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Messages - ptidwell

#1
Quote from: Ron Hill on January 28, 2023, 01:52:41 PM
Paul : Please list you Hull # and production year. 

A thought

Added!
#2
Catalina 34, Hull 929, Production Year 1989

I noticed a crack in the forestay stem fitting similar to the one described by this post: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=6250.0 and asked a rigger to have a look at it as part of a general safety inspection.  She noted it should be repaired and referred me to a local weld shop in Ballard (Monkey Fist Marine).  They had a look and told me not to sail the boat until it is repaired.  At $125 per hour, they estimated it will cost from $2500 to $3000.  (or just 3 boat bucks).

After inspecting the stem fitting and chainplate today, it appeared to me that it may have been defective. It appears the metal chainplate strap is about 3 to 6mm too long leaving the stem fitting lifted off the deck.  See image. 
(https://photos.app.goo.gl/g1q3hVd1a2jsN7ug6)

In the image I drew red lines showing the current angle of the fitting, and green to show the angle that look more correct and would direct the force in a way that would not apply stress to the stem fitting.

Has anyone seen this before?  Does the price and urgency seem right?  Does my observation about the chainplate being a bit too long seem valid?

Cheers!
Paul

#3
Quote from: Noah on September 29, 2021, 07:36:49 PM
P- 6(?) years ago I did a complete electrical upgrade. Here are some pics. Pic. 1 in my Blue Sea distribution panel. I do not use the AB/Both switch. I have a separate switch on my house bank. Pic. 2. I also have two switches in the aft cabin for my start battery. Pic. 3 . One switch is a simple off/on for engine battery. The other switch is an emergency switch that combines the two banks if required. I have never had to use that feature. Pic. 4 is my wiring diagram.

Noah, thanks for sharing!  That is very helpful. 
#4
Next question: Did you install a battery switch?  If so where did you mount it?
#5
Quote from: Noah on September 29, 2021, 01:58:13 AM
My Echo charger is mounted inside the water heater side door.

I did the same. I actually attached it to the railing that holds the center kitchen drawer in place as there is a trash receptacle attached to the door.  It means I need to get down on my hands and knees to see the LED, but hopefully that will not be necessary often.
#6
Quote from: Noah on September 28, 2021, 07:57:47 AM
Here is a link to a thread which has a photo of how I mounted my Group 24, sealed flooded start/reserve battery.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10974.msg86663.html#msg86663

Noah, thanks for sharing.  I like the little platform you built.  Do the screws go into the hull?  How deep can you drill into the hull?
#7
Quote from: Kyle Ewing on September 27, 2021, 07:53:45 PM
ptidwell,

I added the dedicated start battery and high output alternator with external regulator at the same time.  I put the battery under the aft cabin, starboard side.  I used an Optima bluetop group 34 AGM battery because I wanted something that would be completely maintenance free and that I could mount at an angle because of the hull shape.   

The Xantrex echo charge has kept it alive for eight seasons.  Hopefully it'll stay alive for a few more!

Kyle, your battery choice looks like a good one. I will likely need to upgrade mine to something like that.  How did you secure the battery?  Did you build something with fiberglass?  This is a road I have yet to travel.
#8
Quote from: Stu Jackson on September 27, 2021, 04:41:35 PM

Hi,

The article as written should stay as it is as was determined by the original author.  I think that's only fair.

Just so you understand, the very purpose of the wiki when we introduced it was for people to contribute in a format that is more suitable for "article & picture" presentations than this daily forum.

Along with that is the welcome for anyone to be able to contribute their own material to the wiki.

I have often presented original material in the tech wiki and linked back to other valuable references, sources and resources.  It seems that any update on your part could refer and link (he URL) to the helpful original article that has motivated and assisted you so much so far.

Stu, I think that is fair too, but Google will turn up the original and there are minor issues that could be easily corrected.  For example, the diagram showing the Echo charger is unreadable.  And as somebody here pointed out here, the 20A charger is likely under powered.  Ideally the original author could agree to, or even make, any update.

I would be happy to compose a fresh article too, but my expertise is questionable.

I have read many of your articles, BTW, and found them all very helpful.
#9
Quote from: waughoo on September 26, 2021, 09:21:46 PM
Quote from: ptidwell on September 26, 2021, 05:31:51 PM
I am curious where you mounted your starting battery.

I too am curious to know where you put it.  I am planning this project for the winter.  Present location I'm looking at is under the aft bberthdirectly aft of the footwell bulkhead.

That is where I put mine.  I am not very happy with the way I secured it, so that will likely be the topic of future projects.
#10
Quote from: KWKloeber on September 26, 2021, 07:28:50 PM
Quote from: ptidwell on September 26, 2021, 05:22:04 PM
Quote from: Jon W on September 26, 2021, 09:34:30 AM
Is your AC charger 20A or is that a typo?

Jon, the image attached to the post is a recreation of the original from the article.  That showed 20 Amp.  The charger on my boat (Soliton), is a Heart Interface Freedom 10, which documents says is 50 Amp (not sure how that can be since my AC input is only 30 Amp).

I am not sure what values are most likely.  Is 20A uncommon?

Are you understanding electrical circuits or just following an A B C upgrade like a paint by number?  You can't equate current @ 12v to current @ 120v in that manner.

50 amp output @ 12v would require 5 amp input @ 120v. That's a perfect world with the efficiency of the charger being 100%, which it's not. If it's more like 80%, the draw would be like 6.3 amps.

Not paint by numbers, but not 100% proficient either. Learning as I go. It was not clear to me which side of the circuit the 50A notation was referencing.  Your explanation was very helpful.
#11
Quote from: KWKloeber on September 26, 2021, 07:15:13 PM
I'm wondering, why do you feel you need a "starting" battery, opposed to a "reserve" battery to be used only in an emergency (the house back is down?

We're did you read that about the battery used only for starting, nothing else?
The diagram itself, near the top, describes how the switch positions work with the phrase "Battery isolated and used only for starting."

I feel the need to have a starting battery to relieve the anxiety that comes with managing the house banks to ensure I always have enough to start.  Call it what you will, it is "reserved" for starting.
#12
Quote from: Jon W on September 26, 2021, 06:47:56 PM
ptid, with a house bank of 4 T105's you want your AC charger to be 40 to 50a range. If yours is 50a you're good.

When I was doing my upgrade I was given the guidance that the AC charger should be sized at ~10% of the bank it is directly charging.

The diagram showing the T105s and the 20A charger is from the original article.  I do have a 50A charger on my boat. It would be good if the article could be updated and corrected.  It was last touched in 2004.
#13
I would not mind updating the original article with refreshed images and any other updates the article might need.  Does anyone here know how I might go about doing that?
#14
Quote from: Ron Hill on September 26, 2021, 02:30:56 PM
ptid : You didn't mention which engine you have, but I'll guess that it is an original M25XP engine.  The electric fuel pump should be wired so when you turn ON the key switch the fuel pump is energized!!     It should be OK on the starting battery!

A thought

Ron, you are correct.  It is an M25XP and is wired just as you described.  Sounds like I may be ok.  Thanks for you input!
#15
Quote from: Kyle Ewing on September 26, 2021, 02:20:22 PM
Congratulations on your upgrade!  My fuel lift pump also runs from the starter battery with no issues.


Kyle that's good to hear!  Did you do the alternator upgrade at the same time?
I will definitely monitor how the charging is going.   The battery spec says there are 130 reserve minutes.

I am curious where you mounted your starting battery.