Heavy steering?

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Gusc

A friend pointed me to this similar problem, on the C36 forum: https://www.catalina36.org/comment/38642?fbclid=IwAR1VdBTtfaZqhLNbW1k9GAfuhrbQYx8MLAUU5ETs6O7rIA7hqYyzAlfFa4M

To save you time, the author appears to solve the problem just by pouring a little lubricant oil down the rudder shaft, through the rudder packing gland... Do you see any negative side to trying this with something like PB Blaster or WD40?

Thanks!

Noah

Gusc- something does NOT sound "right" in your boat description. Your original post said it was a 1987. However, your post this AM you said it had a an "emergency tiller head on cockpit sole." The two don't match. 1987 MkI boats tiller heads are above the sole incorporated into the helm seat fiberglass structure. Possibly just semantics but...
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Gusc

#17
Quote from: Noah on March 09, 2021, 10:26:41 AM
Gusc- something does NOT sound "right" in your boat description. Your original post said it was a 1987. However, your post this AM you said it had a an "emergency tiller head on cockpit sole." The two don't match. 1987 MkI boats tiller heads are above the sole incorporated into the helm seat fiberglass structure. Possibly just semantics but...

Noah, you are absolutely right, and I apologize for the confusion. I was going by memory and got confused. Yes, the head sits in a little indentation in the fiberglass, not directly on the sole.
This is what it looks like: https://www.catalinadirect.com/images/products/1009/K1598_S02_1430_lg.jpg

KWKloeber

#18
Gusc

If you zoon into your pic I believe that you'll see that the f'glass tube is not hitting the radial wheel.   :clap :clap I can see the bottom of the tube and the rudder stock extending from it, to (and below of) the radial wheel.  There's maybe 1/2"?? between the tube and wheel. 

background - My 30 mk-I isn't exactly identical steering to the 34 mk-I but has the same concept.
The tubes are glassed-in as one piece, from lazarette to the hull, then a section cut away to accept the steering.  It isn't perfect and no two are identical (being done by hand/manually by precision-minded techs -- your tube was not cut exactly square (perpendicular) to the stock but it doesn't affect anything.)
Actual unretouched pic of the factory  :shock:.


The top and bottom tubes carry the horizontal thrust of the rudder stock (there are nylon thrust washers that carry the vertical loads.)  The f'glass tubes can eventually wear (the stock gets sloppy/loose/wobbly)and that can be repaired (I did mine.)

I had my steering get tight during a passage in heavy/running seas (I had previously refurbed my steering slop so I concluded that the tubes were not the issue.)

I crawled in and accessed the steering guts -- and found that the packing gland casting had worked its way up from its original seating in the lower tube.  The CTY fix that Stu posted shows gooping it back into place.  Instead, I "temporarily" rubed together a few hose clamps around the very top of the tube, and snugged the tube tight onto the casting.  I first had to tweak the location of the packing gland to eliminate the stiff steering.  Once the Admiral said the wheel was as free as before, I tightened up the hose clamps.  That was 20 yrs ago ("temporarily".)

I wouldn't haphazardly pour stuff down the tube before isolating the cause.  Undo the three bolts to loosen the gland on the stock and see if that improves the situation...  In troubleshooting (especially on a boat) it's way better to isolate the root cause instead of throwing solutions against the wall.  A temporary fix might not permanently fix the problem, or the issue might coincidentally/temporarily disappear (or a blind fix could mask something more serious that could bite harder later on.)  Loosen/remove the cable if necessary.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

I believe he does not (yet) own the boat and was searching for the possible cause and how to fix as part of his due diligence before making an offer. I may be wrong. My two cents is it would not be a deal-breaker for me, however, I would consider insisting the owner "fix" as part of the deal. Stiff steering may be a subjective issue as well, if you don't have another C34 to compare it to. Question: was/is the boat and survey out of the water, so one could move the rudder from below? I also like the idea of checking rudder rotation without cables attached as well. Good luck.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Gusc

Noah and everyone who contributed to my knowledge here: thank you so much!!
I learned a ton, and, fortunately don't have to put it to use now because the seller found the issue and resolved it for me. He called Catalina and they gave him a couple of leads.

He propped up the rudder, removed the emergency tiller head and saw that the washer under it had a groove dug into it. He flipped the washer, so the smooth end turned down, reattached the head, and the whole system moves with his pinky.

I am thankful for 2 things: 1) the issue was simple, 2) the seller spent several hours fixing little things found in the survey including this sticky steering thing.

I am on my way to owning my first keelboat!  :clap

Noah

Congratulations! Glad things worked out and welcome aboard!
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

waughoo

Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Ron Hill

Gusc : Here is some more advice.
 
I took a second nylon washer and installed it over the first.  That will keep your rudder from moving vertically in heavy weather. If the 2nd washer is too thick when you reassemble, put it on a belt sander and take off some surface.  You might have to pry up the whole rudder from the bottom, but it is well worth the effort!!

I'm surprised that the emergency tiller cap came off so easily on a 1987 C34! Just make sure that you keep the inside of that aluminum tiller cap greased so it doesn't corrode on to the stainless column.

A few thoughts 
Ron, Apache #788