Hose replacement to HW heater w/ Hose Flix

[KWKloeber]

Thanks for the comments guys.  Some good questions there.  After I put the hoses in I used a funnel to fill the hoses and HX, only took about 1/2 a gallon to fill.  That was Wednesday.  I ran it pier side long enough to check for leaks and bring engine up to temp.  I have the 160 thermostat.
Friday first thing I checked was for leaks then checked the coolant, it was still right at the top. When I motored out I ran at about 2100 RPM most of the run, the temp was up to 160 and held very steady.  I did notice that the temp seemed to take longer to come up then normal and I put that off to that it's now heating the water heater too so the cold water there will have an affect on how fast it comes to full operating temp.  I know I'm getting full water circulation because both new hoses were hot and I did get hot water.  Just not as fast as I kind of thought I would.

Ralph

Ralph,

I have some experience w/ the WH and engine temp, because the MK-I C30 had ALL coolant going to the WH (it was in series with the Hx.)  A mod switched it to the system on the 34, which I did several yrs ago. 

Before, it was impossible to get hot domestic water at the slip or on a hook, because it takes forever for the thermostat to open (and push hot coolant thru the WH.)  Afterward, I now get hot water very very quickly because (like the 34) the WH is connected to the water pump/thermostat bypass, so coolant immediately circulates to the WH.

I can't swear the iron genny runs cooler after the mod vs. before, but she does run cool -  under 160F after my 2" Hx developed a pinhole leak between the coolant/sea water sides, and I switched to the 3" Hx -- which was way before doing the WH mod.  Since I'm in fresh water, it's on my B List to switch to the 180F thermostat.

What you're saying makes some sense, up to when the thermostat opens and then the coolant going to the WH should be as hot as it will ever get. So, verify that the thermostat opens at 160 and not earlier.  If you're in fresh water, want hotter domestic water, consider switching to the 180F thermostat.

The flow of coolant to the WH will also affect time and temp - so you might try all 5/8" hose - switch to 1/2" just before the tailpieces at the water pump and thermostat housing.  Those tailpieces, I believe, are 1/8" JIS/British pipe thread, so there may be another tailpiece or barbed hose adapter that would go directly to 5/8" hose.

Also make sure there's no restrictions and have completely free flow to/thru/from the WH.  Backflush the coil to make sure.


Ken K

[KWKloeber]

Has anyone found a source (other than Westerbeke) for the direct 3/8" to 5/8" heater hose couplers/adapters for the T-stat bypass hose nipples to the water heater hoses?

WB has a #302391 brass barbed adapter and I believe they originally were nylon connectors.

I realize they can be made up from parts, just looking for the straight shot for a buddy....

Thx

[Oldlaxer1]

I did the water heater replacement this weekend.  Wow, what a mess I found.  I've attached a few pictures. I took my Fein multi tool and cut off the existing connections instead of wrestling with trying to get them through the small opening. 
An experienced boat mechanic taught me a trick a while ago for pulling hoses.  Get a wooden dowel the same ID as the hose and cut a short length of it.  Put it in the end of the old hose and the end of the new hose.  Run a small screw thru the hose ends into the dowel.  Works like a charm (unless there are hidden clamps).  Anyhow, after getting everything in place I realized I have to modify the platform. Off to Home Depot today to finish the job.  I did connect the heater hoses from the engine and burped the system. Seems to be working fine.  This site is a great resource. 

[Jim Lucas]

Well, I'm thinking of taking up the advice and replacing my water heater hoses...
I reading through these posts, it doesn't sound like a fun job as the hoses appear to be well anchored or even fastened underneath but I have a friend that will help so between us we should be able to conquer it. I spoke with the PO and he said he regularly inspected the hoses as best he could but hadn't had the need to replace these so they should be original 1999.
Wondering how much I can take apart to make this easier? I will pull out the shelving etc under the sink and take the engine compartment housing off. It doesn't look like I'll get anywhere by pulling up the sole floor as I'm pretty sure its just covering the fiberglass solid floor beneath?
Any tips on prepping to make this easier?

[Oldlaxer1]

Pulling the new hoses was actually the easiest part for me.  Of course I had the luxury of having the heater out first but I still don't think it will be too difficult for you. I used the 3" long piece of wooden dowel inserted in the old and new hoses with a small screw thru the hoses into the dowel to connect old and new hoses.  (obviously cut off the section where the screw went thru the hose once you get them pulled thru) Worked like a charm for me.  Pull from the engine side and push from the heater side and I think you'll be fine. I had the dish soap at the ready but didn't need it.
There definitely seems to be enough space under the floorboards.

[Jim Lucas]

Thanks John.

Lastly, not sure there is access to the hose run via a port under the sole at the base of the companionway ladder? Before pulling up the flooring, and only if needed, does anyone know if that is there on the MKII of my vintage?
Prefer to have a reason to tear it apart than just take a chance.... :)

[Ron Hill]

Guys : I found that the brass hose fittings into the HW heater are stronger that the nylon, but will transmit the heat much easier than the nylon fittings.

Jim : If you are trying to replace the hoses to the head?, I don't believe that there is any obstruction to pulling the hoses thru.  If you lift up the (Loincoin sp?) floorboards all you'll find is the flooring "pan" that hold the floorboards.

A thought

[Jim Lucas]

Thanks Ron,
Good to have checked as nothing worse than digging only to find a dead end...

Wish me luck and quick success!

[Stu Jackson]

Well, I'm thinking of taking up the advice and replacing my water heater hoses...
I reading through these posts, it doesn't sound like a fun job as the hoses appear to be well anchored or even fastened underneath
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Wondering how much I can take apart to make this easier? I will pull out the shelving etc under the sink and take the engine compartment housing off. It doesn't look like I'll get anywhere by pulling up the sole floor as I'm pretty sure its just covering the fiberglass solid floor beneath?

Jim, the hoses are NOT well anchored.  They are not anchored at all.  If they were, there would be no way to replace them.  While mine is a Mark I boat, the differences between yours and mine are the location of the heater.

The sole, whether the lon material at the galley or the teak & holly, are above full fiberglass.  There is NO access to anything down below it.

Lastly, not sure there is access to the hose run via a port under the sole at the base of the companionway ladder? Before pulling up the flooring, and only if needed, does anyone know if that is there on the MKII of my vintage?
Prefer to have a reason to tear it apart than just take a chance.... :)

Don't take up any flooring, it will get you nowhere.



If you go back to my posts with my pictures, they pretty well explain how to do the replacement.

Good luck.

[Jim Lucas]

Thanks Stu,

I did review all the previous notes and was just double checking a few thoughts before tackling this.

Cheers,
Jim

[Ron Hill]

Jim : When I changed out my heater hoses to the head, I also slid some 1/2" pipe insulation on the hoses (hot & cold).  Just wanted to protect the hoses incase there were any fiberglass chards in there that I couldn't see!!

Also did that to the engine to heater hoses - 3/4"!!

A few thoughts

[Jim Lucas]

Just finished replacing my HW heater hoses on my 99 MKII. Not quite the same as others had mentioned as it turns out there's a fibreglass channel that the hoses run through under the sole. With the age and eventual hardness baked into them, very difficult to get them to back out of that channel with the hardened bends in them.
I wound up having to run the two new hoses along side that old hose channel. The old hoses were just chopped and left in the channel as it would have meant cutting the floor apart to get them out.

Not much of a fun job to do but, based on the compromised hose condition, a great job to get done!
Have now completed replacement of most all the crucial hoses on the boat!

Sanitation hoses next. Yuck!