Jib Furling Line Route

[britinusa]

Furling the Jib in on Eximius is a pain!

It seems to take a huge effort (and I've been working out) and I'm not sure why, it's a comparatively new furler.

The furling line runs from the drum, down the port side through a some blocks on stanchions aft past the port winch to a block on the lower end of the pushpit tubing, then past it's cleat and to the winch drum.

The last block (on the pushpit) seems to have no purpose other than redirect the line towards the winch, and it does that at a bad angle, I fight overrides every time.

I wondered if I moved that black to the stanchion just forward of the winch if it would reduce the friction?

Not sure if the line routing is typical or the best.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
Paul

[patrice]

Hi,

It seams to have a trouble yes.
You should not need the winch to furl your sail.
If you leave some line loose in the cockpit and go by the furler and try to pull the line back.  It should go without restriction, if it does, then you have issue thru you blocks.
If not, your line might by to big, and getting to big in the furler drum as it accumulate, causing your trouble.
Is it hard to pull at any lenght, or just the last section

[Noah]

Don't know what brand furler you have, I agree there is some issue. I do not need any "winching" with my (ProFurl), to furl sail. Guessing something is wrong with furler system. I would start by trying to isolate the source. Is your furler system spinning freely if you bypass all blocks and pull line straight at the drum? If yes, then you know it is not leads/blocks/friction going aft--and could be the top masthead swivel, deck drum swivel, or way the line is wrapped on the drum....

[Stu Jackson]

You didn't mention a block on the aft support post of the pulpit.  We have a swivel based block there for the first fairlead from the drum, which MUST on almost all furlers I've heard of, be at 90 degrees from the drum.

Ours go outside the stanchion bases on Johnson bullet fairleads, and then to a turning block just like yours.  We have a ProFurl LCI32, and never use the winch.

[britinusa]

I'm heading to the boat in the morning, will take pics and try the suggestions.

Paul

[Stu Jackson]

Paul,

like this:

Lots depends on how high your drum is off the deck.  You may need to play around with locations.

[britinusa]

You didn't mention a block on the aft support post of the pulpit.  We have a swivel based block there for the first fairlead from the drum, which MUST on almost all furlers I've heard of, be at 90 degrees from the drum.

Ours go outside the stanchion bases on Johnson bullet fairleads, and then to a turning block just like yours.  We have a ProFurl LCI32, and never use the winch.

Perpendicular to the drum axis?

Paul

[Stu Jackson]

Perpendicular to the drum axis?

Yup, 90 degrees = perpendicular (to the forestay and the drum's side)

[britinusa]

I didn't take a pic yet, but the block on the aft pushpit is hard up against the mid rail.

ie. the line heads down to the winch, thus I get overrides unless I run the line beneath the cleat on the aft outside of the coaming.

I'm heading down the boat tomorrow and will take those pics.

(as well as lubricate with 1 touch all the blocks from the furler to the aft block.)

Paul

[Ron Hill]

Paul : There is no need to have the jib furling line go all the way aft.  Most C34 owners have the last guide block on the double footed stanchion.
 
I had some Garhauer stanchion blocks that kept the furling line outside the stanchions. 
Then from that last stanchion block the line should go to the cleat on the side combing.  If you ever want to place it on the primary winch the line will be coming from the deck - with no override. 

A few thoughts

[Roc]

Paul,
If you look at the picture near the drum, I have a block immediately after.  Then another block on the angled section of the bow pulpit.  After that, the line runs through a series of blocks on every stanchion.  The last block is on the double stanchion. From the double stanchion, I ran the line back to the aft pulpit to a ratchet block.  I rarely ever use a winch on the furling line (maybe once in 15 years).  The ratchet block holds the line while I reef in the Genoa.  I only trigger the ratchet switch in high winds.  Usually I set it with no ratchet.

[Paulus]

Need to read Noah's response.  Both the drum and the swivel head need to be washed out.  Just use a hose and keep spinning each.  PS:  need to take the sail off.  If the halyard is over top of the stay or the head of the furling system is to close to the top, this will require a winch.  This is from personal experience.
Paul

[Stu Jackson]

Ours go outside the stanchion bases on Johnson bullet fairleads, and then to a turning block just like yours. 

Just occurred to me that if you have outside tracks going outside the stanchion bases may not be possible due to the jib sheet fairleads.  We don't have an outside track.

[britinusa]

Stu, looking at your pic of the aft pushpit, your block(rachet) is near the bottom of the tube, ours is much higher! That's most likely the cause of the override on the winch.

Took longer than planned to install the AIS today (wire running issues) so I didn't get to take pics.

Going out Christmas Day (Tomorrow) and should be able to get pics taken then

Paul

[Noah]

Paul, I believe your focus is misdirected. If things are working correctly at the drum and the subsequent lead  "downstream", your need for the winch will/should be eliminated. It should take mininal effort to active the furler line.