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Yeah... no snaps on the hatch.  Even with good adhesives, they aren't likely to stay there.

It is likely open to the core if not directly, it will be through the pocketa and voids in the laminate/layup.  I would recommend taking care of it before winter.

Jack,

Tried to reach you via private message, and left a VM on the number you provided.  When you're free, please reach out.

Stu,

Well, when you put it that way.  I guess l, selfishly, I was looking forward to meeting you out on the water.  Since I bought my boat 5 years ago, I have been unfortunately more busy than I thought I'd be with a BIG house remodel that I'm doing.  This project has chewed up a lot of my reserve time for longer getaways.  So... that's on me ;-) 

I'm happy to hear of your long run with Aquavite.  The memories are priceless (just like the ones from my parent's Gulfstar they had till I was 11 which set the hook for me getting my own boat).

Good luck with the sale Stu!

Stu,

Are you buying something else or are you throwing out the BIG anchor?

Stu... is YOUR boat for sale?!?

Noah,

Interesting data.  I know of a buddy of mine who has the same unit and he hasn't had trouble with his and he was a full time liveaboard.  That would seem to be a good teat case.  He had his sensor located durectly under his stove in the galley.  With propane being heavier than air, your choices of location do seem prudent.

Have you known of any other brands or models to be more robust/less false alarms?

I'm with Sure Marine... retrofitting thermocouple protection just isn't a thing.  The thermocouple is part of the actual burner control knob so unless the stove was built that way, it is just not possible to retrofit.

I'll second Jon's comments here that adding a propane sniffer that in addition to a horn, shuts off the propane solonoid is a resonable upgrade if missing, but asking someone to purchase a new stove seems pretty unreasonable.  A quick note, the propane sniffer that controls the propane solonoid would evenually shut off the gas flow in the event a flame when out unanttended, but it would take a bit of gas before that happen. 

This is the one Sure sells that I bought.

https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Propane-Fume-Detectors/P-1BS-R_3.html?srsltid=AfmBOorvVKBx-9TVtJFlobtzGRjeJxXozdK2kbaAvhS94Qd5KpOQx6Oc

Sure marine is a good resource.  That said, thermocouple retrofit might not be easy.  Those types of safety devices are integrated into the stove's engineering.

Give Sure a call as they will know.

Different idea than what you use here, but I saw Sailing Project Atticus (youtube) use nylong stuff sacks for things that were color coded.  It was a pretty brilliant idea in that one just needed to find the "blue" back when sifting through the box vs taking all the thi gs out till what you were looking for was found.

It sort of depends on how much you are talking about.  I pretty much always have some steam on my M35 with an Oberdorfer that I installed a while back.  It is a very small amount of wispy steam that looks a bit like what you'll see off hot coffee or tea on a cold day.  In other words, not much.  The engine temp is at 165 and the general temps of the hoses and things I can touch all seem to be in spec, so I have just decided to leave it alone for now.  I still would like to try improving the general flow by removing the 90s off the inlet and outlet of the oberdorfer and actually removing the heat exchanger to have it boiled at a radiator shop (I cleaned it manually with barnacle buster and mechanical clearing while it was in situ).  But... that will be when I can find a "round - tuit" next time I'm out shopping.

There is a foam mesh type "band" that goes around the perforated metal cage inside the silencer.  I bought mine from a local Universal parts dealer in my area.  If you look up the parts catalog for the M35, you'll get a part number for it that you can then order from a supplier.  Mine was completely gone when I got the boat. 

As for the breather inlet, I'd suggest using the boss that is there on the intake.  I haven't done mine yet, but that is what I was planning to do.

The "--" at the display does indicate no transducer signal.  A 0.0 will at least let you know that it can see the speed transducer.  If you have 0.0 while underway, your paddle wheel is likely stuck.  You might want to try replacing the small female spade connectors on the transducer where it connects to the instrument.  They are a specific size not available at the hardware store.  I got mine at the local chandlery.  The wires are very small so when I replaced mine, I doubled up the wire to provide a bit more girth in the crimp of the connector.

As for the depth transducer, it is not removeable like the speed transducer.  It is installed like a thru-hull fitting and sealed to the hull.  Your electronics guy is correct that it must be replaced out of the water.  There are no moving parts in that transducer though.

So, do you have a dedicated display head for that speed/temp transducer?  I am wondering if your paddlewheel is just fouled.

Snazzy!!