Messages

Also, make sure that shutdown T bar is pushed down fully, I was scratching my head for hours, why engine doesn't start....lesson learned.

Great tip. While troubleshooting, I ensured the handle was in the correct position and confirmed the linkage was returning fully as well.

Also remember if you let the engine turn over for more than 30 seconds or so you can be pumping raw water into the engine via the muffler system.  If you crank for a while you have to drain the muffler or you'll have really big problems. 

I will double check this, however we didn't crank on her too long, was afraid to kill the battery. I will check the muffler when I get back tot he boat this weekend before moving forward though!

Stf : When asking about "not starting" identify engine cranks , but will not start!!  I assume that the your engine turns over (cranks)??  Sounds to me like a fuel problem!  Also check your Racor filter bowel for WATER!!

Not too sure about your wire question as the addition of a solenoid has nothing to do with the starter or starting battery.  Follow Capt Als instructions!!

I always keep my bleed valve cracked at about 1/4 turn ON so I have a "self bleeding" fuel system.

The solenoid mod ensures efficient glow plug performance, and seeing as how I didn't feel a ton of heat coming from them, I might as well do the mod.

Thanks for the information on the bleed screw!

[Battery]

Hi All,
I went out to start her up for the first time this season today and experienced a no start. I didn't feel that the glow plugs were getting hot enough, so I'm hoping thats my issue. As I don't know the age of the plugs, I've ordered new ones and going to do the Solenoid mod (found https://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Faster%2C_More_Efficient_Glow_Plug_Heating_with_a_Solenoid. However, I feel like I've seen conflicting information.

From a wiring prospective, should I be connecting to the Starter or the Starting Battery positive post? I've seen BOTH ways mentioned.

ALSO

Should the "knurl" bleed screw be full open (counter clockwise/Fuel pump clicking constantly) OR should it be fully closed (tight clockwise/slow clicks) for normal operations? When bleeding the engine, should the pump clicks slow down with full counterclockwise?

Also, on occasion when starting, I would get a single click, other times she would turn over just fine (I plan to go back and clean connectors, ensure everything is crimped correctly/not corroded). Any other thoughts on that outside of what I've mentioned?

Thanks, everyone!

Hi Bob,
I sent you a PM.

Hello!

My wife and I are looking for a solid, well maintained 80s/90s c34 anywhere on the East/Gulf coast in the next 60-90 days.

If you are wrapping up your final season or have considered selling, please let me know.

Thank you