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Messages - captran

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14
1
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing old Adler barbour
« on: August 12, 2019, 03:24:30 PM »
about 8 years ago our Adler Barbor stopped working while out for the summer.  Nearest company to us was in Bellingham Wa.  Guy came out and checked a few things and said it was just the thermostat and offered to fix it for cheap.  But he had one of their units with him, about half the size of the AB unit.  We decided to replace it then with the Sea Freeze unit.  We didn't have to replace the condenser.  But Bellingham is a long way from you, but thought I'd send you the link.  http://www.seafreezeinc.com/

2
Main Message Board / Re: location of blower- update
« on: August 12, 2019, 12:25:25 PM »
Followed the blower hose until it disappeared toward the back of the underside of the boat. emptied out the aft port locker and found the blower just before the  stern "cowling"(plastic on my 1997).  It says "DetMar Corporation BLOWER  with IS) 9097" and  fuse info.  Don't know if there was a loose wire or what, but as I checked all the connections, looking for a fuse wire,(which I couldn't find), I was about to give up ,but clicked on the switch and it was working (and continued every time I turned it on during the next 6 weeks). Maybe there was strain on the wiring, or maybe it was a little corrosion on the switch. Maybe it's one of life's mysteries.

3
Main Message Board / Re: Question on Engine Hours
« on: August 12, 2019, 11:59:00 AM »
Ours is a 1997.  It had about 266 hours when we bought her in 2001.  The hour meter on the tach stopped at 388 during our second trip to the Bahamas. I found a place in Marsh Harbor that had a stand alone hour meter that I mounted on a bracket attached to the underside of the board the fridge compressor is mounted on.  When I fuel, it's easy to open that locker and see the hours.  at the end of this years cruise, I have about 2100 hours on the new meter.  I also motor more that I prefer, and our typical summer cruise is 8-10 weeks, so that's about 2400 total hours on a boat that is 22 years old, just a smidge over 100 hours per year.  Seems like we put more hours on the engine cruising in the Northwest than when we were in the Bahamas.

4
Main Message Board / Re: location of blower
« on: June 18, 2019, 11:37:20 AM »
Thank you both for your reply.  I have a Mark 2 (1997) but will look again.  I saw the white flexible hoses that are on both sides of the bilge near the dripless shaft and water strainer but couldn't see where it went.  I'll also open up the instrument panel and look for a fuse.  I can test to see if there is power to the switch, as that's within my basic "skill" set, but will have to figure out how to test the fuse and line from the switch to the blower.  Makes sense if power is at the switch . then look at if power is at the connection to the blower, assuming I can locate it OK.  I've owned Voyager since 01 and every year either the area to work in is getting smaller or I am getting older.  also, great idea of using the blower to vent exhaust fumes in case of failure!

5
Main Message Board / Re: Advice Requested: Battery Monitors
« on: June 17, 2019, 09:50:53 AM »
The original owner put a link 20 system, which was easy to re do when I did repairs due to a hurrican's fresh water getting in.  seems to work well.

6
Main Message Board / location of blower
« on: June 17, 2019, 09:46:16 AM »
I read through trying to search blower location without success.  A few years ago I turned the blower switch on at the instrument panel and nothing happened.  Didn't really use it regularly, so no idea whether its a switch issue or a blower issue, or when it went out.  But not sure of where the blower is even located to see if it's getting power, or how I should test the leads to the switch on the panel.  Any advice appreciated.  If other issues don't take precedence, I'd like to try to get a look at this this summer.  I need a boat systems for dummies level book.  I have a few boat repair and maint books aboard, 300 miles away.

7
Main Message Board / Re: Any idea what this is for?
« on: August 27, 2016, 07:54:06 AM »
I saw something similar on a boat once that was on a life line and they kept extra propane bottles in the "sleeves".

8
Main Message Board / Re: Hx Zinc Seal
« on: July 07, 2016, 04:43:05 PM »
Thanks to the advice and guidance of Jack H, who recommended when changing out my hot water heater, we had minimal fluid loss, hooking up two pigtails on the back side of the heater to facilitate rehooking up the lines.  worked like a charm, no need to burp the engine and heat exchanger and hot water heater are working perfectly!

9
Main Message Board / Re: How does the wing keel sail?
« on: June 25, 2016, 09:16:46 PM »
we contacted Dudley Boat hauling after hearing they deliver the new 35's.  but this was in 2005.  It wasn't cheap, about 8,000 then.  they did a great job.  We sailed the Bahamas and kept the boat in Florida and in 04 had all those hurricanes hit fort pierce.  every boat including mine to and to the south was knocked down.  some fresh rainwater did some wood and instrument damage.  replaced all that and have been sailing the NW ever since- sheesh, this is our 12th year back.  the Bahamas is awesome, but hurricanes not so much.  they also have a float on transportation ship that stops in Vancover BC, La Paz and then Florida.  Called Dockwise if I remember correctly.  but I think it has gotten so dang expensive.  ps  sorry for the delayed response.  been getting the house ready to head off for the summer.

