Messages

Sorry sold them with the boat with all the goodies.

Lots of interesting ideas for additional storage, might be good for somebody who was living aboard.  I like the spice rack on the back of the aft cabin door, but doesn't that impede getting in and out of the aft cabin?

Got your PM.  Will respond to you via email.

We're selling our C34, and I was wondering if anybody was interested in our KiwiProp or 155 Genoa.

Nothing wrong with them, although I'm sure it will be easier to get the sail off the boat then the prop.

$1100 for the prop, $1250 for the sail, open to offers.

This Catalina 34 stands out from other Mark I's because it's got the walk through transom, as well as the more powerful m35 engine that became standard with the Mark II. This boat shows pride of ownership, and is sailed often. The boat is very comfortable, easy to sail with minimal crew, and she's fast! You won't find a better price for a turnkey 34' sloop with a walk through transom anywhere! This Catalina 34 has a "Long Beach Special" bow pulpit, allowing you to save money on slip fees because she fits in a 30' slip! SOLD

Dimensions
LOA: 34.5 ft   Beam: 11.75ft   Displacement: 11950lb
LWL: 29.83ft    Ballast: 5000lb

Engine
Universal M35 4 Cylinder Diesel w/ 2184 hours
Cruising Speed: 6.5 knots @ 0.5 gph    Maximum Speed: 7 knot

Tankage
Fuel: 25 gal   Water: 77 gal (2 tanks)   Holding: 27 gal

Accommodations
•   Large V-berth with drawers and hanging locker
•   Spacious salon with upgraded LED lighting throughout entire interior
•   Full size settee and dinette converts to double berth
•   Aft cabin with ample storage with extra cabinet with drawers and mirrored hanging locker
•   Custom Carpet to cover cabin sole
Galley
•   L Shaped with double stainless steel sink
•   Hilerange propane stove/oven
•   Propane tank (2011)
•   Hot & cold pressure water w/ shurflo pump
•   Drop in Refer/Freezer drop in Adler Barbour (2003)
•   Seaward 6 Gallon Water Heater (1997)
Head
•   Upgraded single handled faucet (2012)
•   Jabsco manual toilet (2011)
•   White sanitation hose (2011)
•   Shurflo Macerator (2011)
•   Whaler Gulper shower sump pump (2011)
Engine
•   KiwiProp Feathering Prop (2011)
•   Cockpit mounted engine controls
•   Racor Fuel filter
•   Electric & manual bilge pumps
•   Orberdorfer water pump (2012)
•   Raw water sea strainer
•   Catalina Fuel Tank (2002)
Sails & Rigging
•   2 Lewmar #46 2 speed self-tailing main winches
•   2 Lewmar #30 2 speed secondary winches (starboard winch is self-tailing)
•   Stainess Steel Standing Rigging
•   Harken Pro Furl Mark III Roller Furling
•   Hyde Sails 155% Genoa (2012)
•   T&A Sails 140% Genoa (2001)
•   North Sails 155% Light #1 (Starting to delam)
•   T&A Triple Stitched Main w/ 1 Reef Point (Sail tuned up by Hyde in 2012)
•   Dutchman system on main sail (2012)
•   Boom powder coated (2012)
•   Outhaul replaced with 5:1 purchase (2011)
•   All lines lead to cockpit with Spinlock XTS Triple Clutches (2012)
•   Garhauer EZ-Glide Adjustable Genoa Car System (2011)
•   Garhauer Ball-bearing Traveler 6:1 (2011)
Deck
•   Dodger with Makrolon glass and bimini (2012)
•   Mesh or Canvas connect dodger & bimini for extra shade
•   Square stainless steel bow pulpit w/ anchor roller
•   Danforth anchor w/ chain & nylon rode
•   2nd anchor setup for stern
•   Electric Windlass (1999)
•   Spinnaker Pole
•   Cockpit table and cushions, and canvas covers
•   One Dorade and one solar vent (2011)
Electronics
•   Garmin GPSMAP 182C color chartplotter w/ BlueChart
•   JVC KD-HDR60 Receiver w/ remote (FM/AM/HD/CD/MP3/USB/IPHONE) (2011)
•   Yamaha Speakers in cabin w/ new wire (2011)
•   Pioneer Speakers in cockpit w/ new wire (2011)
•   Standard Horizon VHF
•   Signet Wind, Depth, and Speed
•   Raymarine SmartPilot X5 (2011)
Electrical
•   110V AC & 12V DC electrical system
•   Current Catalina OEM AC DC Electrical Panel (2011)
•   Mastervolt PowerCharger 12/20-3 Battery Charger (2011)
•   Xantrex LinkPro Battery Monitor (2012)
•   House: 2 6V Golf Cart Batteries Engine: 1 12V Battery
Awards
•   2011 Shoreline Yacht Club Parade of Lights Winner
•   2012 First place PHRF A - Labor Day Long Beach to Dana Point Race
•   2012 First place PHRF Dog Days of Summer Race
•   Participated in filming of recent Arrested Development episode (to be aired this April)

