Restoring Washboards

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

KeelsonGraham

My washboards look absolutely terrible. I was going to sand and varnish them but I think they may be teak. If so, then I understand that teak doesn't take varnish well because its oily. I'd really like to do something to improve their look.

Any suggestions from all you master craftsmen?
2006 Catalina 34 Mk II. Hull No:1752. Engine: M35 BC.

Noah

#1
Teak varnishes beautifully. Just follow the instructions on the can. There is a regimen for thinning the first couple of coats to aid penetration/absorption. It is all in the prep.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

scgunner

Noah,

You're a brave man refinishing those boards INSIDE the boat! Last time I refinished my teak boards I took a router to the backsides and removed about 3/8" of material out of the middle leaving a 2" border around the outside. It lightened the boards considerably making them much easier to handle.

That was before I replaced them with Starboard and eliminated the necessity of refinishing them.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Noah

Only apply varnish down below, not sanding. Easier to control dust, wind, bugs, sun reflection, etc., down below. Just try not to knock over the can :abd:
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KeelsonGraham

#4
Oh my! They look wonderful.  What varnish did you use Noah?
2006 Catalina 34 Mk II. Hull No:1752. Engine: M35 BC.

Jim Hardesty

QuoteTeak varnishes beautifully.
Absolutely.  It takes time, days.  Do you have a place at home to varnish?  If so cut "winter doorway"  and use that till the good ones are done.  I've taken the washboards, set them assembled on plywood, traced around and cut out.  Doesn't have to be anything fancy, will be one piece.  Doesn't even have to be as thick, 7/16 OSB works. 
Guessing best time to refinish.  One day to sand and varnish cut with the varnish thinned 20%.  Let dry, min overnight, then a quick scuff with scotch-brite and do first cut.  Same again for second coat. That's 3 days. Would double that for me because I'd only do one side at a time.  That will probably do it, for this season.  Repeat next season.
I know, sounds like a lot.  Did I say how much I like my Zarcor doors.  Still keep well varnished originals on board.
https://www.zarcor.com/products/c-doors/index.php
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

KeelsonGraham

Hi Jim, I've already sketched out the outline on marine ply. Ready to take the boards home next weekend. If 3 days is all it takes I'm going to get it done asap. My distant memories of car spraying in cold weather reminds  me of how better the finish is when done in the warm.
2006 Catalina 34 Mk II. Hull No:1752. Engine: M35 BC.

Noah

#7
I made my second set out of tinted Plexiglass. I use them in the rain, cold, or docked downwind. Gives protection while still letting in light below.

I use Epifanes brand varnish on my teak. Gloss finish on all outside teak and on the saloon table, and matte finish on the cabin sole. The rest of the interior is oiled.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

>>> I understand that teak doesn't take varnish well <<<

Absolutely fake news.
Be cautious sanding - you don't want to remove material such that they're sloppy in the tracks. USD more cleaning/bleaching.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

Guys : Before finishing teak, I've always wiped down the teak with alcohol.  That takes off any residual sanding dust and eliminates some of the natural oil in the wood!!   :thumb:

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

KeelsonGraham

Good tip Ron. I'll do that.
2006 Catalina 34 Mk II. Hull No:1752. Engine: M35 BC.