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Messages - Ross Fisher

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16
Photo Number 2

17
I hope that this and the next photo will illustrate the way that we overcame this issue. The angle of the dodger front window is the core problem.

Regards,

Ross

18
Main Message Board / Re: Removing a Mk11 Propane locker insert.
« on: March 03, 2015, 03:25:17 PM »
In answer to Mick, no, I have not yet removed the insert and can't offer any ideas as yet.
Input from John Langford suggests that some Solenoids were bolted through the liner(insert), and some were not, in which case the swap out is relatively straight forward.
Because I am dealing with gas line jointing, I want clear access and visibility to the job.

Ross

19
I had the same problem when I had the Dodger fabricated for my C34. There was major interference between the front clears and the clutch levers. The fabricator got round this problem by cutting out a section of the clear and fabricating  a nacelle-like pod in the clear material which provided the necessary clearance.
This has worked well and avoids the major work involved in removing and relocating the clutches.

20
Main Message Board / Removing a Mk11 Propane locker insert.
« on: February 07, 2015, 01:52:28 AM »
I am in the process of replacing the propane solenoid in my 2000 Mk11. To complete the removal I need to extract the complete starboard locker insert so I can get to the screws that mount the solenoid base to the insert.
I have removed the screws from around the locker insert in the rear propane storage hatch, and need direction on how to extract the locker insert without damage.
Should I attempt to lever this out, at the risk of breaking the insert rim, or should I attempt to budge the entire unit with a hammer or mallet?
I will be very grateful for your informed advice.

Ross

21
Main Message Board / Adler Barbour Cold Machine issue
« on: March 13, 2012, 09:54:15 PM »
My 2000 Mk11 is fitted with the A-B Cold machine which has given 11 years of faultless service. However,it has recently started to give the 3 flash warning code on start up, but soon settles down and runs as normal. The warning Codes appear for perhaps 5 minutes and then all is OK. The temperature reaches normal operating range and it will run for 24+ hours without a subsequent issue or cutout.

Has anyone had similar issues? Is this an early warning sign of trouble to come, or is it an acceptable operating condition? Any help or advise will be gratefully received.

22
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing cabin sole
« on: January 07, 2011, 05:11:54 AM »
I wrote to Catalina Yachts today and this is their reply.
" We used wood patterns to make up the flooring and do not have drawings for the floors.  Even with the wood patterns, each floor was fit into the boat so that the teak and holly lines matched up exactly. "
Hence the solution is to use the old floor as patterns, and carefully line up the teak and holly lines.
Worth the research to potentially find an easier way.
Happy sailing,

Ross

23
Main Message Board / Replacing cabin sole
« on: January 01, 2011, 03:00:07 AM »
I am about to replace the cabin sole on Avventura due to delamination caused by ingress of moisture. Rather than using the old panels as templates, I wish to ask Catalina for the CAD pattern that they, (or their subcontractor,) used to cut out the profiles in the first place.
My wood worker claims that this should be a no-brainer!
Has anyone requested a copy of the CAD files from Catalina, and if so, will they supply them?

Happy sailing.

Ross

24
Main Message Board / 12V Halogen downlights
« on: December 10, 2008, 03:38:42 AM »
The internal fittings for one of my swivelling Downlights appear to have heat hardened. The female socket that takes the globe on one side and the wires on the other, has lost its spring and the connection is intermittent. Could anyone direct me to where these lights, or parts, can be sourced?

Many thanks.

Ross

25
Main Message Board / Engine Zinc
« on: May 11, 2008, 06:42:07 AM »
One of the few ( hidden) maintenance issues that I stress about is the zinc anode in the heat exchanger.
Why? I guess because it is difficult to easily check as part of my regular inspections, and also because anything that requires more effort to examine tends to be overlooked until I am really concerned about it's condition.
I checked my anode today ( 11th May 2008), for the first time since September 2007. I was pleased to learn that the anode was no more than 50% sacrificed after 8 months.
I purchased the current anode as a pack of 4 from Catalina Yachts in Australia.
Is the OEM part superior to after market replacements? I can't say for sure, but I am encouraged for my next purchase.
Let's hear your thoughts!

PS: I will install an access door one day soon!

26
Main Message Board / Re: Removing panel in front of engine Mk 11
« on: July 18, 2007, 08:41:35 PM »
Many thanks for your replies.
There are obviously differences between Mk1 and 11's in the assembly of the engine panels.
I have tried every which way to remove the panel without removing the upper horizontal panel and hatch board holders, but just do not have sufficient clearance. ( Although there are only fractions of an inch of interference.) I do not want to risk damaging the varnish or cracking the panel by forcing it.
I wiil take the path suggested by ken003 and then shave the panel so that I can get clearance without taking the whole shebang to pieces next time.

Happy sailing.

27
Main Message Board / Re: Removing panel in front of engine Mk 11
« on: July 14, 2007, 05:58:24 PM »
Mike,

Thanks for your reply.
The Panel I'm talking about is the one with the inspection hatch behind the lower steps. It allows frontal access to the engine.
How does this panel come out?
Thanks for your interest.

28
Main Message Board / Removing panel in front of engine Mk 11
« on: July 14, 2007, 06:49:55 AM »
Is there a particular process to remove the panel under the stairway that encloses the front of the engine? I wish to get clear access in and around the engine and can't work out how to get the panel out.

I have removed the 6 philips head screws but find that the panel can only be moved forward about a 1/2 inch before it fouls on the mouldings that run down the edges of the rear cabin and the head. I attempted to slide the panel up, but find that the insulation on the back of the panel interferes with this.

Any instructions and help will be gratefully received.

29
Main Message Board / Cockpit Table Hinges
« on: April 03, 2007, 05:33:28 AM »
I have a factory fitted cockpit table in my 2000 Mk2, and the white plastic hinges on the folding table supports ( props) have broken. They are branded with "IGA" on the base. Can anyone help me with contact details of the supplier?
Happy sailing!

30
Main Message Board / Re: Epoxy Barrier Coat
« on: February 08, 2007, 04:06:20 AM »
Guys,
Thanks for your response and sharing your experiences with me.
I bit the bullet and went ahead with a blast clean of the bottom of the boat and then a thorough sand.
The result is very impressive and resulted in a pristine surface which I will now paint with another light coat of epoxy, followed (whilst uncured,) with a quality anti-foul. Hopefully, this will provide a base that will last for many years with disciplined annual maintenance, and gives me the confidence to know what makes up the protective layer on the bottom of the boat.
If this sounds like self justification, it is! I spent more than I intended or wanted, but will convince myself it was money well spent!!
Cheers,

Ross

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