SOLD

We usually reef the main before we reef our 155, but it's on a roller furler, so we can roll it up when the wind pipes up.

You mention crew wanting to point higher and go faster, makes me think your racing, maybe get a new 155 and have your old 155 cut down to a blade might give you more options.

I replaced mine with a new panel from seaward.

It was around $550 I think.

Figure somebody will give you a little money for your old one (somebody with a REALLY old catalina)

I wouldn't replace the panel because you want to add a windlass or electric head, but if your panel is old and unreliable or in need of maintenance it's a worthwhile upgrade.  Like others said, the windlass breaker is better off someplace else in most cases, and an electric head is just a single additional breaker and wire run, unless you grab power off the shower sump pump.

My shower sump pump gets power off the water pressure switch, so keep that in mind if your head would use the water pump (if freshwater flushing)

How did the boom come crashing down on people? Was the main not up?

Thanks for all the info.  It looks like the hard part is getting it off the motor, so I'll work that angle first, then take it off the muffler, then strip it down and see what it looks like.  One of the threads had a picture of the part so knowing it's all one piece helped.

I was hoping I can get some advice from somebody who's done this already so I can buy some parts ahead of time (if possible).

I inspected the exhaust where it comes off the engine, but it doesn't appear to be leaking there, although the first bit of insulation is a different color then the rest.  Not sure if that's heat or water related.

I found something that definitely does not look right.  It appears that the dry exhaust comes off the motor and goes to the muffler, where it is mixed with raw water.  Where the wet and dry exhaust meet at the muffler I've got a large buildup of salt around the dry exhaust side. 

Is that part of the muffler or some other part?  My muffler is a black small bucket shaped device with the hoses going in to the top of it.


exhaust by No Worries 29, on Flickr

Here's the video... I run it forward, then reverse.
http://youtu.be/a7jpW-EqVOE

They sell them at West Marine.  The packaging is easy to open, so make sure you check that they are all there and all the same size.  I compared my slide in the store, bought a pack, got back to the boat, pulled one out, and it was the wrong size.  Didn't figure it out until I went back to WM to return it and found I needed to re-buy the same size. 

After a quick email exchange with John Blundell at Kiwi Props, I'm going to go through my HX and exhaust first... if it still doesn't get me the results I'm looking for, he suggested I reduce pitch to ~ 19º  ie 2/3rds turn out on each screw.

If you want his contact info let me know.

I don't mind the advice... it's on the list... it's just a long list.

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I get 6.5-7 knots from 1700-1900 RPM depending on conditions, burning 0.5/gal hour, so I'm hesitant to start "tweaking things".  But my trans needs work, so maybe when the time comes to do that I'll tweak with it then.

Most of the time we just motor out of the slip into the harbor and then shut her down.

I've got some video of my kiwi prop in action if anybody is interested.

I've got a kiwi prop on mine. 

This is what his email said mine is: 15.50" ( Nominal = 16" at the tips ) x 21 deg

I'm overpropped.  I can only get about 1900 rpm before it starts smoking.
When I shift into reverse, I have to give it some throttle... at idle the shock of the blades reversing will stall the motor.

I'm happy with it.  Made a big difference under sail.  Price was right.

I'd adjust it but the pre-existing 3-blade prop performed about the same.