Messages

Guy : I installed the same tap by putting it on a aluminum strip.  Then I inserted the strip under the overhead hatch on each side. I drilled a small hole in the aluminum on the cockpit end and screwed it in place!! No need to remove teak etc.

All is quiet now.  A few thoughts   

Joe : What happened to the original mast boot? You didn't mention that it was cracked or unusable?? If that is the case I'd go with the spar tight.

A thought

Dago : I agree with Noah. I have drip Free packing so it's just rainwater down the mast. I take a sponge and take up any rain that might have come down.

Don't think a "Bilge-B-Dry pump is necessary!!

A few thoughts 

ghe : Why don't you take that post apart and see if there is a problem with the piston??  It should compress and expand easily!!

A thought

Jun : As Ken mentioned, the next time there is no water coming out of the exhaust keep the engine running and pull off the output hose from the raw water pump and see if water is coming out!?!

If not then you've nailed it down to a pump problem or the intake/hose/thru hull!!

A few thoughts

gheb : You shouldn't have to cut a hole in the T/H flooring. The table (if you have an original table??) should lower itself so it rests on the runners forward, side ,and aft portions of the salon seating frame.

You might want to remove the pedestal mechanism and check it!!

A few thoughts

[intermittent]

Jun : WOW! One of the hardest items to trouble shoot is an intermittent anything!!!
 
I'm going to guess that you've got something in the raw water line from the output on the pump to the nipple on the exhaust riser that periodically stops the flow of water???

Here's what I'd try: Look at the elbow attached to the output of the raw water pump and make sure it is clear (no broker impeller blade hiding in there - maybe from a PO!!). Then I'll suggest that you remove the Hear Exchanger and clean it out (probably Never done in Many years!!) you just might take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out!! Check the hose from the Pump to the HE to make sure it is clear. Then check the output hose from the HX to the nipple on the exhaust riser to make sure it is clear (this includes the anti syphon valve that's inbetween the HX and that nipple.

If all of that route is clear - All should be OK.  Good Luck 

A few thoughts

Guys : If you ever need a "fastener" of any kind always FIRST try "Fastenal.Com". They have bronze and stainless nuts, bolts, screws etc. etc.

That's probably where Catalina Direct got the 9" bolts from!!

A thought     

Kevin/Guys : FYI, "PropScan" can increase the efficiency of your existing fixed blade prop!!

A thought

Kevin : Who knows what may have been caught in that Kelp??? 

If you go for a fixed blade prop, I'd find a prop shop that uses "PropScan" to set the blade pitch. It sets the pitch/twist at 3 or 4 (I forget) positions on each blade. Much better than a mallet forming each blade to a wooden block!

A thought

Kevin : I'm surprised that with a missing blade the prop shaft didn't "Shake Your Teeth Out" !!

A thought

Guys : One of the installation items you want to think about is - what do you want the Bimini frame to attach to on the boat??  Deck coming? or the stainless push pit rail?

I elected to have it attach to the push pit rail. That way it left the area in front of the Bimini frame more open for easier docking!!

I also agree that it is better to get a canvas shop to make it all.  It will be a few more "Boat Bucks", but everything will match and line up!!

A thought

Guys : It just amazes me to see such rusted items on owners boats. Guess that some people NEVER inspect items on their vessels !??? 

A thought

Kevin : What kind of prop lost a blade??

A thought

Kevin : Now that I'm 92 (next month) its surprising how age changes your priorities!! 

A thought