10
Main Message Board / Maxwell windlass VC500 maintainence oil
« on: June 15, 2016, 12:28:30 PM »
I did a search on the message board and came up empty on this question.  The manual says Shell Omala 320 or Castrol SP320 or equivilant gear oil.  Don't often use my windlass but thinking it's overdue for changing out the oil.  I see places on line that sell 5 gallons of the Shell product.  Anyone in the NW have a source for gear oil and a preference?  thanks

11
Main Message Board / Re: PSS shaft seal
« on: June 07, 2016, 04:33:02 PM »
The first time it happened I was in the Bahamas and was very concerned and spent hours poking around.  seems like in certain wave and angle of heel conditions, I would get a little air lock in the bellows.  burped it and it was fine.  now, just as a precaution, I burp it occasionally, especially after a rough crossing of the strait of Georgia.  that seems to have taken care of it.  also, just recently went ahead and replaced the old PSS with a new one, as it had been over 10 years.  nothing looked bad, but thought it was worth it.  while I was at it, replaced the shaft, as the mechanic said he thought it was slightly bent.  I had them give me the original, and rolled it on a level floor and sure don't see any "bend", but, Oh well, "B.O.A.T."

12
Main Message Board / Re: How does the wing keel sail?
« on: June 07, 2016, 04:24:15 PM »
Definitely does not point as high into the wind as a deeper fin keel.  I sailed a Newport 30 for 7 years in the NW and it was clearly able to point higher into the wind.  But I have had my wing keel Catalina since 2001.  Sailed it for 5 years in the Bahamas (summers only), from Florida to and from the islands, including the Abacos, Berry Islands, Nassau and the Exumas, and now in the Northwest with trips up to Desolation sound.  Slogging it to windward is wet either way and we reef early or even drop the main and sail comfortably with the jib.  Motored into 6 to 8' seas from the Berries to Nassau which had green water coming over the bow.  Seems like a solid boat and the wing keel got us into places that would be marginal with the fin.

13
If you need to replace the unit:  I just changed out my hot water heater, (1997, Mark 2) under the guidance of Jack Hutteball, who recently did his.  Last year my 11 year old water heater started leaking and I could not find any apparent source, no leaks on fittings.  A new S 600 with the back heat exchanger tubes was $250.  at Sure Marine in Seattle.  Removed two batteries closest to the hot water heater.  Also had to move the isolator to make more room.  easy to disconnect wiring and in and out water hoses from the front of the unit.  hard to reach the clamps in the back to the heat exchanger hoses, but tilted it first to one side and then to the others and got them off.  Jack plugged the hoses as they came out so had very little coolant escape.  Jack had suggested we put a pigtail on the back of each of the heat exchanger hoses so that connection can be super tight.  (I put 2 clamps on each hose at the back of the heat exchanger).  We then make the connection using copper couplings to join the pigtail to the lines, from inside the sink and drawer cabinet.  (the drawer cabinet slides out as far as where the stove door allows to give you access to work on the outermost heat exchanger line.)  Took about 7 -10 minutes running the water pressure bleeding out the air, opening and closing the faucet.  Electric side of the heater is working great.  Will still need to figure out how to bleed the heat exchanger lines.  But, if you don't have to switch out the unit you are way ahead!

14
Main Message Board / Re: Hot Water Heater - Kuuma brand replacement
« on: August 20, 2015, 07:30:52 AM »
thanks Jack.  , hope to be in touch in the spring to take a look.  my bulkhead looks like its screwed on, but with all the hoses , I'd rather drop it in as you did.  we're at Cap Sante today till noon, but sounds like you'll be off on your way.  safe travels

15
took out the batteries to see if I could get a bead on where the cup of water a day is coming from.  Clearly with the water on, it is seeping from somewhere in the hot water heater, so I am looking for info I posted in an earlier reply on the kuuma vs catalina direct.  and also, the board that covers that compartment at the bottom, that is the support for batteries as well as on which the additional board that the hot water heater sits on.  I don't know the exact measurements without removing the hot water heater and all batteries, so I don't know if Catalina direct stocks that, or I wait until haul out and spring replacement of hot water heater, and measure the board then.  But it would be nice if they already have it in stock so that could be done at the same time I have the hot water heater switched out.   any ideas appreciated.

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