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I have replaced the water pump on my M35 B with an Oberdorfer for ease of impeller change.  There was no problem with the Sherwood when I did this.  Included are 2 impeller kits and a quick disconnect assembly for the hose to make belt changes easier.
All for $275 plus freight.
contact Kent at kjoverbeck@epbfi.comhttp://c34.org/bbs/Smileys/default/icon_clap.gif

Tom,  I'm starting a new thread on this.  I'm curious what other experience.
My RPM and speed, in flat water (3 blade prop), clean bottom and loaded for cruising, follows.

1500 / 4.9 MPH

1800 / 6.0 MPH

2000 / 6.4 MPH

2200 / 7.0 MPH

2500 / 7.6 MPH

I generally cruise at 2200 and use .6 GPH of fuel.  Fuel usage drops to less than .4 GPH at 1800 and 3.5 at 1500.

What do the rest of you guys get?

Bee in the bowl, Primary filter problem

While doing the 6500-mile "Great Loop", one of the biggest pains in the butt was changing the primary fuel filter.  Carina is a 2001 MKII and the spin off filter is surrounded by the raw water hose and various throttle and transmission cables making it difficult to remove without making a mess.  I'm sure many have the same problem.  
I decided to replace the spin off with a top loading Racor 500 turbine series before we started our next extended cruise.  I made the change but could not get fuel to flow through the filter to fill the secondary filter.  If I manually filled the secondary, the engine would run for a short time then quit.  I repeated this procedure several times with the same results and decided to put my old filter back on.  When I did, all was good.  
I took the filter home, pressurized it and found no air leaks.  Mike, at Racor support, was patient but had no answers.  He wanted me to try it again as this is no rocket science.
I got the filter from the basement and was putting it in the back of the truck when I saw a BEE in the bowl!!  I must have dislodged it when I pressurized the unit.  I disassembled the filter, removed the bee, installed the new filter once again and everything worked as it should.  I don't know when or how the bee-yellow jacket got in there but I am extremely glad to be able to have the top loading filter working.  It is not only easier, but the paper filters cost about 1/3 of the spin on filters.

I now will tape all hoses, etc while work is in progress.  Has anybody encountered this before?

I need to add a 12-volt outlet to provide power (less than 4 amps) for an Engel refrigerator.  The Engel will sit on the floor of the entrance to the aft cabin.  I would like to wire the outlet to the 20 amp breaker by the fuel pump as it would take less than 2' of wire.  If properly fused, is there any problem in doing this?

Thanks, Kent 

At what point does overfilling become a problem.  At times I end up 1/4 " above the full mark on the dipstick.  In the past I have pumped some oil out to correct the level, but I wonder if this is necessary for what seems to be a very small overage.  My motor is a M35B and I can never get much more than 3 1/2 quarts out using the hose connected to the oil pan drain at what seems to be the low point.  The engine is hot, the filler cap off and I can hear sucking air.  Is there oil hiding out in my engine?

As I mentioned in my previous post, we have just completed the "Great Loop".  It took 13 months and covered around 6500 miles.  Before we left on the trip I was going to buy a new anchor.  The problem was just what it was going to be.  I will not rehash all of the anchor discussion on the forum as it is readily available but just report on what we did.  I liked the Rocna but was concerned about quality.  Shortly before our trip Rocna changed their warranty to cover not just breakage but included bending if the anchor was sized to their recommendations.  That swayed me over.  I purchased a Rocna 15 (33#).  My rode is 50 ' of 5/16 G-4 chain and 250' of 5/8" 8 strand plaited nylon.  I got 250' so I could go back and drop a stern anchor if needed.
We anchored many times in a great variety of conditions and bottoms.  We had hard sand, soft sand, soft and hard mud, clay, grass and some weeds and at times a gravel mix of the above.  We had 6-8' tidal ranges along with the current and reverses that come with the tides, and sustained winds of over 60 MPH three times, conditions that can be very challenging when anchoring.  We never used a second anchor, not even when in strong current reverses.  The Rocna set first time, every time, very quickly and we never moved after that.  There was no problem when we had a wind or current shift as it seemed to reset immediately.  The biggest problem was getting all the mud etc. off.  I was evident the entire anchor was buried as the roll bar was covered. 
I guess it's obvious that I like the anchor.  That being said, I also have a 33# original Bruce that has given good service. I also have a 22# Delta fast set and a Fortress FX 11 that I have used on my Seaward 26 very satisfactorily.  I was in the company of a great variety of boats with various anchors and rarely saw anyone have serious problems they couldn't resolve.
I know there is more than one good anchor, but right now, after this trip, I'm a Rocna fan.
I also want to report that the 8 strand plaited rode was awesome.  It fell easily into the locker with no coiling or twisting and was very easy to handle.  Well worth the extra cost.

