Best penetrating oils and cable lubricants in a salt environment?

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Porchhound

I've tried liquid wrench on the sheave block and those four pan head bolts on the binnacle with no luck, despite several days of spraying and trying to loosen them. The pan head bolts are extremely long, according to the Edson diagram and I doubt they have ever been removed.

Regarding cable lubricants, I've seen a hodgepodge of videos with home-made concoctions, plus some use KROLL oil. If I can't get the compass housing off the binnacle I'm hoping to find a sway to lubricate the cables with a spray. Doesn't sound ideal but if I mess around with this boat any longer I'm going to lose the summer here in the PNW.
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

Stu Jackson

My compass housing easily comes off by simply twisting it counterclockwise.  No screws involved.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Porch : As Stu said there are NO Screws/Bolts holding the compass onto the binnacle - it is a compression slide in of the compass into that fitting.  I just twist mine off with my hands.  Maybe you need to try a strap wrench??

Once the compass is OFF be careful about spraying any oily substance about - because if you get oil on the wheel brake system it will NEVER be able to work properly!!!

Not too sure about what "sheave block and 4 bolts you are talking about???

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Steve Hansen

Had my compass rebuilt in Annapolis 2 winters ago. As others have said , mine also lifted twisted off.this revealed a bracket mounted with 4 long bolts seized quite heavily. Bought a large slotted screwdriver with a square shaft. The fit was snug. Used full body weight on screwdriver and a friend turned shaft with a wrench. Carefully and with heavy pressure got them out. Replaced with new ss Philips with anti seize.  Also replaced steering cables while I was at it. Good luck! BTW They didn't break free, just moved incrementally an eighth of a turn at a time, Major PIA
Steve Hansen
Georgia Peach 1987 #349
Tall Rig/ Wing Keel
Universal M25XP

Porchhound

Let me clarify with a photo. The compass comes off easily, but the frame it is mounted to has four bolts which, when removed, give me better access to the cables. The videos I watched re replacing cables removed that compass frame.
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

Ron Hill

Porch : It looks to me like you've got the "Rubber Ducky" original Edson Shifters..  The throttle is OK, but the full length original transmission is dangerous!!

A thought
 
Ron, Apache #788

Porchhound

Ron, I believe the dangerous part. Easy to miss neutral when shifting out of reverse and bang, you're in forward. I'll check with Edson to see how many grandchildren I'll need to sell to upgrade. I don't do anything in a hurry when I'm maneuvering, but I can imagine scenarios when smooth shifting would be critical.
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

Jim Hardesty


QuoteI've tried liquid wrench on the sheave block and those four pan head bolts on the binnacle with no luck, despite several days of spraying and trying to loosen them. The pan head bolts are extremely long, according to the Edson diagram and I doubt they have ever been removed.

I've used an impact screwdriver for years on motorcycles and a few times on boats.  The shock from the impact loosens the bond from dissimilar metals.  That would be my first go-to after kroil or PB blaster.   I think most auto and motorcycle shops would have them.  If not Harbor Freight

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html?utm_source=go&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=shortener&cid=go_social

Takes a little technique to use, make sure you have it set to remove, a little presure trying to unscrew, then hit it firmly.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Stu Jackson

Another technique with impact screwdrivers is to hit it once or twice in the tightening direction, and then back it off. 

The impact screwdriver I bought decades ago has been extremely useful.  It really helped on the screws in the mast and boom.

Jim's right - you need to learn how to identify tight and reverse directions, it's not all that easy on my driver and I believe most all of them are built pretty much the same.  The manufacturers may have gotten better at this in the last 20 years!  :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Porch : I believe that you need some oil inside the shifter cable.  What you need to try is some Liquid Wrench or Blaster and squirt it down the solid cable to help lub between the solid wire that the inside of the cable jacket. Squirt/drip some oil then work the shifter and keep doing that until it operates smoothly.  Once it smooths out I'd then drip in some 3:1 light oil.

A few thoughts .
Ron, Apache #788

Ed Shankle

I had the same issue 2 yrs ago. Jammed at the binnacle but shifted smoothly at the transmission lever. I couldn't get those bolts out mainly I think due to the off angle to reach the bolt heads. Turned it over to the boatyard and they of course were able to remove the bolts. They replaced the cable and smoothed out the cable run, which they thought had some sharp turns. Works fine now. Maybe over time those sharp turns created some resistance? Who knows? At least it works fine now and doesn't create a panic at the helm when trying to maneuver!

Regards,
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

Porchhound

Thanks, Ed! That is exactly what if feels like...metal on metal. How many hours involved in that fix?
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

Jon W

Ed wrote "They replaced the cable, and smoothed out the run which they thought had some sharp turns". Before spending time, money, and using up your annual budget of "MF's and FU's" fighting stubborn fasteners in hard to reach places :D, check the cable run for sharp bends/tight turns. You might get lucky.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Porchhound

Thanks, Ed. I've inspected the run and it looks good, sweeping turns and no kinks. I loosened the cable clamp from the binnacle, ran it through shifts several times and no bueno even after I tightened it back up.
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

Ed Shankle

I'll have to look back at invoices to see what it cost and the time spent by the yard crew. Because you're still experiencing it after checking the cable run, I'd be inclined to think the internal wire is getting snagged in the sheath. Ok for the pull from the tranny lever, but catching on the push from the binnacle lever. Even though the run looks ok, after yrs of friction, internally it could create a catch. When my mechanic felt the resistance, it was "yep, need to replace the cable". At 32 yrs old at time, I guess I got my money's worth!
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA