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Author Topic: Hose replacement to HW heater w/ Hose Flix  (Read 28528 times)

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KWKloeber

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Re: Hose replacement to HW heater w/ Hose Flix
« Reply #45 on: September 14, 2014, 03:08:03 PM »

Thanks for the comments guys.  Some good questions there.  After I put the hoses in I used a funnel to fill the hoses and HX, only took about 1/2 a gallon to fill.  That was Wednesday.  I ran it pier side long enough to check for leaks and bring engine up to temp.  I have the 160 thermostat.
Friday first thing I checked was for leaks then checked the coolant, it was still right at the top. When I motored out I ran at about 2100 RPM most of the run, the temp was up to 160 and held very steady.  I did notice that the temp seemed to take longer to come up then normal and I put that off to that it's now heating the water heater too so the cold water there will have an affect on how fast it comes to full operating temp.  I know I'm getting full water circulation because both new hoses were hot and I did get hot water.  Just not as fast as I kind of thought I would.

Ralph

Ralph,

I have some experience w/ the WH and engine temp, because the MK-I C30 had ALL coolant going to the WH (it was in series with the Hx.)  A mod switched it to the system on the 34, which I did several yrs ago. 

Before, it was impossible to get hot domestic water at the slip or on a hook, because it takes forever for the thermostat to open (and push hot coolant thru the WH.)  Afterward, I now get hot water very very quickly because (like the 34) the WH is connected to the water pump/thermostat bypass, so coolant immediately circulates to the WH.

I can't swear the iron genny runs cooler after the mod vs. before, but she does run cool -  under 160F after my 2" Hx developed a pinhole leak between the coolant/sea water sides, and I switched to the 3" Hx -- which was way before doing the WH mod.  Since I'm in fresh water, it's on my B List to switch to the 180F thermostat.

What you're saying makes some sense, up to when the thermostat opens and then the coolant going to the WH should be as hot as it will ever get. So, verify that the thermostat opens at 160 and not earlier.  If you're in fresh water, want hotter domestic water, consider switching to the 180F thermostat.

The flow of coolant to the WH will also affect time and temp - so you might try all 5/8" hose - switch to 1/2" just before the tailpieces at the water pump and thermostat housing.  Those tailpieces, I believe, are 1/8" JIS/British pipe thread, so there may be another tailpiece or barbed hose adapter that would go directly to 5/8" hose.

Also make sure there's no restrictions and have completely free flow to/thru/from the WH.  Backflush the coil to make sure.


Ken K
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KWKloeber

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Re: Hose replacement to HW heater w/ Hose Flix
« Reply #46 on: July 21, 2020, 07:36:18 PM »

Has anyone found a source (other than Westerbeke) for the direct 3/8" to 5/8" heater hose couplers/adapters for the T-stat bypass hose nipples to the water heater hoses?

WB has a #302391 brass barbed adapter and I believe they originally were nylon connectors.

I realize they can be made up from parts, just looking for the straight shot for a buddy....

Thx
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain
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