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Topics - Ross Fisher

#1
Main Message Board / Poor exhaust water flow
January 15, 2019, 11:26:30 PM
Checked my Heat Exchanger today by removing both end caps and examining end chambers and tubes for blockage or contamination. Seemed all OK after removing lumps and scraps of old Zincs and some seagrass. Replaced Zinc, started and test ran the engine and observed very poor flow of cooling water from the exhaust. Temperature did not go above 160, but this concerns me. What steps should I follow to investigate this problem? Thanks for your knowledge.
#2
Main Message Board / Removing engine covers - Mk 2
January 04, 2019, 11:28:46 PM
How do others remove the front and top covers from the engine compartment of the Mark 2 C34?
The front panel of my boat will not allow removal unless I remove the Rear Cabin door panel. It is a PITA!
There has to be an easier way.
I do not know how to remove the top cover.
Any and all tips or suggestions will be absolutely welcomed.

Happy New year!!!!
Ross
#3
Can anyone help me out with a Kubota part Number ( or other equivalent part No.) for the double prong oil pressure switch that is used on the M35B engine?  The Universal/Westerbeke part number is 37323. Sourcing the Westerbeke part is very expensive from Australia, as it involves high shipping costs (on top of the inflated Westerbeke prices). Kubota parts are a much-preferred local alternative. Many thanks for your help.
Ross
#4
Main Message Board / Whisker pole deployment
January 31, 2017, 02:26:09 AM
Hi all,

I have a 13.5 Ft Selden Pole to match my 135% genoa.
This works efficiently in many downwind angles but has limitations.
When sailing close to directly downwind, the forward stay prevents the pole from being brought back far enough to become really effective.
To overcome this, I have deployed the pole between the forward stay and the mainstay, but this is a high risk maneuver and my rigger says should be avoided.
Have other members approached, and possibly resolved this issue?
I will welcome your suggestions.
#5
I am in the process of replacing the propane solenoid in my 2000 Mk11. To complete the removal I need to extract the complete starboard locker insert so I can get to the screws that mount the solenoid base to the insert.
I have removed the screws from around the locker insert in the rear propane storage hatch, and need direction on how to extract the locker insert without damage.
Should I attempt to lever this out, at the risk of breaking the insert rim, or should I attempt to budge the entire unit with a hammer or mallet?
I will be very grateful for your informed advice.

Ross
#6
My 2000 Mk11 is fitted with the A-B Cold machine which has given 11 years of faultless service. However,it has recently started to give the 3 flash warning code on start up, but soon settles down and runs as normal. The warning Codes appear for perhaps 5 minutes and then all is OK. The temperature reaches normal operating range and it will run for 24+ hours without a subsequent issue or cutout.

Has anyone had similar issues? Is this an early warning sign of trouble to come, or is it an acceptable operating condition? Any help or advise will be gratefully received.
#7
Main Message Board / Replacing cabin sole
January 01, 2011, 03:00:07 AM
I am about to replace the cabin sole on Avventura due to delamination caused by ingress of moisture. Rather than using the old panels as templates, I wish to ask Catalina for the CAD pattern that they, (or their subcontractor,) used to cut out the profiles in the first place.
My wood worker claims that this should be a no-brainer!
Has anyone requested a copy of the CAD files from Catalina, and if so, will they supply them?

Happy sailing.

Ross
#8
Main Message Board / 12V Halogen downlights
December 10, 2008, 03:38:42 AM
The internal fittings for one of my swivelling Downlights appear to have heat hardened. The female socket that takes the globe on one side and the wires on the other, has lost its spring and the connection is intermittent. Could anyone direct me to where these lights, or parts, can be sourced?

Many thanks.

Ross
#9
Main Message Board / Engine Zinc
May 11, 2008, 06:42:07 AM
One of the few ( hidden) maintenance issues that I stress about is the zinc anode in the heat exchanger.
Why? I guess because it is difficult to easily check as part of my regular inspections, and also because anything that requires more effort to examine tends to be overlooked until I am really concerned about it's condition.
I checked my anode today ( 11th May 2008), for the first time since September 2007. I was pleased to learn that the anode was no more than 50% sacrificed after 8 months.
I purchased the current anode as a pack of 4 from Catalina Yachts in Australia.
Is the OEM part superior to after market replacements? I can't say for sure, but I am encouraged for my next purchase.
Let's hear your thoughts!

PS: I will install an access door one day soon!
#10
Is there a particular process to remove the panel under the stairway that encloses the front of the engine? I wish to get clear access in and around the engine and can't work out how to get the panel out.

I have removed the 6 philips head screws but find that the panel can only be moved forward about a 1/2 inch before it fouls on the mouldings that run down the edges of the rear cabin and the head. I attempted to slide the panel up, but find that the insulation on the back of the panel interferes with this.

Any instructions and help will be gratefully received.
#11
Main Message Board / Cockpit Table Hinges
April 03, 2007, 05:33:28 AM
I have a factory fitted cockpit table in my 2000 Mk2, and the white plastic hinges on the folding table supports ( props) have broken. They are branded with "IGA" on the base. Can anyone help me with contact details of the supplier?
Happy sailing!
#12
Main Message Board / Epoxy Barrier Coat
February 02, 2007, 05:56:03 PM
I have just hauled my boat to re-do the anti-fouling and anodes. I have had the bottom water blasted to remove the built up weed and coral that has accumulated since last anti-foul ( approx 16 months ago.)
The anti-foul has not lasted well and there are a number of patches on the hull where the paint has disappeared, and  a thick build up of marine life has occured on these spots.
My shipwright claims that the epoxy barrier coat has not been "keyed" and that the anti-foul is not bonding properly to the epoxy and falling off.
He is proposing that sanding the hull will not cure the issue, and that I should spend some $1500 to have the hull sand-blasted to form a keyed surface.
When I hauled the boat 4 months ago to have it surveyed, the anti-foul coverage was thinning but consistent. There were no bare spots at that time.
Does this suggestion sound reasonable? Does a good sanding normally provide a key for the anti-foul? What experiences have other owners had with paint bonding to the barrier coat?
Your advise and experiences will be gratefully appreciated.