We completed the "Great Loop" on October 14th after 13 months and around 6500 miles.  Along the way our Maxwell 800 windlass with capstan, became more and more difficult to use.  I had a very hard time getting the clutch nut tight enough to keep it from slipping.  I rebuilt it with parts suggested by Maxwell but that did not seem to help much.  By the end of the trip I had resorted to using a longer winch handle to get the needed leverage.  When I arrived home, I again contacted Maxwell.  They tried to help but could not come up with a cure.
I could not help but think that there had to be a simple solution as this is not rocket science.  Then, as I again looked at the exploded assembly diagram, the light bulb in my head lit up.  We had all been focusing on the clutch cone and lower chain wheel.  This was not the problem area!  The problem was that the Clutch nut was bottoming out on the threads on the shaft before the clutch was fully tightened.  I added a washer below the clutch nut and the problem was solved.  I have no Idea why the problem developed but I am very glad to have resolved it.
I hope this info will help others.

Kent
2004 MKII Carina

Now that Blue Heron Marine is no longer in business making the Helmseat, does anyone have an alternative solution for actually sitting comfortably at the helm when motoring?

We are looking for a used helm seat made by Blue Heron Marine to fit a 2001 Catalina 34 MKII. We're halfway through the Loop, and a comfortable seat for the motoring parts would be helpful.

We have a 2001 MKII.  Our microwave has died.  It is installed in the middle cabinet above the stove.  We can't find a replacement that will fit, all are too big.   HELP!!

Kent

I had planned to replace the original impeller with the Globe product.  However there were washers on the front and back of the original impeller that wont fit into the recesses on the globe.  The pump diagram doesn't show these washers.  Are they really necessary?

I am sure it is time for us to renew.  Just what is the proper procedure.  All I can find is info for new members.

Thanks, Kent

While going over my maintenance records I noticed that the fuel bracket had never been changed.  The next time I was on the boat I checked it our and sure enough it had developed a crack.  I contacted Joe Joyce at Westerbeke and had a new one in a matter of days.  For a good write up, search "fuel filter bracket" and check out the post by Steve Sayian.

I wanted to be sure Carina had a clean tank before we started our Great Loop Cruise.  As there was no clean out port, I decided to make one.  I first had to gain access to the top of the tank so I installed a hatch in the bottom of the lazerett.  I contacted Ezell MFG who (we thought) made the tank for advice on the actual port.  They sold me a disc of 1/4" aluminum with 8  ¼" holes drilled around the edge and a cork gasket.  Now all I had to do was cut the 4" hole in the top of the tank.  As it turned out, they thought I had an aluminum tank but mine is polyethylene made by a previous vender no longer in business.  They told me to go ahead but use self-tapping sheetmetal screws instead of bolts.  I was concerned about the screws holding but decided to continue.  I also decided to pre drill a smaller 9/64" hole and use regular sheetmetal screws thinking it would hold better in the poly.
Well, I finally got the nerve to cut the hole.  It didn't take but 1/2 a jug of Captain Morgan!  The polyethylene tank was much harder and thicker (1/4") than expected.  The good thing about that was the 1/4" sheetmetal screws hold great.  I can't strip them out by hand.  I drilled out a 1 1/4" hole in the disc and a buddy welded on a "1/2 coupling" of 1" aluminum.  The PVC plug finishes it off.  I put Permatex 2 gasket sealer between the gasket and tank and on the end of the screws.  Now, I can check fuel tank bottom samples and also check the fuel level with a gage stick marked at 5-gallon intervals, as my fuel gage was stuck in the full position.   If I want to do a serious clean out, just remove 8 screws and take the plate off.
I was relieved and very surprised to find no water and almost no debris after I pumped 24 gallons of fuel out and through a Baja type filter.  The tank had never been cleaned in 11 years.  I shined a light into the tank and could see that the bottom was very clean.  I'm a happy boat owner!

