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Author Topic: Installation of Raritan PHII head w/Flix  (Read 5760 times)
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foursailing
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« on: July 15, 2007, 09:18:52 PM »

Stu - A while back you had asked for pictures of my Raritan PHII head installation to confirm that it does in fact fit.  Sorry for the delay, but as per the attached, the head does fit nicely.

This was part of my over all sanitation system replacement - new hoses (white odor safe), new tank and fittings from Catalina(best price).  As per your suggestion, I added a shut off valve between the tank and macerator to facilitate pump repairs.

I've been using the system for over a month and everything works great.  I highly recommend the Raritan PHII


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« Last Edit: April 14, 2009, 01:56:52 PM by Stu Jackson » Logged

Bill Dwyer
#1446, 1999
RICOCHET, Keyport NJ
Stu Jackson
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« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2007, 09:26:05 PM »

Bill, thanks so much.  Of course, we just ordered a new (inexpensive) Head Mate, which works for us.  I remember John Langford had actually asked that question.  I couldn't find his particular link, but try this:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1621.0

Thanks again, I'll do it next time.

In any event, you will NOT have to replace that new head for a long, long time.

Nice work!   Clapping
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  San Francisco Bay, SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."
willie
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« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2007, 02:52:41 AM »

Bill,
I would like to replace my head with the same, the question I have is what did you do about the old holes? Did the new head base have the same hole pattern?
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foursailing
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« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2007, 09:46:40 PM »

Willie - Unfortunately it has a different hole pattern - plus there are a couple of additional holes required.  I haven't gotten around to patching the old holes - they aren't noticeable.  When (if) I get around to it I'll use some white marinetex.

The installation was pretty straight forward.  After I removed the lag screws securing the old head, I positioned the new head to the optimum position - taking into consideration positioning of the "skirt" that covers the base.  I marked and drilled  the first hole then installed the lag screw.  I then marked, drilled and installed the remaining lags.

I removed the plywood floor in the locker next to the head and was able to reach under and feel the location of the old lag screws to make sure there was clearance for the new screws. 

Use a drill stop - or a least some tape on the bit - to make sure you don't drill too deep and go into the hull!!!

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Bill
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Bill Dwyer
#1446, 1999
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Stu Jackson
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« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2012, 11:43:16 PM »

Last weekend, during the Rites of Spring Race, a yearly fun doublehanded race here on San Francisco Bay, my son, Morgan, broke the handle on our old W/C Headmate head.  Since they don't make 'em anymore, I couldn't do the old straight "swap-'em-out" routine.

In July 2010 I bought a PHII on a great sale at WM.  My garage had been babysitting the new head until Morgan, our expert exhaust hose replacement guy, urged the head replacement project.

Thanks to the great information available from Bill and Mike Vacarro, the new head went in pretty smoothly.  Bill's picture tells part of the story, but here are some more flix.  Here's Mike's writeup: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3296.0.html

Bill's installation has the head closer to the forward wall of the head.   In my case, as compared to Mike's, I didn't want to relocate the head outlet hose (if I didn't have to).  I didn't.  So the head itself is a little further aft than Bill's picture, but still fits on the pedestal.

I didn't install the "back" side "skirt" and may do so after cutting it down as Mike posted, but the front skirt seems to stay on all by itself, held on, no doubt, by "sky hooks."

Update Sept. 2013 - a year and a half later and the front skirt stays on just fine without the back one!

Old head starts...



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« Last Edit: September 09, 2013, 01:35:32 PM by Stu Jackson » Logged

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  San Francisco Bay, SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

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« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2012, 11:44:37 PM »

The "ell" required due to Raritan's front entrance port for the seawater intake.  As most of you know, we've also connected our head intake to the sink drain under the head and use it for only the LAST flush of the day with Odorlos.

I cleaned and waxed the base of the surfaces.  Yucky stuff down there from the old head which leaked at the flange at the outlet.

Old holes siliconed over.  I'd thought of using Marinetex, but the PO had used silicone and it'd been there, working, for over 13 years.  What the heck...

