Messages

[always]

Steve : I replaced one and what I did was take the old one to a hardware store so I could get a new one THE SAME LENGTH!!  The pressure should be on the valve

What I've found on the boat or at home if you ever have the pressure relief valve open (whether from pressure or if you opened it) you might as well replace it - because crud/calcium from the tank gets in the valve gasket and it will always leak!!

A few thoughts

dmc : Most of the real teak/holly that I've found is a metric thickness and the original factory is 3/8".
If I were to replace my T/H, think I'd look at the artificial rather than the Real T/H as I'm sure that it wears better!!

A thought

Rich : Look at the bottom of your air cleaner and you should see a hose clamp attached to the bottom. Take a screwdriver and loosen the screw and it should lift right off. On the inside is a filter made of metal shavings.

I clean the shavings with lacquer thinner and then spray a thin coat of clean oil an the shavings. Reinstall and it should be good for a couple of years - as the engine compartment is a fairly clean environment!!

A few thoughts   

juna : The only way to "easily?" keep the hot water heater out of the engine cooling circuit is to take the input hose to the hot water heater and connect it to the output hot water heater hose! That cuts out the Hot Water heater out of that circuit.

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Chris : The fuel tank is easy to remove. Just remove the port side panel in the aft cabin and you have full access to the fuel tank. Then remove the fuel gage wire, the output fuel line, the fuel fill line and the overflow vent line. Then a couple of hold down lag bolts and the tank will come right out!!

When it's out you can really inspect the tank.  I don't believe that your proposed hatch will NOT allow you to clean the tanks insides.

A few thoughts

Juna : I looked at the video and I'd say you have a fairly good LEAK. You definitely need a new lip seal to stop the water from bypassing the old seal and coming out the weep hole.  I'll guess that in not to distant future that leak will become a STREAM!!!

Like I said, the dripping of SALT water down the front of the engine will eventually rust a hole in the engine oil pan!!  Then you have a Real Problem!!!

In my opinion you need to also take some time to CLEAN your engine!!

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Juna : As Noah mentioned keep an eye on the engine temp!! I'd get the pump (probably and Oberdoffer) rebuilt with a new lip seal ASAP - as that dripping of salt water down the front of the engine will eventually rust out a spot in the engine oil pan!!  I've seen it happen!!!

A few thoughts   

 

[lock it]

Joe : You definitely want to center the rudder and lock it when you are in the slip or anchored!! You don't want the rudder slamming about!!!

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rja : If my fuel pump bracket had a crack - I would have taken it to a local welder for repair!!

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Kirk : I too replaced my travelers' 5/16" line with 3/8" line.  Mainly because 3/8" line is the smallest I can easily grip!!
However, years later I change back to 5/16" line. As I recall the larger line did not work well thru my 4:1 traveler sheaves!!!

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Kos : The wiring for the Windlass will be on the anchor well side of the teak partition at the head of the V-Berth.

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Pete : Always look at the shaft where the lip seals ride (about mid shaft). There may be wear that you can detect with your fingernail. If so replace the shaft!!

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Pete : I reread your initial post and I had the same problem. Right after I got my C34 that summer we were out for a sail and coming back in I turned on the engine. 1st Mate was at the wheel when she asked me to come up as the exhaust sounded "funny". We were overheating!! The temp gage read over 200F!! I shut down the engine and told her "No sweat" as I had a new impeller and would go back below and change it out!!

I took off the Oberdoffer face plate pulled the impeller attached to the shaft out. To my surprise I couldn't (like you) get the impeller (3 blades missing - hence the overheating) off the shaft.  So we sailed to the dock. She asked if we were going to practice our docking? I told her NO practice as it was like a wheels up landing - no practice.  We docked OK!!

I took that impeller and shaft home put it in a vice and hammered the impeller off the shaft!! Even had to get a bigger hammer!! Why the impeller was fuse to the shaft (bronze/brass impeller to a stainless shaft) is unknown!!! 

So you aren't the only one that has had this problem. From then on I always put some grease on the inside of the impeller before I put it on the shaft!!

A "war story", but always use some grease, Vaseline or Chapstick when you put 2 different metals together. 

PS - the shaft was still usable because I was hitting the end where the "C" clip attaches.  Found that I really didn't need that "C" clip anyway!!    A few thoughts 

Steve : I agree with Noah, you already have a hole thru the shaft for a cotter pin that secured your old prop. Can't you use it for a new cotter pin thru the new prop???

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Pete : I agree that all Oberdoffer (models) impellers are the same diameter and width!! 

Just use some dishwashing soap and compress the blades to slide it in place!!

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