Windless article

Jon W · June 13, 2022, 11:00:10 PM

I have an up/down switch hard wired at the helm, and an up/down wireless remote for my Maxwell windlass. The remote allows me to walk around the boat and works great for single handing. Plus no additional holes in the boat.

Noah · June 14, 2022, 07:41:58 AM

Sorry folks I meant no room for two foot switches inside my MKl SINGLE-DOOR anchor locker.

Lucky Tiger · June 14, 2022, 12:10:50 PM

I dont think there is room on my MKii either for a second foot switch unfortunately. I like the idea of installing the controls at the helm. Question: Can I reuse the existing solnoid or do I need to purchase the one you can buy with it? I havent opened up the area yet to see whats what. TIA

Jim Hardesty · June 14, 2022, 12:37:00 PM

QuoteI dont think there is room on my MKii either for a second foot switch

Lots of room. Shamrock is also a MKll and has both foot switches. The only problem is the anchor locker lid, had to modify it or the down switch would activate when the lid was stepped on. Two previous owners lived with it that way. Only really need a foot switch and a second solenoid. But, if I remember correctly, the kit that Maxwell sells for the up/down comes in a box and is neater fit.
Jim

Lucky Tiger · July 06, 2022, 09:58:57 AM

I completed my installation this weekend. It wasn't a direct swap like I had hoped. I was able to find a spot for the second switch. I went with the 3/8 gypsy in hindsight I would have gone with 5/16 because I am having an issue with the chain bunching up.

Lucky Tiger · July 06, 2022, 10:02:49 AM

Interior view

Noah · July 06, 2022, 10:54:07 AM

Lucky-
You can read about my observations/experience with installing the VW10-8 windlass in the thread below.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11188.msg88997.html#msg88997

Meanwhile: I like the windlass, it is very powerful. However, it has been a "learning project". These observations/lessons learned in the attached thread and here, may help you.

1. I think your choice of 3/8 chain is a mistake and adding to your stacking/jamming problems:
Our boats don't need anything larger than 5/16 and some use 1/4.

2. The lead angle from windlass to the bow roller is not helping. I built a spacer on mine, out of G10, to go between locker side bulkhead and the windlass base. This improved the angle of attack. Eliminated most all jumping off of the gypsy.

3. I had 40 ft. of 5/16 and 350 ft. of 8-plait rode and did not have enough room for it all in anchor locker without stacking problems. My first fix was to coil 1/2 of the line and hang it on a piece of PVC pipe in the locker on the side of the locker using the molded in shank indents which were intended to hold a Danforth-style anchor. That sort of worked and gave the chain a rode more drop clearance under the windlass.

4. Just yesterday, I replaced all rode (40ft. Chain and 350 fr. 8-plait) with 200 ft. Of 5/16 chain. This takes up much less room in the chain locker and should give plenty of drop space for chain to fall. I will test this weekend and report back. I will keep my old rode set-up (aboard boat in cockpit locker) to attach to 200 ft. Of chain with quick link on the rare occasion I have to anchor in deeper water.

Lucky Tiger · July 06, 2022, 12:43:11 PM

Noah, I wish I would have found that thread before I started my install. That spacer looks great. The 3/8 chain may be overkill but I always oversize my groundtackle. I've been in some big blows at anchor and its nice to have when its needed. But it is indeed causing me a problem with this windlass. I'm going to have to find a way get some more space behind the chain. The lead angle is not ideal but something ill have to live with. I look forward to hearing how the all chain rode works for you. cheers

Ron Hill · July 06, 2022, 02:56:57 PM

Lucky : I don't believe that the lead angle (although it isn't straight) is you chain falling problem.

What you might try is to change your nylon rode to braid on braid. I found the 3 strand to get stiff and the B on B will fall / fold nicely and NEVER get stiff (it's also stronger!!). I split my anchor well and you might want to do the same. That way the nylon could go on the port side (of the separation) and the chain on the starboard side because the chain will fall directly down!!

A few thoughts

Lucky Tiger · July 06, 2022, 03:18:27 PM

Roger that. I agree the chain angle isn't the cause. I currently do have my chain locker divided however the chain falling problem seems to be with the distance from the gypsy to the back of the chain locker. If there is a twist in the chain, instead of rolling over and correcting itself on sequential links it binds up in the area same with retrieval. I am able to forward and reverse it to fix but what a PITA after all the money spent and hours installing. I am considering doing some fiberglass work to make that area larger. Another thought I hope is true is that it may correct itself after anchoring with it so the chain will be straighten out so to speak.

Noah · July 06, 2022, 03:23:24 PM

Ron— I believe his issue is with the WV10-10 windlass—uses 3/8 chain, which leaves very little clearance between the gypsy and the back wall of anchor locker, causing it to jam. Also, the larger size chain results in more bulk, taking up more space. IMO this COULD, cause him stacking problems based on the amount of chain/rope rode he uses. I agree, 8-plait does take up less room than 3-strand snd should help.

As far as the lead from windlass to bow roller goes; for me that was causing even my 5/16 in. chain to jump, resulting in it jamming against the bulkhead or the rope occasionally to totally free-fall.

Noah · July 06, 2022, 03:29:49 PM

Here is what I tried in order to eliminate 1/2 of my 350 ft. rode, before I went to all chain. I also added a sheet of thin stainless steel behind windlass for chain chafe protection. Not sure if that "protection" helped or hurt but looks cool

Ron Hill · July 06, 2022, 04:58:45 PM

Lucky : I believe that Noah has a point (that I missed) There may be? a problem because there is insufficient distance between the chain and the aft wall of the anchor locker.??

My suggestion would be to find someone that would be willing to loan you their 5/16" chain so you could try the smaller chain out and see if it helps. Then you can decide to change to the 5/16" chain or stay with the 3/8" and modify the aft wall of the locker??

I went with a gypsy only which will handle both the 1/4" HT chain and the 1/2" Braded nylon. My 1988 didn't have a built in mold for the windless so I had to make a bracket and could position the motor so I got a straight shot from the bow roller. Also with no molded housing for the windless, I had to go with a vertical gypsy because I didn't have room for a drum. So each installation has it's own quirks!!

A few thoughts