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While trying to track down the source of a small amount of coolant in my bilge, I noticed that the hose from my coolant recovery tank had no hose clamp at the engine end. There is corrosion around the fill cap so this leakage has been happening for some time. When I tried to seat the hose on the fitting and apply a clamp the fitting separated from the neck of the pressure cap/coolant fill. Any suggestions for a repair? 

The 34Mk2 has an odly shaped, and fairly heavy lid on its cockpit locker. Has anyone installed gas shocks on this lid to assist in opening it and prevent it from slaming closed?

As I simplify the wiring on our 97 MkII I'm finding items that I wonder if they're necessary, or functional. Does anyone experience alternator noise on their VHF radio when motoring? There is a noise suppression filter on the VHF which is double fused?? These filters (Radio Shack #270-051B) are intended for car stereo use, but our stereo works without noise and isn't equipped with a noise filter.

Our 97 MkII has a locker installed under the chart table and I'm wondering if the small piece of floor board in this locker covers fiberglass like the rest of the floor boards or if there is access to wiring?

Can someone enlighten me on how to remove the bulbs in the headliner fixtures. I assumed they were a rear pin bulb that was easily removed. Can't get them to budge.

I have a 1" zinc anode on the prop shaft and a "J" prop zinc that probably would protect for another season. I have zinc spares for both, but found magnesium replacements for both at prices too low to walk away from. The weight difference is substantial (1#11.5oz vs. 7 oz) and that can only be good for vibration reduction as well. We'll only sail in fresh water so magnesium seems to make the most sense. Does anyone have a two blade "J" prop (15.5" dia.) on their 34? My pitch had been set at position 7 which equals 8.6" and had vibration issues above 2200 rpm. I'm wondering if the pitch setting is incorrect causing cavitation?

Has anyone relocated their battery switch away from the electrical panel? The panel is difficult to open fully due to the stiffness of the cables going to switch terminals. When I got  a closer look the insulating jacket on the start bank cable had been pulled back significantly (4"+) exposing 2" of bare wire. Due to the lengths of these cables I may have to run new wire depending on the final location of the switch.
John

We purchased our boat last summer and I've been slowly going through systems and compiling a list of things I'd like to change. Our current bilge pump is a 1750 gpm Jabsco which had a large, and heavy 3 1/4" check valve installed on the discharge. The discharge hose downstream of the check valve was split and leaking so I removed the check and cut back the hose to solve the leak issue. When I removed the pump and float switch for cleaning I found the wiring to be suspect and the pump motor under the "sealed" housing to be badly corroded. I will replace the pump and wiring but would like opinions on a check valve. It seems to me to be a flow restriction with little benefit. Has anyone attempted to replace thier bilge pump hose? If so, do you recall it's length? What pump capacity is typical on 30'+ boats?
Thanks in advance for comments and answers.
More questions to follow
John

S/V Mystic
1997, C34 MKII, Tall rig, Fin keel
Universal M35-AC
Hull #1344
Sarnia, ON, Canada

I have recently purchased a 97 C34 MKII. I'm 200 miles away from the boat and it's storage cradle. I'm trying to arrange shipment of the cradle from home but the PO wasn't sure of the dimensions of the cradle. I realize that there are many different cradles out there, but can someone give me rough dimensions of their folded cradle's base? I plan to rent a trailer and bring the cradle home later this summer.

John Robb
S/V Mystic
1997 C34 MKII
Sarnia, ON, Canada

We recently purchased a 1997 34 MK2, hull#1344. It was owned by a firefighter and surprisingly didn't have any detectors aboard. What's the best location for a combined smoke & CO detector?