Exhaust leak

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KWKloeber

Hmmm... I'd see if it would work to glass in 1-5/8" vernatube inside the 2" tubes.  That would be simpler than using hose adapters.  Or if there's a 1-5/8" x ?? adapter that would fit (glass onto) the outside of 2" stubs.

Understand that because it's a side-in, the volume isn't the entire container like your current top-in or CD's. 
Also, unless you install it rotated as Bill did, when heeled it will dump right out the inlet.



Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

#61
I would remove the old one and see if you can fix it by "glassing it up." If not doable, then I would buy the redesigned round one from Catalina Direct—if it is significantly cheaper than the square one (which has no price or availability listed).
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Ron Hill

Juna : I'm with Noah, it's easy to glass or epoxy the underside seam of you Aqualift muffler.  Just make sure that the inside doesn't have any obstructions. The inlet should be short(on the inside) and the outlet is longer on the inside.

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

junaido

In the ongoing saga of the exhaust system, I have disconnected all the hoses/screws and am ready to pull the muffler out of the aft berth. Unfortunately, it is a tight fit due to the bladder water tank and the hose from the PSS shaft seal vent tube. Is it OK to disconnect the PSS vent tube temporarily to get the muffler out , or will it start gushing sea water into the boat?
1986 #105, std. rig,  M25, Everett, WA

Stu Jackson

NO!  Take the muffler out from under the head sink, NOT the aft cabin hole. 

See my Feb 2016 tech note.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#66
Juna : Do as Stu suggests- All you have to do is remove the 2 water supply hoses, drain hose and the entire door + frame. I've removed my old muffler that way!!  :thumb:

a thought
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

I didn't even have to take the door off.  Please read my tech note.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

junaido

It looks like a lot of work to get it out from the head sink compared to disconnecting one PSS vent tube and then easing it out from the aft cabin. I have a large Dahl fuel filter mounted under the sink as well as a snakes' nest of hoses and through-hulls under the sink. Seems like there are two schools of thought on the muffler extraction. The link below with pics is the aft cabin method. I think Ron also got it out through the aft cabin ?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/catalina34enthusiasts/permalink/1276666863111769/

Junaid
1986 #105, std. rig,  M25, Everett, WA

waughoo

To directly answer the question you asked, yes removing the vent tube from the dripless will allow water into the boat.  If you were ready with a cap of some kind, you wouldn't loose much water into the bilge.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Stu Jackson

Quote from: junaido on February 11, 2024, 02:04:44 PMI think Ron also got it out through the aft cabin ?
Junaid

Yes, he did.  But,, please pretty please read my tech note.  I quoted Ron's article and showed with pictures the difficulty I had doing it that way.

I wrote:

Many of the removal articles suggest removing the muffler from the aft cabin hole. So I did. It was a BEAST to do. When the old muffler is moved off its plywood pad and pulled amidships to the area behind the engine, the muffler ports stick up and barely clear the fiberglass lip of the cockpit sole down below. The wiring harness wires are even lower and are very difficult to reach to lift up to clear the ports. After the muffler comes past those obstructions, it is necessary to turn (yank!) it 90 degrees clockwise to get it to come far enough aft to get to the "hole" because of the way the hull is shaped compared to the underside of the aft cabin fiberglass. I strongly urge you to never even bother. If your ports are too long, you will never get it out that way and will waste a lot of time & energy. We learned just how easy it is to replace the new muffler through the head door, which we never bothered to remove. Take the old muffler out through the head door!!! When installing the new muffler have the ports face midships, tilt it in and down and then flat and back over the plywood base. It's that easy.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#71
juna : You have to decide which way the muffler comes out, because the MKII M35BC muffler has the ports on it's side not the top like the MK I !!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Ron Hill on February 12, 2024, 02:32:09 PMjuna : You have to decide which way the muffler comes out, because the MKII M35BC muffler has the ports on it's side not the top like the MK I !!

A thought

Ron, he has hull #105, a Mark I boat.  Alex has the M35 and provided his assistance.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Juna : You decide which way is easiest way for you to remove your muffler - disregard my M35BC comment!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

junaido

Muffler is finally out. It felt like midwifing a Great Dane puppy out of a Dachshund, but it did come out the aft berth after executing a 90 degree clockwise turn. The muffler bottom seam on the port and aft sides is clearly separated. The starboard and fore sides are intact. The inlet/outlet tubes on top don't appear too bad. Plywood base seems reasonably solid. My question is, what is the best way to fix this separation? I have some marine-tex, JB Weld, two-syringe marine epoxy sold in hardware stores, old West System 105 epoxy/206 hardener (both over 10 years old),  some fiberglass cloth. Also, a tube of six ten thickened epoxy (that can be applied with a caulk gun). I am open to whatever gets the job done. I looked through this forum, most of the discussion seems to be about the inlet/outlet tubes. One guy in Australia posted about fixing a hairline crack in the bottom. Would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done the seam repair.
Junaid
1986 #105, std. rig,  M25, Everett, WA