Messages

I replaced the dodger 5 seasons ago, was told that Strataglas was the preferred, and more expensive, material.  It has held up well and is still as clear as new, but it does have some scratches.  I've been on boats with the stiff polycarbonate.  It is nice but is very stiff and more difficult to handle. I was told it's very hard to sew. I will consider it if I ever need to replace the Strataglas on the windshield over the cutouts for the lines.
I think you need to evaluate the canvas on the dodger.  If it's very good, that is several seasons left, Strataglas or the polycarbonate, if it's worn, only a couple of seasons left, go with the less expensive.
That's my 2cents,
Jim
Another thought, On hot days it's nice to open up the center window and enjoy the breeze.  You may want to consider adding that to canvas fix.

I would try ammonia and a good rinse.  Try it on a small area first.  Don't be surprised by a dull surface afterwards, it's the wax that was striped. Will need a good buffing after.
Finish First has quite a following in our club.  The first application is a little tricky but after that it's a wipe on product.  I haven't gone to this, but am considering.
https://finishfirstpolish.com/product-category/marine/
Jim

I installed one on my previous boat, the head had no ventilation, that was 25 years ago I'm sure the batteries work better now.  I was happy with the solar vent for this application.
I don't think yours is original.  Was added or a dorade vent was replaced with the solar vent. 
If the plastic housing is in good shape it may be worth it to disassemble the unit and replace the batteries.  They may be soldered in.
Hope that helps,
Jim
 

My mast is deck stepped with a compression post(2001 mkII).

So is Shamrock.  Don't remember exactly where, but I do remember seeing somewhere on Shamrock's mast information is etched into the aluminum, at least the hull number, I think more.
Jim

Pete,
I've had good and easy results using plastic wall anchors in situations like this.  Another way was to use a dab of epoxy putty, the stuff that comes in 2 colors to be kneaded together, on the back side of the hole and redrill for the existing screws.
On a separate note, when reinstalling self taping screws it's good to start with screwing in the wrong direction, when you feel where the threads pass the start, sort of a click, then turn the right direction.  The purpose is to put the screw into the threads that have already been made and not make a second thread.
Hope that helps,
Jim 
Here is just one brand.  It's easy to find in most hardware stores or Amazon.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-All-Purpose-2-oz-Epoxy-Putty-1999131/206156392?irgwc=1&cm_mmc=afl-ir-2003851-1420157-bing&clickid=z47XqZSf3xyPWL4X4a3bUUkeUkHWAOV0EWnR280

The coolant in the bilge is there in the spring after winter.  None in the bilge during the season.  I've asked around and apparently its a known issue.  I guess over the hard winters the hoses/engine contract, and you get a small drip.  Over 6 months, and it being non freezing fluid it accumulates.

I go over the engine every spring and make sure the hose clamps are snug. Never an issue during the season.  It's about 2 cups.

Shamrock, a 2001, in 20 seasons has never lost any coolant into the bilge, summer or winter (that's Erie Pa winters).  2 cups isn't much, but it isn't normal.  If it were me, I'd look for the leak before it got to be a real problem.  Possible a crack in the expansion tank.  Does the cooling system hold pressure?
Jim

Rather than enlarging the holes have you considered opening up the scuppers, it's fairly common on other makes of boats. Cutting 45 degree angles into the scupper railing to the bottom of the hole would do it. That eliminates clogs and drains the deck much more quickly. You'd have to finish the cut ends of course but you'll have to do that to the enlarged holes as well.

That's the way my MKll is made.  I like the idea of drilling out the holes and installing a short pipe/tube to drain the water away from the hull.  That should reduce the black streaks from deck water running down the hull.  Somewhere that idea is posted here.  If you use a hole saw it's best to plug the old hole with a wood plug before drilling so the pilot drill on the hole saw works and the hole saw doesn't walk.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Thanks to everyone.  I should have know that information would be here.  Good information and a fine start for me.
Jim

I've been thinking about batteries and electrical use.  I'm starting an energy audit, that is a list of my 12 volt power users and their amp/hour draw. 
Has anyone done an energy audit?  If so please share and please share how you arrived at your numbers.
As I'm most concerned about use at anchor my list will include LED anchor light, fridge, Keurig coffee maker, cabin fans, possibly Engel freezer and more as I think about it.
Thanks,
Jim

I am looking into new sails

The sailmaker should need the P and E (luft and foot) measurements to quote a sail.  If it's a local loft they should measure the actual dimensions of the boat.  If not I'd recommend you take the measurements and not depend on factory or what somebody else's boat uses.  Never can tell what has happened over the years.  It's easy to do, all you need is a 50 foot tape measure.
Jim
 

How so you cut the bands...?

Big scissors or slip a thin piece of wood under the bands and use a knife. They cut easy enough if they are plastic as mine were.
Jim

Sorry, I should have been more specific.  Did you attach the straps themselves to the tray or where they wrapped around the tray and the tank and then cinched down?

They wrapped around the tray, same as the original banding straps.  That's the reason for pulling a tracer line with the old banding straps then used the tracer to pull the hold-down strap thru.
Jim

Ok.. I think I get it.  How did you secure the ends of the straps?

Rolled them up, sort of more liked folded, then secured with cable ties.
Jim

How did you attach the rachet straps?

When I pulled the old banding straps I taped a tracer line and pulled it through.  I didn't use rachet straps, used cam lock straps and pulled tight.  The strap had the cam lock on one side and only one strap that followed the path of the original banding straps the cam lock was on top and the extra length of the strap was secured.  Was simpler to do then explain. 
Jim

I don't have a picture, but there are a couple of black straps that hold the tank to the tray, and I'm not sure how you remove them.

They are banding straps.  Only way is to cut them off. Sounds brutal but it's the only way. If you have some pull on a loading dock you may be able to borrow a tool and the material to replace them. I replaced them with Harbor Freight hold down straps.  Something like this but with only one strap and no hooks.  Has worked for many seasons and a lot of sailing.
https://www.harborfreight.com/set-of-two-6-ft-cam-buckle-tie-downs-94012.html

Jim