Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Pages: 1 [2]   Go Down

Author Topic: buffing out oxidized paint  (Read 3052 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

DaveBMusik

  • Forum - Petty Officer 1st Class
  • *****
  • Karma: 2
  • Posts: 237
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #15 on: April 21, 2017, 02:32:10 PM »

then what would be blue coming off?  though i was not the one buffing, i wasn't there.  thanks

I also have a painted blue stripe similar to yours
Logged
Dave Burgess
Water Music
1986 C34 Hull #206, Fin Keel
Yanmar 3YM30
Noank, CT

anaisdog

  • Forum - Petty Officer 1st Class
  • *****
  • Karma: 3
  • Posts: 418
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #16 on: April 21, 2017, 02:57:53 PM »

how do you buff it?
Logged
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

KWKloeber

  • Forum - Master Chief Petty Officer of the Navy
  • ********
  • Karma: 35
  • Posts: 4248
  • "Positive Impact" 1984 C-30 mk-I #3573 trbsfk M-25
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #17 on: April 21, 2017, 03:07:27 PM »

how do you buff it?

becki.  If it's painted you need to be much more careful than gel coat.  As with any buffing  you don't want to build up heat and soften the finish.  Maybe that's what your "friend" was doing??

If you're talking buffing out a waxed finish it's less aggressive than compounding it. You want just enough to remove excess dried wax and polish it. Suggest you look around for auto refinishing tips. YouTube??

k
Logged
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

KWKloeber

  • Forum - Master Chief Petty Officer of the Navy
  • ********
  • Karma: 35
  • Posts: 4248
  • "Positive Impact" 1984 C-30 mk-I #3573 trbsfk M-25
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #18 on: April 21, 2017, 03:09:46 PM »

I'm not sure- autogeeks.com may have tips. They sell to that market and I have purchased from there.
Logged
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

  • Administrator
  • Forum - Master Chief Petty Officer of the Navy
  • ********
  • Karma: 21
  • Posts: 2140
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #19 on: April 21, 2017, 04:44:47 PM »

I would caution using rubbing compound and power tools if you are inexperienced. Or at least practice on something that is not dear to you.
Logged
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Stu Jackson

  • C34IA - Secretary
  • Forum - Master Chief Petty Officer of the Navy
  • ********
  • Karma: 73
  • Posts: 8121
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #20 on: April 21, 2017, 08:03:32 PM »

Have you read this from reply #2?

Here's the Holy Grail:

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/tips-for-a-great-buff-wax.117266/

by Maine Sail
Logged
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Mark Sutherland

  • Forum - Petty Officer 2nd Class
  • ****
  • Karma: 0
  • Posts: 124
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #21 on: April 21, 2017, 10:25:33 PM »

Becki, you don't need to mix compound with cleaner wax unless you want more grit.  Cleaner wax IS wax + compound mixed.
Logged
Dunrobin II, 1986 C34 MK1 #170

britinusa

  • Forum - Chief Petty Officer
  • ******
  • Karma: 6
  • Posts: 981
    • View Profile
    • Sailing Eximius
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #22 on: April 22, 2017, 06:06:56 AM »

Have you read this from reply #2?

Here's the Holy Grail:

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/tips-for-a-great-buff-wax.117266/

by Maine Sail

I'm in Mainesail's camp here.

Our 1987 boat had been treated with Poly Glow multiple times before we purchased her, and we had the yard clean and apply Poly Glow during the Survey / Purchase haul out.

Now our hull looks like Carp! We wash down the hull every trip and wipe off every couple of months. A marina boat crew 'cleaned' the hull (magic erasers) and ruined the Polyglow finish. So now it looks awful.

I followed Mainesail's process on our last boat, purchasing the products and equipment he recommended. The results on our last boat were spectacular! And it really was not such a big deal, although I'll make sure not to repeat it during the hot summer 8)

Planning on a haul (not quite as early as originally planned after our boat dive service reported that our bottom was looking really good) and at that time Iwe'll clean and polish the hull, it will look good. And best of all, our regular wipedowns should keep her looking good for a few seasons. (Sorry for those that have 'Seasons' they tend to be year round here in SoFla  :D )

Paul
Logged
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Dave Spencer

  • Forum - Petty Officer 1st Class
  • *****
  • Karma: 2
  • Posts: 469
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #23 on: April 22, 2017, 07:52:18 AM »

More support for the Mainesail approach from me.  I followed the process on our previous boat - a 1978 CS27 with very good results.  I don't recall if this is in the instructions be be careful if you are polishing near bootstripes or contrasting cove stripes.  These are often painted on and you can get some colour transfer if you aren't careful about where you polish. 
I haven't done in on our C34 since the flag blue Awlgrip paint still gives me a mirror finish with very little maintenance.

