Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - kwaltersmi

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 9
1
Main Message Board / Re: Travelers on C34
« on: August 24, 2017, 05:17:55 AM »
If we're cruising I use the traveler a lot for adjustments, mainly to keep me occupied.  If we're lazy day sailing, I rarely touch it.  I use it most by bringing the boom up to windward when pinching hard on a close reach.

2
Catalina 34s for Sale / 1987 C34 Wk/TR - Muskegon, MI
« on: August 22, 2017, 06:37:52 AM »
Selling our 1987 C34 wing keel/tall rig. She's in good condition with many upgrades including a new (2010) Universal M25XPB (~300 hours).

-Engine oil, transmission fluid, impeller, and fuel filters (x3) all changed annually
-New mainsail (w/ Lazy Jacks) and genoa (both from UK Sails) in 2012
-Lightly used/like new spinnaker and extendable spinnaker pole
-New aluminum fuel tank installed in 2015
-New ss lifelines (no vinyl coating) installed in 2011
-Bimini and dodger with connector
-New shore power wiring installed by Torresen Marine in 2011
-All exterior/interior lighting is LED
-New (2012) West Marine VHF500dsc
-New ultra-leather cabin cushions in 2012 (all sofas and aft cabin berth)
-Custom teak and maple dinette table (original table also included)
-Custom hinged and engraved cabin doors (original hatch boards also included)
-Custom zippered companionway screen
-New Raymarine ST6001 autopilot installed by Torresen Marine in 2012
-Raymarine ST50 multi-data (depth, speed, log) and ST50 wind speed/direction
-Garmin GPSMap 172 installed at below-deck nav station
-3 Group 27 batteries new in 2014 with Perko selector switches
-New Lewmar (in 2010) 40" 6-spoke foldable steering wheel with leather wrap
-New cockpit cushions (2014)
-All sail control lines and halyards lead to cockpit. 4 total winches (2 cabin top halyard winches, 2 primary sheet winches)
-Original steel storage cradle from Catalina included
-Full custom winter cover made from marine grade Top Gun fabric by The Canvas Store
-New (2015) ProCharge Ultra 12v-20a smart charger
-New 2000gph bilge pump and new discharge hose (2017)
-Adler Babour refrigeration
-2 burner propane stove and oven with sealed/vented propane locker in the cockpit
-Starboard cockpit table (new in 2015)

Asking $39,000.

Contact: kwaltersmi at yahoo dot com

More photos and details upon request.







3
Main Message Board / Re: Synthetic Teak Decking
« on: July 11, 2017, 07:01:30 AM »
Very nice. Looking forward to seeing the pics after installation.  What brand did you go with? 

4
Main Message Board / Re: engine instrument panel
« on: June 21, 2017, 09:40:18 AM »
What else can be learned from the picture?

You need fuel soon.

5
Main Message Board / Re: New Cat'34 Owner
« on: June 14, 2017, 05:43:00 AM »
3.  Batteries are boiling off water and I have to top off occasionally.  Apparently the charger is overdoing its job.  Is this typical and is a charger repair worth it or should I just buy a new charger?

One of my first upgrades when we purchased our C34 was to replace the humming OEM Charles Industries charger with a new "smart" charger. We went with a Sterling ProCharge Ultra and are very happy. The cost was less than $300 and the install was fairly simple. User Mainesail has a great write-up on the charger and installs.

6
Main Message Board / Re: Anchor rode
« on: June 12, 2017, 12:49:22 PM »
Why do you have/need the middle cleat on deck? It seems to me like it would just be any extra annoyance to trip on.

I use the middle cleat for anchoring and the port/starboard cleats for docking.

7
Main Message Board / Re: Anchor rode
« on: June 12, 2017, 06:06:42 AM »
I've got 4 cleats at my bow. One on each side (port/starboard), one in the middle and one in the anchor locker. I use the middle cleat for the anchor rode when it's deployed and the cleat in the anchor locker when the anchor is up and stored on the roller.

8
With the new oberdorfer installed, is it necessary to prime it on first starting the engine?   If so does one prime it by just filling up the inlet hose with the bleeder loosened on the pump?

No priming was necessary for me.

9
I put the 908 on my XPB this past weekend. Fairly simple install with just a bit of grinding needed on one of the hose barbs for clearance with the other elbow fitting. It probably took me 2 hours from start to finish with clean-up and a run test.

10
Thanks! I think I saw the hose barb mod photos in the Wiki. Do you know the size of the hose barb fitting?  I might see if I can buy a new one and do the mod at home before I travel out to the boat this weekend for the install since I won't have access to a grinder while at the boat to mod the existing barb fitting.

11
I ordered the Oberdorfer N202M-908 from Depco and will be doing the install this weekend (if it arrives in time).  Thanks for the input. 

12
Ok, got it. I should replace with the Oberdorfer.  But is the N202M-16 a direct replacement for the Sherwood on my M25XPB?  Or do I need the N202M-908? Or something else? 

13
I launched today with my M25 XPB and the Sherwood pump is leaking. After opening it up to check the impeller, it looks like the rubber on the seal (Parts 10 through 12 - 30288X) was torn and was coming out.  It dripped about 1 drop every 2 seconds at idle on launch, but quit dripping altogether once I was underway for the 3 mile motor to my marina. No dripping when I arrived at my dock.

So...

Should I replace the seal in the Sherwood pump?  Is this difficult to do?  Should I swap in the Oberdorfer (is it 908?) pump instead? Should I leave it alone and wait for it to leak again even though part of the rubber from the seal came out of the pump when I opened prior to motoring to my marina?


14
Main Message Board / Re: Bilge pump and float switch
« on: April 18, 2017, 06:13:05 AM »
My float switch failed, so I just replaced mine on Saturday with a 2000 automatic (internal float switch) wired to a 2-way fused switch on the panel. I did not use the manual hot wire, so I sealed it off.  I also replaced the discharge hose. Mine was routed from the transom (about 6" above waterline) over the top of the propane locker shelf (to get it well above the waterline to prevent backflow/siphoning), then down to the bottom of the bilge on the port side under the head compartment and finally to the middle bilge just aft of the mast.

15
Main Message Board / Re: Refinishing Teak / Brightwork
« on: March 15, 2017, 06:56:22 AM »
I've tried Cetol, Semco, varnish, natural, and teak oil. I'm currently using teak oil after an annual cleaning since the application is simple and a late summer (usually by August) touch up keeps things looking good.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 9