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Messages - jmnpe

Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9]
121
Main Message Board / Re: Where to Purchase genoa for my new Cat. 34
« on: August 26, 2006, 09:21:44 PM »
Another positive feedback for Bacon. I had a very good experience with them, and a number of active sailors I know on the Texas Gulf coast have had similar experiences. They rate their used sails what I would consider very conservatively. Most of the people I know that have used them would have rated the sails they got at least 1 or 2 levels higher than advertised. Not only that, their web site has an inventory search tool that is great: just tell it what kind of boat you have and what sail you are looking for, and it will spit out a whole list of candidate sails.

Have a look: www. baconsails.com

John

122
Main Message Board / Re: Fridge failure Adler Barbour
« on: August 26, 2006, 09:09:04 PM »
Stu,

I'm not sure that I have a good complete explanation for what you are seeing, although I have some observations and maybe a related explanation.

All of the Adler Barbour compressors made before about 1998, give or take, had a very high starting current of 17 amps at a nominal 12 volts. The "newer" ones are started gently by a more gradual application of voltage to the motor, rather than the "slam" start used in the older units. When the source impedance of the voltage source is very low, as it would be with well changed batteries that are well connected to the load, the starting transient only lasts for a short period of time ( 100 milliseconds +/- ??? ), and then the motor comes up to speed quickly enough that the high current doesn't last long enough for an analog or sampled digital ammeter to ever register the current spike. This is apparently just what you are seeing when you have a charging source connected to the batteries ( i.e. - the alternator or shore power ), and is in fact what you should generally see with batteries only. However, the fact that you see the weird, somewhat erratic current demonstrations when there are no charging source sources applied to the batteries makes me suspect that the compressor is seeing a badly sagging voltage at times.

Since low voltage will make a DC motor draw more current, I suspect that the long-enough-to-see ammeter reading at about 10 amps is when the motor is unable to get up to speed enough to cause the motor current to decrease to the lower correct value associated with higher/normal operating speed. When the 10 amp reading is maintained and the fridge continues to operate, the compressor motor continues to see a low voltage. When it goes to 10 amps, but then comes up to 5 amps, the compressor motor slowly managed to get up to "normal" operating speed, and the current reduces appropriately. When it goes to 10 amps and then shuts down, you probably had a voltage present that was low enough that the built-in low voltage shut-off of the compressor controller shut it down. All of this is, of course, long distance educated guessing.

The short answer is that I think you have a connection problem that is minimized or eliminated when you have either of your charging sources applied to the DC bus. What you should be looking for is a wiring configuration where the charge sources are connected ( in either the ground or 12 volt side, or even both ) electrically "closer" to the feed points to the fridge than the basic battery feed point connections. The problem you are looking for is between the batteries and the charge source connection points in the DC distribution paths. The way to get started is to connect your digital volt meter between the battery terminals and their respective path ends right at the compressor feed terminals on the compressor "pallet", and look for voltage drops across the 12 volt path, and then the ground path.  Once you find an obviously large voltage drop, start moving your measurement point away from the battery end of the path and closer to the compressor. From what you are describing, I wouldn't be surprised if most of the drop is in only one feed line. The voltage drop should mostly go away by the time you reach the point where your charging sources connect along the paths. The internal fuse in the control unit or the fridge CB should be okay since they have to be down stream of the charge source connection points into the DC distribution busses.

Hope this gives you some place to start looking.

John

123
Hi Bob,

I had a 1991 C34 with the 16K Mermaid, and it drew about 14 amps. The water pump draws about 2 amps or a little more if it is the Marsh pump. The 6 gallon water heater draws 12.5 amps, which gives a near maximum load of 28.5 amps. On our previous 1991, I had problems with all of the high amperage breakers, but it wasn't the breaker's fault. The culprit was the push-on spade terminals and bare copper wire used to hook into the breakers. Once the spade terminal connections got hot from a full load, they got a little looser on the CB terminal, and the next time they got hot again it became a vicious circle of looser connections and higher contact temperatures. The water heater feed spade terminal and wire from the breaker finally got hot enough that everything started to melt and smoke. The main 30 amp CB also looked pretty bad. I finally had to replace wires and terminals on both breakers with good quality terminals ( Anchor Marine ) crimped with a good ratcheting crimper, and of course cleaned up the mating spades on the associated CBS to reduce the contact resistance. I never had any trouble for the remaining several years we had the boat.

Hope this answers your questions.

John

124
Main Message Board / Re: Fridge failure
« on: August 15, 2006, 09:28:20 PM »
Doug, I feel your pain. As soon as I read your posting I was saying to myself "It's the fuse", having repeated your scenario myself at least once. Turns out Ohm's Law still works.... If you measure voltage until you add a load, it almost always means a bad connection, including a bad fuse.

The fan draws air through the evaporator and discharges it across the compressor as it comes from the factory. However, AB will tell you that it is OK to reverse the fan so that it blows the other way if that allows you to get the hot air away from the unit more effectively than with the factory configuration. Sometimes the factory configuration will draw cool air into a compartment, but without enough pressure to get the hot air out, and you end up getting a terrible heat rise in the compartment.

John

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