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If you're cooling water intake is coming out of the water, you very likely aren't motoring because it would take a near knock-down to expose that thru-hull to the air.

I wondered what was going on over there when I browsed over yesterday. Seems like it might die a slow death if it stays locked down.

Does anyone know of a source for a bracket used to attach teak steps to the SS boarding ladder?  My boat came with 3 teak step pads, but they weren't installed and don't have brackets to attach them to the SS tubing on the ladder. 

For clarity sake, the M25XPB is also self-bleeding/priming, just like the M35.

Here's what the manual for each says about bleeding fuel:

"If it becomes necessary to bleed air from the on engine fuel
system, tum the panel key ON and impenitently (5- 10 seconds)
activate the pre-hear circuit. This activates the fuel pump which draws fuel into the on engine fuel system and drives air out via the fuel return.

If high pressure injector lines need to be bled, loosen the
injector line nut at each injector, open the throttle and crank
the engine over until fuel sports from between the nut and
line. the secure the nuts and start the engine as normal."

Here's what my handrails look like with one coat of Semco Honeytone:

Ditto Lazybone's location. Ours is also in the forward settee with the knot meter wheel. We also have a wing keel and seem to get accurate depth readings with no issues.  However, if it were under the v-berth, the storage under the forward settee would be more open without the transducer/wiring.

Anyone ever used Sea Wizard Marine Canvas for cockpit cushions?  I spoke with the owner a couple of weeks ago and was told their cushions are constructed with Textilene Sunsure fabric, 2" thick waterproof closed-cell foam, and Sunbrella trim piping, stitched together with UV resistant thread.  Price was $525 (plus $10 shipping), which seems very fair.  I ordered some yesterday and will report back when they arrive.

Wow. Sobering post and photos.  Glad you weren't out at sea with the sails up.  Great job getting her safely to a dock too.

Also based on Mainesail's recommendations, I just installed a Sterling ProCharge Ultra.  In fact, I finished the installation last night and turned on the power for the first time.  I'm definitely not an electrical guru, but the Sterling chargers are programmable, quiet and affordable.  So far I'm happy, but I'll let you know the real verdict after I've used it for a longer period.

I gave up with Cetol. Started using a product called "Semco".

We had Cetol on our last boat, but I'm going to give Semco a try this spring.  I've heard good things.

Looks like my water heater is rusted out at the base and is ready for replacement. I haven't had a chance to look yet this spring, but i'm wondering if i'm loosing engine coolant somewhere in the water heater loop.

Thanks everyone. I don't see any coolant on the pan under the engine or anywhere obvious in the bilge. When I remove the coolant cap on the engine, the engine is completely full with coolant, it's just the overflow bottle that is showing a low level.

I was at the boat recently prepping her for spring launch and noticed that the coolant in the overflow reservoir is below the "low" line.  I seem to recall it being properly between the "low" and "high" marks last fall.  Have the crazy cold winter temps messed with the fluid or perhaps I have a leak somewhere?  Any cause for concern?

I've got the same thing going on.  I have my C34 covered dry and tight for winter, but found a nice frozen block of ice to the top of the bilge pump when I went and check on her last weekend.  The floorboard in front of the mast has a wet spot at the base, right next to the mast.  Looks like I'll have to figure something out to seal things up better next winter. 

The first C34 ketch?