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I would prefer to repair it if possible. Pump with cover off

I have a 2" heat exchanger.
I think the inlet/outlet threads are 1/2".

I just returned from my trip. Engine behaved like a champ and got me through Deception Pass and Swinomish Channel etc. Temperature stayed at 160 almost all the time. Fortunately I was able to sail for at least half the trip. Now I need to give the engine some TLC. Number one item on the agenda is the water pump. I am not sure what kind this pump is, the label on the cover says something like "speedseal"?, a patent number, and not much else. Does anyone know what kind of pump this is, and what is the best way to fix it? Link to pic below.

pump pic

Thanks,
Junaid

Thanks for all your input and suggestions. The fresh water pump doesn't cycle on/off at the slip but sometimes after a day of hard sailing it will cycle on and off for a little bit before it stops doing that. For the hot water heater, I don't keep it plugged in to shore power but is there any way to keep it out of the engine cooling circuit when I am motoring for several hours?

https://youtube.com/shorts/RLdvceTYFqc?si=vSrqwD73vXLOFSiG

So after I posted the original question I ran the engine at slow speeds (1200-1400rpm) and the drip didn't trigger the bilge pump even after half an hour of running. I also noticed a bunch of hot steaming water in the bilge after I washed my hands. My first thought was that there was something wrong with the exhaust system but that seemed ok, but then I looked at the water heater under the galley sink and it was hissing and dripping water. Not sure if that is connected with the water pump issue? I have uploaded a video on YouTube that shows the drip. I checked the impeller about a month ago and it didn't seem like it had any broken vanes so I left it alone.

Engine temperature never went over 160 btw and the drip is pretty slow.

In the start of a weeklong trip and I noticed the bilge pump was kicking on and off. This was after a couple of hours of motoring Further examination showed the raw water pump was dripping steadily. Question: Is this enough of a reason to abort the trip and head home? Or if the bilge pump continues to keep up with the leak can I continue with the trip? Do these leaks get worse quickly to where they are going to overwhelm the bilge pump? The San Juan islands have fluky wind and lots of narrow tidal current passages and I don't want to risk an overheating engine.

I was pressure testing my muffler after epoxying the separated seam at the base. The seam part seems to be holding up ok. However, there are some leaks from a couple of the corner holes. For some reason I have two holes per corner, but only one screw in each corner securing the muffler to the plywood base. I plan on filling all the holes with unthickened epoxy and re-drill smaller hole through the filled area to prevent future leaks. Is there any great advantage to screwing the muffler down, or would a beefy tie-down strap that goes under the plywood and then comes back over the top of the muffler do the job? I don't sail hard or plan on crazy heel angles so the muffler should stay put. What do you guys think?

What part of the sink hose could you not get off?  All I had to do was remove the two hose clamps below the white blob thingies, nothing more was needed for access to the muffler (in my case for replacement but what I recommended for removal, too).  Am I missing something?

I undid the hose clamp on the sink hose, but despite all tugging and yanking the hose did not come off the faucet barb (is that what you are calling the "white blob thingy"?). Maybe I suck at getting hoses off, but this dissuaded me from exploring that route any further. I think I mentioned the large glass-bowl fuel filter that is also mounted under the sink. I suspect it will block the muffler coming out that route as well even if I manage to get the sink hoses off. There are very few one-size-fits-all solutions in these boats.

Stu,
I did try the sink route but couldn't even get the sink hoses off. After spending considerable time trying to do laparoscopic surgery through the head sink door,  this was the path of least resistance for me. I guess I will reevaluate the options when the time comes to put the muffler back.

Muffler is finally out. It felt like midwifing a Great Dane puppy out of a Dachshund, but it did come out the aft berth after executing a 90 degree clockwise turn. The muffler bottom seam on the port and aft sides is clearly separated. The starboard and fore sides are intact. The inlet/outlet tubes on top don't appear too bad. Plywood base seems reasonably solid. My question is, what is the best way to fix this separation? I have some marine-tex, JB Weld, two-syringe marine epoxy sold in hardware stores, old West System 105 epoxy/206 hardener (both over 10 years old),  some fiberglass cloth. Also, a tube of six ten thickened epoxy (that can be applied with a caulk gun). I am open to whatever gets the job done. I looked through this forum, most of the discussion seems to be about the inlet/outlet tubes. One guy in Australia posted about fixing a hairline crack in the bottom. Would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done the seam repair.
Junaid

It looks like a lot of work to get it out from the head sink compared to disconnecting one PSS vent tube and then easing it out from the aft cabin. I have a large Dahl fuel filter mounted under the sink as well as a snakes' nest of hoses and through-hulls under the sink. Seems like there are two schools of thought on the muffler extraction. The link below with pics is the aft cabin method. I think Ron also got it out through the aft cabin ?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/catalina34enthusiasts/permalink/1276666863111769/

Junaid

In the ongoing saga of the exhaust system, I have disconnected all the hoses/screws and am ready to pull the muffler out of the aft berth. Unfortunately, it is a tight fit due to the bladder water tank and the hose from the PSS shaft seal vent tube. Is it OK to disconnect the PSS vent tube temporarily to get the muffler out , or will it start gushing sea water into the boat?

Centek makes nice fiberglass adapters. 

I don't know the particulars of a C34, but if I recall correctly from Bill's project wouldn't there be a height limitation?

Wouldn't getting an adapter plus the injection wye plus hump hose to fit be an issue?

Is it a Centek brand waterlift?

It's Aqualift brand. The inlet is on the side so hopefully there would be enough room to connect the inlet to the water injection Y. Not sure about the outlet clearance on the top .

There is a new aqualift top-out, side-in cylindrical muffler for sale near me for cheap. It is 2" vs 1-5/8" hose dia, and the height is 11", diameter is 10".  The volume of this muffler is about the same as the old rectangular muffler (12"x12"x6.75") and somewhat less than the volume of the new CD cylindrical  muffler (14" dia, 7.5" high, $900).  Can I just replace the old rectangular top-in, top-out with this guy and use some kind of step-down fitting on the hoses?