Messages

I agree with Ron on replacing T&H with synthetic. If you do the job yourself you can save a lot of money. I have a C42 docked next to me and the owner replaced all the T&H with T&H and paid thousands of dollars on a 30 year old boat that hasn't yet left it's berth. We have synthetic T&H in our cockpit, on the deck and the seats and we love it. If I drop many more tools on the T&H in the cabin it will get replaced with synthetic.

The topping lift is necessary to support the boom until you have your reefing line pulled tight and secured.
Our boom has hooks at the mast end to secure the tack reefing cringle, and the reefing line is tightened to secure the clew reefing cringle (new outhaul)to the boom.
The main halyard can then be tightened to flatten the sail, and the topping lift can then be eased. The sail will then support the boom horizontally.
If you have a solid (pneumatic or sprung) vang it will support the boom while reefing.
YouTube has many good videos of reefing methods, and tips.

Chris, our 97 Mk2 has a round inspection port that allows access to the fuel shut off valve, pick up tube and the fuel return line. I think it's about 6 inches in diameter. I think you could use a much smaller hatch to access the top of your tank.

Like I said in my original post, the snaps are already in place on the covers. When these covers are shot I'll try the elastic hem idea.

Krafty, I'm in the process of re-installing the cover on the main cabin hatch. Ours look to be homemade with 8 metal snaps to hold it in place. I'm curious about the adhesives people have used to attach the snaps to the aluminum frame of the hatch? I'm going to try epoxy on half of the snaps and "Life-Calk" for the others as a test. The forward hatch unfortunately doesn't have a cover but glue residue suggests that it once did.

Thanks guys. It is just a crack in the fairing compound. I found it at the end of the day after dredging our entrance for the past month. My fatigue caused a panic reaction. Splashing Saturday!

I'm three days from launch and just found a crack on the cutlass bearing skeg. Crack is only on the port side and approximately 3 inches long. Any suggestions for a quick repair would be appreciated. Is JB weld an option? What is the skeg material?

Rob, just purchased a RD-22A-M16 (5.965" OD / 8 bolts / .25" diameter / 5.512 bolt circle diameter). This is on our M35-A(C)30HP, Hurth HBW100-2 transmission with a 10 tooth spline. It replaced the original SACHS 041866052001 damper plate. It was purchased from PYI in Lynwood, Washington. Cost was $301.50 + shipping. I would confirm your current plate dimensions as the RD-22A-M4 has a 6.12 O.D, and 5 bolts in a 5.593" bolt circle diameter. I didn't have to remove the bell housing to access and remove the damper plate.
John

Jim, VC17 is no longer available in Canada. I can cross the river and buy it in Port Huron but can't legally bring it home.

Our 97 34Mk2 has a factory Universal EZ bleed system which bypasses the high pressure pump back to the tank. I always run with the valve on the return line 1/2 open so the fuel flowing back to the tank is filtered twice.
We have a 2 micron Racor filter/water separator which does a great job of removing water from the fuel, and the standard Universal secondary fuel filter.
 A polishing system may be overkill on our boat, but I have purchased an other Racor, and a fuel pump and will put this together after Christmas. I'll add pictures to this thread when it's done.

Ken, it seems as though Catalina installed variants based on what Universal/Westerbeke delivered as pre-assembled engine, mount, & transmission packages. Fortunately our M35A(C) had an easy to remove transmission, and damper plate without having to remove the bell housing. I had planned on using a Florida based company for new mounts, but back to back hurricanes set the company , and it's employees several months back in their ability to supply my somewhat custom mounts. Hopefully the R&D mounts, and damper plate, and rebuilt transmission will provide us with many years of smooth motoring and sailing.
John

Justin thanks for the reply. I had looked at Bushings Inc. for replacements. They are an hour away from me so it would have been a quick transaction. My mounts have a 5" mounting bolt spacing so nothing they had would have worked for our engine weight and 5" spacing. I have purchased R&D 800-062 mounts. After speaking with the engineer at PYI I'm satisfied that these should work well along with a new damper plate. Hope both our mounts last a long time!
John

https://store.pyiinc.com/products/engine-mounts-5-8-stud?variant=38002678628542

Terry, our Mk2 has a forward tank under the V berth and the aft tank was removed by one of the previous owners. Don't miss the aft tank because of an additional lake water system that we use for washdown, etc. Our beautiful, clean, clear Lake Huron water allows this.
The routing of the tank hoses should be fairly obvious as to which tank they come from. If not, fill both tanks to overflowing, close one of the valves and with the pump running into your sink eyeball the tank level for a change. I found I had to do a thorough cleaning of the forward tank because it wasn't always kept full and mold had grown on the underside of the tank top. I can send a picture of our labelled valve arrangement when I can climb ladders again.
John

Krafty, on our Mk2 there are only two seacocks under the head sink. One for the sink drain, and one to supply the head.

Andy, I do change the Racor every year. I find that it traps water in the fuel, preventing it from getting to the lift pump, final filter, and injection pump. There is a fine mesh screen in the lift pump that will trap any particulate matter, but Its always clean when checked.
I also treat the fuel with fuel stabilizer when I top off the tank before haul out. Our boat has a K&N air filter that I inspect each season, clean, and oil if needed. I'm the fourth owner of this boat and the second owner utilized this message board often and upgraded many things on her.
John

https://www.knfilters.com/ru-2450-universal-clamp-on-air-filter