The far bolt had been torqued down, removed and then the locknut and washer put on to make it easier to snug that one down in the hard to reach backside.  The front ones are shown from when I first torqued them down, then removed them completely for when I slid the head into place, followed by the locknuts and washers on the easy to get to front side.

I used only four of the six bolt positions - plenty solid.


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« Last Edit: March 24, 2012, 07:41:42 PM by Stu Jackson » Logged

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  San Francisco Bay, SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

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« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2012, 11:45:54 PM »

Using lag bolts instead of screws makes it a lot easier to install with a ratchet driver.


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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  San Francisco Bay, SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

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« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2012, 09:47:28 PM »

A VERY fine job, except for one li'l thing...

Clear plastic potable water hose is the wrong hose for a head intake line (or tank vent line either)...'cuz it's not rated for below--waterline connections...and...it's gonna start to turn black and yucky looking very quickly, which will provide the excuse you need to swap it out for the Shields or Trident #148 white hose you should have used in the first place.

Don't feel bad...there are boat builders who don't know any better either...they use it, prob'ly for the same reason you did--because it's a lot cheaper than even #148 sanitation hose.
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Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?51996
Tom Soko
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« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2012, 05:54:01 PM »

Stu,
You will LOVE the new head.  So much better than the OEM.  One thing you could do if you want to is to cut down the length of the pump handle, so that it doesn't get in the way as much.  It's aluminum and cuts easily.  Also very easy to drill a new hole for the cotter pin that keeps it in place.

Sept. 2013 Update:  Good idea, but we just leave the handle in the UP position, hasn't gotten in the way.
« Last Edit: September 09, 2013, 01:37:22 PM by Stu Jackson » Logged

Tom Soko
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« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2012, 06:13:17 PM »

I have a Raritan head, but do not have the front "skirt" that you show, Stu.  Anyone out there have one they'd like to sell?
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Scotty
Stu Jackson
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« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2012, 07:32:09 PM »

Unless someone has an extra he didn't install, I doubt it.  Reason?  'Cuz it's the back skirt that requires being cut to fit against the sloped surface behind the head.  The two skirts, front and rear, fit together with Velcro.  That's why I only press fitted the front skirt.  We'll see how it holds up in a seaway.  If it falls off, I'll resort to some small, very small, dollops of glue or silicone to keep it on the piece between the pump and the bowl.  You could try www.sailboatowners.com and order the whole skirt.
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  San Francisco Bay, SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."
Stu Jackson
C34IA - Secretary
Forum - Master Chief Petty Officer of the Navy
********

Karma: 51
Boat Name / Hull Number: Aquavite #224 1986 SR/FK, M25, NZ Rocna 10 (22#)
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« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2012, 07:34:01 PM »

Stu,
You will LOVE the new head.  So much better than the OEM.  One thing you could do if you want to is to cut down the length of the pump handle, so that it doesn't get in the way as much.  It's aluminum and cuts easily.  Also very easy to drill a new hole for the cotter pin that keeps it in place.

Thanks, Tom, great idea.  I'll wait to see The Admiral's first reaction, like, when she turns around inside the head!!!  

Used it today while working on the boat - what a difference - it actually works!!!
« Last Edit: March 26, 2012, 06:48:59 PM by Stu Jackson » Logged

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  San Francisco Bay, SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."
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« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2012, 08:00:17 PM »

If yours is the PHC--the compact version of the PH II--there is no shroud (cover) for the base...only for the full size PH II>
« Last Edit: February 22, 2014, 11:59:49 AM by Stu Jackson » Logged

Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?51996
Stu Jackson
C34IA - Secretary
Forum - Master Chief Petty Officer of the Navy
********

Karma: 51
Boat Name / Hull Number: Aquavite #224 1986 SR/FK, M25, NZ Rocna 10 (22#)
Home Port: Alameda, CA
Posts: 5448



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« Reply #13 on: Yesterday at 07:46:17 PM »

PHII is the full replacement

LBA is the pump only and you use your old bowl

The PHII has an option for full sized or small bowl

Do your HOMEWORK on the Raritan website.

Easy, and a great replacement that actually works.

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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  San Francisco Bay, SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."
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