Do I have an exhaust water leak?

[britinusa]

Thanks Ron.

And the goop to allow future removal without cutting it?

Paul

[KWKloeber]

I did get grimy under my manicure!

Paul the math says side it onto whichever nipple is the longest or that you can force as much of the hump onto, if it's as easy to for from either direction.  But that's just the engineer talking.  Well not really, that's how I got my hose back on the C30.

A little SuperLube gel might work for - it's PTFE based and would be compatible with the silicone and might (repeat MIGHT) hold up to the heat over time.  it would probably work fine for insertion also.

k

[Stu Jackson]

Rector's Pipe Dope on the muffler tubes and the riser end.  ACE Hardware.

Comes off every time, stays put.

Don't cut the hump hose until you actually place it in front of and on the top of the muffler and make sure of the fit.

Nice work, Paul.

[Dave Spencer]

Looks good Paul!
I did this several years ago and I now realize I should have taken 5 minutes to remove the head sink hoses making access easier.  Here is my documentation of the job.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6878.msg45884.html#msg45884

From Stu's post: 
Pictures, take and post them, please.  We always like to see how somebody else skins their knuckles!!!   

Note the skinned knuckle in the first picture proving that it's a real honest to goodness boat project! 

[KWKloeber]

PS. Use ABA type clamps for the hump, (as well as any new!! or critical!! clamp location) 
I essentially changed ALL my clamps to the solid band (ABA or AWAB).

kk

[britinusa]

PS. Use ABA type clamps for the hump, (as well as any new!! or critical!! clamp location) 
I essentially changed ALL my clamps to the solid band (ABA or AWAB).

kk

Ken, I got that process early on. So I purchased a complete kit of clamps and tool.
Whenever I work on a tube/pipe that has clamps, I replace them to the AWAB type. I also purchased 4 additional boxes of clamps in the popular sizes.

A huge (to me) benefit of using them is that they all use the same tool! No having to pull out the socket set and figure which size to use.

That makes it easy to pull a hose of real quick (such as when the raw water intake ingest a sandwich bag or clump of Sargasso.)

Also, whenever I use double clamps, I put the screws on opposite sides of the hose so that they counter each other.

I'm learning guys!

Paul

[Ron Hill]

Paul : I wrote this up before, but it's worth repeating:

Because the hump hose is a soft material I cut a piece of pliable leather and wrapped it around the hump hose so it acted a "chafe guard".  The hose clamps then could not cut into the hump hose when tightened.

A thought

[KWKloeber]

Ron,

What clamps did you use? 

Since the ABA / ABWA types are rounded bands (don't cut into the hose) and since it's sillycone you don't need to crank on them as on the OEM hose (gentlier on the inlet nipple.)  Would still think protection is warranted?

ken

[britinusa]

Update.
Installing the hump hose was as easy as removing the old hose.

Step 1.. measure the gap between the top of the muffler inlet tube and the bottom of the riser tube.
Step 2..  put two clamps on each end of the hump hose such that they were at least half the gap distance from the center of the hump.  That indicated  the minimum length of the hump hose.
Step 3.. cut the hump hose

I cut the hose with a simple exact knife.

The riser tube was longer than the muffler tube, so I lubricated the inside of both the hose ends and pushed it onto the riser tube as high as I could. Then wiggled the hose to get the lower end onto the muffler tube
Finally I slid the hump down so that it was evenly covering both.

Then installing two clamps on each end.

I'll add pics later.

After reconnecting the raw water and the faucet hoses, replacing the hose clamps as per.

Then ran the engine.

Result.

No leaks from the hump
Obviously less vibration being transferred to the muffler,  it's visible.

Problem. There is a wet area at the point where the nipple connects to the rise. I had the engine running for about 15 min at above idle  and it was barely a drip.

But I did see a drip leak that appears to be where the hoses pass from the head cupboard into the engine bay. Definitely not a fuel drip,  clean,  so probably from the raw water hose.

Can I marine epoxy the around the nipple or is that pushing it.

One more thing. Doing all of this caused me to become aware of position of the hoses and to notice where the touch. I'm going to reroute them to minimize rubbing / abrasion.

Paul

[KWKloeber]

Paul, are you saying that the injection Y itself is leaking, or that the seawater hose is leaking at that connection?

What type hose is it? wire wound or not?  A stiff hose can transmit vibration that could damage the Y, although theoretically the engine, Hx, manifold, Riser, Y -- all vibrate "together."

kk

[britinusa]

Two leaks.
1st. Where the nipple connects to the riser.

2nd. Probably where the raw water hose passes through the engine bay bulkhead.

Paul

[britinusa]

Weeping Riser Nipple

[britinusa]

Riser Nipple weep close up

[KWKloeber]

hard to tell - but looks like a beginning of a problem. 
As far as epoxying it, "not the right way to correct it - proceed at your own risk"


Bulkhead - so the hose if worn thru and leaking?  Always an issue where a hose or cable/wire passes thru anything.  I "affixed" my hose where it passes thru the bulkhead (not C34) so it can't vibrate.   You could overkill - remove, put chafe protection around, etc -- Or just remove any sharp points/edges, replace it -- and sleep soundly for at least another 29 years.

k

[britinusa]

Ken, that's pretty much as I see it.

Replace the riser (it will be easy to disconnect it from the hump hose  )

Replace the raw water hose and probably the hx to riser nipple hose while at it. And put anti chafe in place.

Not sure if I'll need to replace the engine exhaust manifold, it's probably original so nearly 30 years old, looks pretty cruddy.

Maybe now is the time to do the engine mounts, riser, hose and ensure the Tach input is also fixed.



Time to do more reading on how to's


Paul