Hope this info is helpful,

Kent

We bought "Carina" a 2001 MKII, with the intention of completing the "Great Loop" of the Eastern U.S.  After joining the C-34 Assoc. I was kind of overwhelmed as to all of the things I needed to check on the boat.  However I started on the "bucket list" one at a time.  I can't thank this forum enough for its advice.  So far, I have changed out the raw water pump to the Oberdorfer to easily be able change the impeller.  I know this seems to be an issue with some but I have run 200 miles in 88-degree water and the temp stays around 165 degrees @ 1800 RPM.  When I gave it full throttle @3200 the temp went to 180 degrees and no more, so I am happy with the new pump.  I've installed an access panel to the starboard side of the engine compartment and then changed all the filters, checked the heat exchanger and put in a new anode and changed the Transmission fluid (thanks for the turkey baster tip).  The fan belt was shedding rubber and I discovered the pivot bolt didn't have a long enough shoulder and the alternator was riding on the threaded part, which is a smaller diameter. This allowed it to "cock over" to one side making it out of alignment.  I bought a 5" bolt with a long shoulder, cut it off, threaded the end and that solved the problem.  The anchor winch calls for 5/16" G4 chain and 5/8" braided line.  I had 80' of 1/4" chain and 5/8 three strand that was specifically not recommended and totally unusable.  I replaced that with 50' of 5/16" and 250' of 5/8 braided line. 
Instead of adding a 12-volt access in the cockpit, I bought a LED Spotlight that works for 51/2 hours on four C cell batteries.  It's the Streamlight Waypoint that was recommended in Practical Sailor.  It's an awesome little light!  I also decided to just keep a small battery available to run my backup chartplotter.
As we will have two dogs with us, Jane wanted me to make slipcovers for all the cushions so I have been busy with my little Sailrite machine.  I only have two seat cushions left to do.
My next project is to clean out the fuel tank but that will deserves a post of it's own.
I have had very disappointing problems with AB Marine and Auto Prop, but this also deserves a post of it's own. 
Both issues will follow soon.


Thanks to all for your responses,

Kent

I would like to install some 12 volt outlets in the cockpit.  One to power a GPS/chartplotter backup and another to power  a spotlight or other equipment.  Any suggestions as to just where to put them?

Thanks, Kent

   We just completed a 150 mile trip on the TN river from Chattanooga, upstream to Watts Bar Lake and back.  I mostly ran around 1800 RPM (slower boats were in the group)but jacked it up to 2500 for a while to see how the new pump would perform.  The lake water temp was in the high 80's.  The water temp in the engine stayed at a consistant 170 degrees.  I was a happy camper and am glad I made the change.
   I filled up with fuel (Fuel spilled out of the vent), proceeded to do the trip and noticed the fuel gauge seemed to be stuck on "full".  There was no change at the end of the trip even though I used about 9 gallons. 
Any explanations or suggestions would be appreciated.

We are relatively new to the group and would like to express our thanks to the guys that make this website possible.  It has been a great assistance in learning about our new, to us, boat.  We plan to depart Oct. 2012 for the Gulf Coast and then possibly do the Loop.

Kent

HI,  We recently purchased our 2001 C-34MKII and have been delighted with it.  We have it in Chattanooga, TN but plan to cruise the Gulf Coast in the future.  There was one issue that kept bothering me and that was the crazy design of the Sherwood pump making it a real chore just to check the impeller.  I was delighted to see the article by Randy and Nile and ordered the Oberdorfer.  I have the M35 B engine but the modifications were fairly simple and straightforward.  I also used a paper rubbing to place the new bolt hole.  The old one also needs to be enlarged a little.  If you look closely at the picture they posted (Tech Wiki, Engine, last article)you can see it.  My installation is complete and all works as it should so far.  The impeller on the Oberdorfer is smaller but it seems to be putting out a substantial amount of water.  I will keep a close watch on the temperature later in the Spring when it warms up.

Thanks again to Randy and Nile,

Kent Overbeck

"Carina"