Logged
Dave Spencer
C34 #1279  "Good Idea"
Mk 1.5, Std Rig, Wing Keel, M35A Engine
Boat - Midland, Ontario (formerly Lion's Head)
People - London, Ontario

Noah

  • Administrator
  • Forum - Master Chief Petty Officer of the Navy
  • ********
  • Karma: 21
  • Posts: 2140
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #24 on: April 22, 2017, 09:51:25 AM »

Dave- was your Awlgrip painted bootstipe OEM on your Mk 1.5, or done at a later date?
Logged
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Dave Spencer

  • Forum - Petty Officer 1st Class
  • *****
  • Karma: 2
  • Posts: 469
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #25 on: April 22, 2017, 10:21:37 AM »

Hi Noah,
Our PO Awlgripped the whole hull and left a narrow white gelcoat bootstripe along the waterline.  It looks great and except for a few spots with a bit of fender rash that i'm working on with Awl Polish, there is still a mirror finish.

« Last Edit: April 22, 2017, 10:22:52 AM by Dave Spencer »
Logged
Dave Spencer
C34 #1279  "Good Idea"
Mk 1.5, Std Rig, Wing Keel, M35A Engine
Boat - Midland, Ontario (formerly Lion's Head)
People - London, Ontario

Noah

  • Administrator
  • Forum - Master Chief Petty Officer of the Navy
  • ********
  • Karma: 21
  • Posts: 2140
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #26 on: April 22, 2017, 12:01:19 PM »

Dave- great pics. Close reaching under spinnaker (while towing a dinghy!?)!! :clap I have a question about your hull portlights that I posed in a new thread.
Logged
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Breakin Away

  • Forum - Petty Officer 1st Class
  • *****
  • Karma: 4
  • Posts: 460
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #27 on: April 25, 2017, 06:11:31 PM »

I've done the Mainesail polish/wax treatment twice on my prior C250, and just a week ago on my C34mkII. It gets easier each time.

He does give some options on which materials to use, so I'll briefly describe what I use.

I really like using the Presta Ultra Cutting Cream for the polish. It starts as a course grit, but breaks down into a fine polish as you work it in with an electric buffer with wool pad. This gets you a nice shine in one step. The 32 oz bottle is costly at $30, but lasts a long time. I've done my C250 (twice) and 34mkII once, and still have a little left over. I also have the Collinite Liquid FG Cleaner that I use for hand-polishing intricate areas, but for a large smooth surface I prefer the Presta with electric buffer.

Make frequent use of a spray bottle with water to extend the open time of the Presta and provide cooling. If it dries out, you may damage the fiberglass due to excessive abrasion and/or overheating.

For the wax I have used Collinite 850 Fleet Wax. If you have done your polishing correctly, it should be wipe on/wipe off without any electric buffing required. If it's hard to get off, you're waiting too long, doing it in sunlight, and/or did not do a good enough job polishing. This year I used up the 850 and needed more on short notice (not enough time to order online or drive all the way to West Marine), and the guy at the nearby auto refinish store told me their 476s is the same stuff, just packaged and marketed for the automotive market. So I bought some and it seems to be the same as 850. Collinite's application tables suggest that it's the same stuff as well (same balance of properties). So if you want to support your local business, I'd suggest considering the 476s if your Presta dealer also carries Collinite. One advantage of buying locally is the ability to return unused material, which came in handy when I didn't end up needing that new bottle of Presta.

For my bootstrip restoration I have always started with a wet sand on the blue gelcoat bootstripe, followed by the Presta and wax. Don't overdo the sanding. You will see some light blue residue during the wet sanding. If your bootstripe is painted, all bets are off and you should be very careful. If the paint is Awlgrip or other 2-part urethane, I would only follow manufacturer's instructions for polishing.

I've used Poliglow on other boats, and have very mixed feelings about it. I'd always recommend the Mainesail procedure, and only resort to Poliglow if you find it impossible to get a truly glossy, non-porous finish by that method, or the hull form of the boat is too irregular to use a mechanical polisher. The former was the case with our Phantom sailing dinghy, and the latter was the case with our Trophy fishing boat. Polyglow worked well for those cases, but the Mainsail procedure gets superior results that last longer.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2017, 06:14:25 PM by Breakin Away »
Logged

2001 MkII Breakin' Away, #1535, TR/WK, M35BC, Mantus 35# (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)

DaveBMusik

  • Forum - Petty Officer 1st Class
  • *****
  • Karma: 2
  • Posts: 237
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #28 on: April 26, 2017, 07:44:37 AM »

how do you buff it?

Unfortunately, mine looks like it was painted on with a brush. I have waxed over it but will probably wait to polish it until I am ready to do something new.
Logged
Dave Burgess
Water Music
1986 C34 Hull #206, Fin Keel
Yanmar 3YM30
Noank, CT

Breakin Away

  • Forum - Petty Officer 1st Class
  • *****
  • Karma: 4
  • Posts: 460
    • View Profile
Re: buffing out oxidized paint
« Reply #29 on: April 27, 2017, 12:42:13 PM »

Following up on my prior message, I just got home and got a chance to pull out some pics from my latest polishing job. You can get an idea of the appearance of the restored boot stripe, as well as the shine on the overall hull. Unfortunately, I was in too much of a hurry to get started, and neglected to take "before" pics. But the boot stripe was pretty severely chalked beforehand.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2017, 12:44:15 PM by Breakin Away »
Logged

2001 MkII Breakin' Away, #1535, TR/WK, M35BC, Mantus 35# (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
Pages: 1 [2]   Go Up