Cutless bearing set screws

[Roc]

Howdy All,
I plan on changing out the cutless bearing (have access to the removal tool) and was wondering if I need to apply loc-tite (or something to that affect) on the set screws.  My thought is yes, but below the waterline, don't know if loc-tite will hold anyway.  Is just tightening them as much as possible all that is needed?

Thanks!!!

[Ted Pounds]

Loctite does work below the waterline.  The Flex-O-Fold prop uses Loctite to hold it together.  I don't know if you need to use it, but I don't think it would hurt.

[Roc]

Ted,
Any particular Loc-tite product that Flex-o-Fold specifies??  There are many types.

Thanks

[Ted Pounds]

Sorry I don't recall.  It came with the prop in the bag of installation parts.  Checking the specs on the packages will probably tell you which one to use.  Or you can call Chuch a Flex-O-Fold (get the number online).  He's a nice guy and will tell you what they specify.

[Jeff Kaplan]

roc, if you are going to use loctite or equivalent, use the blue, med. strength type, which can be undone. the red type is for permanent applications...jeff

[Ron Hill]

Roc : Why would you even consider using Loc-tite??  As the name implies (even the mildest type) is going to be tough to ever back them out again - kind of like 5200!!

Change the cutless bearing, reinsert the set screws and make them "dimple" the bearing.  Then put on a coat of bottom paint - to keep the nastys off.  They will not back off with bottom paint over them and you'll be able to change the bearing easier in the future.  Be sure to put some grease/lanacoat on the set screw threads as the stainless set screws are going into bronze(dissimilar metal).  A thought.   

[Stu Jackson]

Came across this today on co.com, re cutless bearings and PSS shaft seals:

http://www.acephalous.net/stern_seal.htm

Posted here because it's the latest cutless bearing question and a search on cb's or PSS will get you here.

Seems he's a well documented C34 owner that we haven't seen here.  His hull #420 was last a member in 1988!

[Ron Hill]

A couple of things to consider before you take on the projects in the site that Stu mentions above.

1.  Do not put complete faith in you tacometer reading until you check it against a mechanical tac!!  The dip switch settings could be set wrong and/or the alternator pulley might be differant (from the original) which requires differant settings to get the tac reading correctly.  Check your tac (signal from the alternator) against a mechanical tac to get the correct engine RPMs.  There are MANY posts and at least two Mainsheet articles on this topic!!
2.  I would not install a differant 3 bladed prop with wider blades than "sailor" prop.  You could be overloading the engine, especially if the pitch is at or more than 9 inches.  Also the wider blades will create more drag while under sail.
3.  The "rule of thumb" distance for the prop behind the strut is "one shaft diameter" or 1 inch for a C34.  The more that distance is increased the larger the moment, placing greater wear on the cutless bearing.  So make sure that your "cutter" will operate in a distance of 1 inch or less.  To reduce the cutless wear I moved my prop to only 3/4" aft of the strut.

A few thoughts.   

[tonywright]

I also wonder why Acephalous thought it necessary to install a high speed shaft seal (the vent with tubing is only recommended for speeds of 12 knots plus). Just how fast is the new propeller supposed to make a C34? 

[John Langford]

I don't think that they sell the PSS shaft seal without the tubing arrangement anymore. Perhaps too many people forgot to burp the seal and burnt out the simpler version.

[tonywright]

Hmmm,  they still seem to sell both on the web site: http://www.shaftseal.com/the-two-types-of-pss-shaft-seal.html ??