Do I have an exhaust water leak?

[KWKloeber]

Ken, I do not think we have any Water Heater leaks. I had returned the hot water tank into service late last year, since then we have been able to use the hot water tank system and no leaks.

The hoses from the Tank are sitting in the bottom of the galley enclosure and still run aft to the engine bay stbd side. There is a bypass hose from the Thermostat to the return on the engine.

So I think all I have to do is to replace the hoses (cannot trust them) and connect them in place of the bypass hose.

Paul

Wonder why would PO have bothered to remove the WH coolant loop and install the thermostat bypass hose if thr Wh wasn't leaking?

[britinusa]

No clue, except that he also disconnected the 110v from the heater and the water heater was also bypassed (ie. The hot water tank inlet and outlet hoses were connected to each other and not to the tank)

Before I recommissioned the heater, I removed the tank and inspected it for leaks (connected a hose to it at full house pressure) and shorts, installed a new 110v element.

Paul

[KWKloeber]

No clue, except that he also disconnected the 110v from the heater and the water heater was also bypassed (ie. The hot water tank inlet and outlet hoses were connected to each other and not to the tank)

Before I recommissioned the heater, I removed the tank and inspected it for leaks (connected a hose to it at full house pressure) and shorts, installed a new 110v element.

Paul

curiouser and curiouser.  Was the heating element bad, or replaced JIC?
and you pressure tested both sides - potable and coolant?

k

[britinusa]

Yep, I believe that I tested by pressurizing both the Fresh Water and the Engine coolant water connections to the tank.

Paul

[Stu Jackson]

Updated Plan

• Connect the New Riser to the New Exhaust Flange (Pipe Dope or Superlube?
  

Again, the CD riser comes with the proper stuff to use on these threads.  They also include a nice how to manual.

[Ron Hill]

Paul : Look at your E-flange nuts and if they are the least bit rounded I'd replace them.

Also check thrice that the engine mating part of the engine riser & flange is absolutely clean!!  Riser side is easy to check!

Also make the "Dollar Bill" check, to make sure that CD didn't use tooo much insulation so the dollar bill will  easily pass between the HX and the seated riser/flange.

A few thoughts

[britinusa]

Ron, is the dollar bill test still applicable when using the new style insulation jacket from CD?

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2590/exhaust-riser-thermal-jacket-for-11-34-riser.cfm

When I removed the Riser & Exhaust Flange, the top two nuts came off the studs but the lower stud came out!

CD sells new studs and I was considering getting them. But not sure of the best method of removing the old top studs.

Paul

[britinusa]

Update.
B.O.A.T, it's getting close!

Ordered the new Riser, two part Insulating Jackets, Studs and a Drain valve for the Muffler (WYIT)

It looks as though I'll have to move the Muffler 1.5" to port as the standard Riser for the C34 is 1.5" wider than the one I removed. So it will be a bit of a jiggle but very doable.

Also ordered New Water hose sufficient from the Strainer to the Water pump, Water pump to the Heat Eachanger and Heat Exchanger to the Anti Siphon unit. Plus a Silicone hose for connecting the Anti Siphon unit to the Nipple on the Riser.

Throw in a set of Flange Studs & Nuts, and the kit includes the Pipe Dope for connecting the Riser to the Flange. And I have plenty of new AWAB hose clamps for the job to make it look really good.

The whole shebang should arrive by end of day Thursday ready for doing the install (at least starting it) this weekend.

More pics coming.

Paul

[Stu Jackson]

It looks as though I'll have to move the Muffler 1.5" to port as the standard Riser for the C34 is 1.5" wider than the one I removed. So it will be a bit of a jiggle but very doable.

Paul, beofre you do that "extra" work, please reread my article, earlier linked.  I bought the very same riser you are getting, and also installed an OEM muffler in THE VERY SAME PLACE.

The "answer" is to get the riser as HIGH as possible over the muffler and make the hump hose as LONG as possible, and the hump hose will twist enough to make the connection.  It looks a tad goofy, but it works.

Saves all the unnecessary effort of moving the muffler.

There is no reason at all to assure that the bottom of the riser is exactly in line with the inlet of the muffler, as long as there's enough distance between them.   Make the hump hose as long as possible.

[britinusa]

Thanks stu.
The plan is to install the riser and see what changes are needed.

Oaul

[Ron Hill]

Paul : The reason for the "Dollar Bill" test is to make sure that the riser is NOT pressing against the HX!!!!
That was the reason that the hoses clamps that hold the HX in it's saddle were breaking.

Just make sure there is clearance.  I used a dollar bill because I can't see around corners.

A thought

[Noah]

Paul- check (and change?) your tranny fluid while you have the HX out, it's more convenient.

[KWKloeber]

Paul,

For future access to the tranny fluid, here's a trick I devised that may or may not work for you.

I had an old Nalgene plastic squeeze lab bottle, kinda like the Harbor Freight ones here 

http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-8-oz-storage-bottles-with-twist-caps-66170.html 
(but better quality)  and put a vinyl hose on the tip and marked the body at 0.3 liter.

I fill it to my mark, insert the hose in the fill hole, tip up and squeeze the bottle -- no muss no fuss.  Previously it was a bear to avoid (never did) spilling or dripping fluid all over.

Doesn't apply to you , I also have a (remnant from when I winter-stored on the hard) squeeze-bulb-type battery filler with the stem marked at the same length as the tranny dipstick 'full mark.' 

In fall, I'd suck the tranny dry with my oil change pump and completely refill it (overkill, maybe.)  Then in spring I'd pull the level down from 'completely full' to the operating level using my TFA (tranny fluid adjuster.)   Again no muss no fuss.

kk

[britinusa]

Did a transmission oil change in June.

I used a turkey butter injector with a tube, but I like Kens Plasi bottle better.

Paul

[britinusa]

Wow!
I ordered the Riser, Insulation Jackets (2), Studs, Exhaust Flange and Muffler Drain valve late Monday afternoon

They all arrived this afternoon at 3.15pm EST!

Thanks CD!

The Raw Water hoses and the silicone hose also arrived this afternoon - Thanks Ken!

Paul