Companionway hood

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Baysider

I went to visit my 1990 C34, which has been on its cradle for about a month, and discovered something concerning.  The sliding cover didn't slide smoothly.  On closer inspection, the cover was touching the deck above it midway port to starboard. So either the curve of the cover increased, or the curve of the deck became flatter.  I'm guessing it's the latter. I know the function of the side supports is to maintain side to side balance and not to support weight, but is it possible they were left so loose that the hull sagged?  This is the only explanation I can come up with and I want to correct the situation ASAP.  Thanks all for your advice.
1990 Standard Rig
Wing Keel
Hull 1011
Universal M-25XP
Safe Harbor Willsboro Marina
Lake Champlain, NY

Jim Hardesty

Fiberglass is flexible, some winters I have some doors that stick.  I'm sure the jack stands were correct.  I've seen marina's that don't bother to adjust the pads from year to year.  The right way is to loosen all the pads and set the boat on the keel with some weight on and then adjust the pads.  Check that there's no deformation of the hull. The pads shouldn't have much pressure on them, that's the reason for the course threads and short handles on the jack screws.  If it were me, I'd adjust the pads correctly myself one at a time, snug but not difficult to turn the jack screw handles.  May need to go around a few times to get it right.  But some boat yards may not permit owners to that, talk to them.  I like a little more pressure on the aft a little less on the bow.  That helps prevent Catalina smile.
Do a search here for "cradle" "catalina smile" etc. 
Also some pictures would help.  Include where the blocking is under the keel.  Your boat information would help, wing keel? model?   It's good to put that in your signature.
If the keel is blocked/balanced correctly and the pads are adjusted correctly, I would not worry about doors and hatches not being as they are when the boat is floating.  Think of engine alignment, that needs to be completed when the boat has been floating for a while.
Jim

Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Stu Jackson

Jim's idea would be a definite first step.

Here's some "how its built" info:

Sliding Hatch Teak Removal 101  https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7191.0.html
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

waughoo

I would say as others have, that the boat has slightly changed shape due to the way it is blocked in the cradle.  My 1991 had this problem but it was not possible to resolve without adjustments to the sea hood.  In my case, the deck developed a concave bend and as the hatch slid on this vend it would raise up and catch the sea hood.  I built shims out of starboard that were about 1/4 at the aft and tapered to zero at the fore end.  This raised up the sea hood enough to provide the clearance needed to make the hatch slide smoothly. 

My guess is that yours won't need that work done as it should resolve itself when it is floating again.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Ron Hill

Bay : I agree with Jim and Alex.  It's the blocking that has warped the hull. I'll guess that the jackstands are NOT at a bulkhead!!   
I wouldn't do anything drastic until you're back in the water for a few days!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Baysider

Thank you all for your comments and help.  The marina staff does a good job of setting and adjusting the boat on its cradle but I'll be at the marina in a few days and will check the pads.  Ron, are you saying that the pads should be under the bulkheads?  That sounds right in terms of distributing forces, but I'm not sure the cradle was built to that standard.  Once again, I'll check.  I'll post some pictures.
1990 Standard Rig
Wing Keel
Hull 1011
Universal M-25XP
Safe Harbor Willsboro Marina
Lake Champlain, NY

Jim Hardesty

QuoteThat sounds right in terms of distributing forces, but I'm not sure the cradle was built to that standard.

If you search around this site I think you will find the dimensions from the factory.  May be in your owners manual.  Start with "cradle dimensions"  do use the "
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Baysider

1990 Standard Rig
Wing Keel
Hull 1011
Universal M-25XP
Safe Harbor Willsboro Marina
Lake Champlain, NY

ewengstrom

I've added thin Delrin strips under the sliding hatch to help it slide easier and they do a nice job. The only catch is that I noticed the sliding hatch will sometimes rub against the teak strip on the spray hood when opening and closing it...other times it doesn't rub at all. The only variable is the weather, I suspect the hood and hatch change shape slightly with heating and cooling and since the boat is always in the water year round, the shape of the boat itself doesn't change much.
I do like Alex's solution of tapered shims under the spray hood. The rubbing isn't bad enough to warrant immediate remedy, but that's a very good solution to a minor problem.
Eric Wengstrom
s/v Ohana
Colonial Beach, Virginia
1988 Catalina 34 MKI TR/WK
Hull #564
Universal M25XP
Rocna 15

Ron Hill

Bay : Look in your owners manual on page 5.2 and you'll find the cradle diminutions.  I assume that you have a Catalina cradle?? Also make sure that you C34 wasn't put in the cradle backwards!!

If you look at that page 5.2 you'll see that the pads are at a bulkhead!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788