
Thank you
Yonar

[Ron Hill]

Turk : I don't know if Dan is still in the panel making business.  
If he is, make sure that you send him a (to scale) picture so the clear pastic matches the holes for the switches on YOUR panel!  A thought

[lazybone]

Dan, you probably know already.
Overdrill the screw holes slighty.  Give it room to expand/contract and not crack the edge.

[Indian Falls]

Yep can still make those,  just need a photo to make sure yours is the same as mine.  If not the same, a detailed print of with measurements is quite necessary.  Pick a corner as a zero point and reference all center points of each feature from that in height and width.

I am also trying to find a reasonable cost supply of tinted plaskolite in 5/16 so I can replace all my Lewmar port windows. 

(I think you can email me direct without my having to post my address on the forum)

[Ken Juul]

Email can be sent using the small envelope in the bottom left corner of the screen.

[Ted Pounds]

Except Dan doesn't have an envelope in his post...

[Indian Falls]

I'll see if i can fix that fix that.