prepurchase sail survey

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Terry Forshier

I am going tomorrow for a sea trial with the surveyor on the 34 I am very close to purchasing. Any tips on what to look for as this will be my chance to see how things work. Terry in Naples

Stu Jackson

Terry,

There was a recent post that covered a lot: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2770.0  Many of the issues in that thread and those references apply to a sea trial.

As far as the sea trial, enjoy the ride, but don't get too overwhelmed.  Take it step by step, from taking sail covers off to replacing them.  Engine start sequence, how does the battery switch work?  Since you said you've done a survey already, I assume you know if the wiring harness has been replaced, and to look for a voltmeter on the cockpit contorl panel.  Since you haven't said what year the boat is, it's hard to get specific, which is why we ask for that kind of info in questions.

From the referenced post, check all the winches.

Learn how the reefing system works.  Do it, really, not just talk it through.

Find out if the furler is a furler or a reefer for the headsail.

How do all the blocks work: is the mainsheet clear and free-running, are the jib sheets fairled, do all the lines make sense to you?

How's the bilge before and after sail?

Do all the instruments work?

Have a great trip and good luck.

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Stu Jackson

Terry

Just realized that the referenced post above was to your earlier request for a 1988 boat, and the replies remain reasonable.

Sorry for the repetition. 
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Rick Johnson

Rick Johnson, #1110, 1990, s/v Godspeed, Lake Travis, TX

RV61

Take the list that Steve and others have posted in your previous thread with you to check off as you go thru the boat. In addition to that list I would check on
1. Refrigeration works if applicalbe
2. VHF Radio works
3. Take binoculars to check out the Sails if you are going to fly them.
4. Look for water stains inside the boat to see if there is or has been leaking issues typically around stanchions , chain plate and ports.

5 . Inspect cradle and any winter covering if applicable.
6. Inspect any safety items that may be included such as life Jackets, Fire Extinguisher dates, Flare gun, flare etc.
7. Both the electrical and manual bildge pump. Be sure to have the handle for the manual pump and know where it is.
8. Make sure you know where the emergancey tiller is located and how it works.
9. Check the cowel vents to see if they open and close.
10. Check stove and oven if applicable.

With all the lists you wili know what you are buying. Enjoy the sail!!
Yes the lists are extensive and I was overwelmed with the the process but can say after buying a neglected 1986 four years ago that has had most of the issues one could have I would buy it again due to its comfort, performance , parts availability and most importantly all the readily available information here in this website to repair and maintain. Actually once we did all the surveying, trial and pricing this website clinched it for me. Once you understand the condition and needed work you can evaluate what you should pay for the boat. Bristol price or Needs work price.
When I purchased the Interlude the first investment was to join the association for the Tech Notes and it is still the best investment made as I learned that even this technically challanged sailor could fix the issues. 
Have fun. Hope you have found the one.   
   
Rick V
Interlude
1986 Hull #237
Lake Erie

Terry Forshier

Thank you for the tips, I am in Naples Florida and this is 1988 Catalina 34 is owned by one of my neighbors. It has spent the last 2 nights at my dock so I have been able to go over it at my leisure. It has some "Wilma" damage but looks new inside. The wind insturments at the mast head were damaged and some replaced. The antenna was blown off and the running lights and anchor light combo at the top is "off" not off the boat but twisted some so the red is forward the green behind. (some wind huh?) The lines are worn, the mainsail is a stack pack and the top of the sail sticks out and the sun has eaten the "red covering" at the top of the sail. The dodger and bimini need restiched or new canvas.
Most systems seem to work but tomorrow the surveyor will be with us to test the radar, GPS, bilges, the Diesel, etc etc. so we shall see.
I owned an O'Day 30 for the past 15 years (centerboard model) and am anxious to see how the bigger, stiffer boat with a wing will sail. Tomorrow is predicted 10 to 15 from the east with 1 to 2 foot seas, blue skies about 80 degrees.
Ahhh, it is a wonderful world at times. All things work out I may be the newest list member.  Terry in Naples

Stu Jackson

You can ask for more than that (10-15 from ANYWHERE works for us!!!!)   :clap

Good luck, sounds like you found a "keeper."

What's the hull #?
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Rick Johnson

Terry,  I bought my C34 with the help of Naples Yacht Sales (California) which was why I asked.  I moved up from a Catalina 30.  I got a fair price on my C34, but she lacked lots of systems and rigging/sails were getting long in the tooth.  I have to say I absolutely love my C34 and I think she handles much better then my C30.  She is fast and stable with lots of room.  The one thing I have also found is you need to look everywhere.  Last weekend I looked behind the bulkheads in the aft-cabin, it appears that there had been an electrical fire at some point.  Everything looks like it was repaired but it was still a shock.  The PO said nothing about it and the survey didn't catch it! I looked behind the engine control panel and found the QA sticker dated 1996, since the boat is a 1990 I can safely say that panel has been replaced.  Take a flash light and look everywhere you can, under, behind, everywhere....  

Cheers
Rick Johnson, #1110, 1990, s/v Godspeed, Lake Travis, TX

Terry Forshier

Sail was great today. the surveyor is an old "salt" from New England and went into every nook and cranny with a flashlight and didgital camera. There were some problems but nothing that I think is a deal breaker.
The diesel is original and has developed a water leak in the gasket holding the water pump. this has caused some rust on the engine and probably ruined the motor mounts on that side. A fuel line was kinked and there was an oil leak (small) coming from the top around one of the injectors. At full throttle the rpms topped out at 2500 and as we motored some they would slowly drop to 2300. The thought was that the fuel kink was inhibiting fuel and the rpm's. a mechanic will have to determine this.  (this is the 25xp Universal) what rpm's should it get with an original 3 blade prop.?
The other problems were a rip in the main, mast light, steeaming light, bimini and dodger repair. So really not bad at all.
opinoins??
Terry in Naples

Ron Hill

#9
Terry : After I saw Steve's list I wondered if I should put on my Life Jacket before I stepped on my own 1988 boat!!

You have to separate the differences between manufacturing problems and lack of maintenance.  The only items that I know of that were factory defects are the engine wiring harness, screen in the fuel pickup tube and a less than adequate rudder layup(weeping rudder).
On an 1 or an 18 year old boat you need to check everything!! Every switch, system, nook and cranny.
On your rpm decrease, there's a partial fuel starvation!  I'd look at the electric fuel pump, the filters and if there's a screen in the fuel pickup tube. Also look at the "kinked" fuel line.
I'm sure that you'll get a zillions suggestions, just filter that information.   :think
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

#10
FUEL PUMP:  see: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2515.0

Not a big deal.

WATER PUMP:  the seals do go.  Just replace the whole pump.  Do a search on pump -- you'll find it, unless you've read it before.  (I did the homework for the first part,  even Steven).
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."