Messages

Thanks Ron for your reply to my getting no inlet flow in the salt water toilet when pumping. This is a relatively young Jabsco Manual Toilet unit installed four years ago. It has been used very few times since I have not been on any cruises. It is  mostly used for short Bay races. But, the hoses, piping and valves are all the originals from 1988.
As a result of your comments it led me to the thought that maybe the "vented loop" may be part of the problem. If the vented loop valve was stuck open all the time, I would be sucking in air instead of water while pumping, right? I have not had a chance to follow up on your comments as of yet.
I plan to follow your well thought out suggestions and I will reply. Thanks again for your help, as usual, Dave 707 .

Will not pump what in.  It pumps water out when you poor water in to the boll.  Can't get sea water to flow through.

I happen to be in LA, so I stopped in at the CY and bought a new replacement while they were still there. I did not realize how short my car was and how long the teak eye was. I drove all the way back home to San Francisco with the darn thing flapping out the window at highway speeds. Have Fun  

This is a subject that has been discussed before but not in the same details. The subject could be called "how to ruin brand new high tech expensive halyards". The other inheritance to this dilemma is "leaving the tension on the halyard for about two weeks and locking it down in the Garthauer rope clutch." The normal type of line has a soft loose cover and can compress without or with minimum damage. The line that I used has a very high strength and very low stretch. I felt that I needed the slight advantage since racing is really getting tough and every little bit helps. The line that I used is called Crystalyne and goes for the discounted price of $2.88 per ft. I needed 112 feet. Or $322 plus tax etc.
I should have known better than to leave the tension on the line for two weeks. My rigger should have alerted me to the potential problem. Also my Sailmaker should have alered me. I have been told that the new Lewmer rope clutches has a new design that spreads out the load and is gentler on the line. It also has less slip. The cost of a Lewmer triple clutch vs.  Garhauer is significant. I hope I will not have to go there. As a side note, I probably would not have left all the tension on the line if I was not using my new ATM jib sock. That's another story, another time.
Dave Davis

After reading Ron's 7 steps method of bedding various thing-a-ma bobs, I agree it is a great way to seal the whatever. I thought that I would mention an alternative method which is quite different. I learned this method from the mechanics that are getting over $100 an hour (in San Francisco) at the boat yard and have to get it done NOW.
After following Ron's method of cleaning, I would add cutting a groove completely around the hole at a 45 degree. You can cut the groove to a depth of 1/8 to 1/4 depending on the item you are sealing. This groove acts as a mold for the sealent and it can be filled or over filled. This method can be done without any waiting time for curing.
Re member, this is an alternate method that can be used when you do not have the time to wait for part curing.
Dave Davis ,707, Wind Dragon, SF

[prop]

I don't like sending my prop off to get it cleaned up and smooth down the pitting every 4-6 years. Ever since I added a large 4/6 inch zinc I have not needed to have this done(as often). It's pretty simple to connect the zinc with a copper wire and ground it to the engine block. WM zinc cost $20. It just hangs there about prop high and I pull it aboard when I am out sailing. I also have an isolator on the green wire from the ground. All this was recommend by the Harbor electrical guru. Ron would call this a case of weiring a belt with suspenders.
Dave-707-SF

Brian, since these batteries weigh about 85 pounds each, you will have to find the equal specs for the 220 amp 6 volts copies near your boat.  I bought mine from the factory 30 minutes away from my boat. American Battery Co in Hayward Ca, 510-259-1150. Type US-2200 For questions ask for Jim Ramos.
Good Luck,
Dave

BATTERY LIFE ON WIND DRAGON-707
There have been lots of information about the electrical systems and the endless methods of wiring and installing batteries. All the information is very helpful and it is available on the search systems. I thought that I would add a subject that I was not able to find. The question of (how long should your batteries last?).  The answer of course depends on the system layout, the usage, the type of batteries, the charging methods, and many more, etc. The reason I have asked the question is because I have just replaced my 11 year old four battery system which was still working but sounded like they were a little tired.  I asked around with other C34 skippers and decided that I was living in shaky times.  So, I decided to replace them with four new batteries from the same company.   I paid $40 each for the original set and I paid $95 each for my new ones. When telling the factory owner (at the American Battery Co) about how long they lasted, he told me that the new ones should last 17 years due to the improvement he has made on the new ones. The new ones should out-last me, since I am 79 years old now.
The new ones are 6 volts each with 220 Amp Hours and it takes 4 batteries to fill the same location as the old factory system.  I didn't record the hours of usage but, Wind Dragon is 22 years old and has 1282 hours engine time. That's not much time compared to skippers that spend lots of time in the cruise or anchor mode. My main motoring time is spent getting to the start line and getting back. They get charged by the standard CY alternator.  My batteries get charged in shore only if I plan to sleep over night. I never leave the charger on when leaving WD for weeks at a time.  I use a 20 amp TrueCharger, set at "Absorption".
He does not recommend using the hotter setting.  He says it will ruin his batteries.
All the starting and all the house lights are done with both batteries set for "all" on the master switch.
This report is not very technical , but hope it is informative.
Dave on SanFrancisco Bay

You might want to try this simple test to verify the soot is coming from the belt or some other place. Take a piece of paper and pin it to the inside of the door. Run the engine for about 10-15 minutes and look at the shape and location of the soot, if any. Don't leave the paper there, it gets too hot for it. If you decide you want to leave it there for longer perion of time. replace it with a sheet of aluminum paper.
Good luck, Dave

Ken Juul related his experience talking on the phone with Kame Richards, the owner of Pineapple Sails in the SF Bay. Kame is not only a good talker but a top notch sail maker and a very well known racer. He has spent many hours on my Wind Dragon educating me on the art of Sailing/Racing. I am completely powered by Pineapple. I would not go anywere else.
Dave Davis

Rick, As for the size of the winches I installed for my spin sheets, I added #40. If I were to do it again, I would use #30, which is the same size as the cabin top.
Good luck, dave

Rick, I will let you know the size of my spin sheet winchs after next Sun. I do however want to mention that the 10in winch handles slightly interfere with the life lines when cracking. You need to holds the lines away.
Dave

TOM,
YOU GOT LOTS OF GOOD INFO FROM MILES. I CAN ONLY COMMENT ON JUST A FEW POINTS.
1. IF YOU GO TO A DIP-POLE GJBE, YOU WILL NEED TO ADD A TRACK UP THE MAST WITH A GOOD HEAVY DUTY CONTROL CAR
2. I LIKE TO HAVE 8 FOR CREW, YOU MAY BE SHORT HANDED WITH ONLY 6
3. I LIKE YOUR 24/1 MAINSHEET CONTROL BY HAND. I HAVE BOTH HAND AND/OR WINCH OPTIONS.
I ADDED TWO MORE WINCHES FOR SPINNAKER SHEETS.
GOOD LUCK. DAVE

I blew-up three or four during a wild hi-wind jibe. I took the main back to the sail doctor and he sewed in new bronze slugs(no plastic). They should last.

The length of the pole is very important but I would also think about the diameter of the pole. The shorter 18 foot pole uses a max diameter of only 2.5 in. instead of 3.0 in for the longer pole. I would worry about bending the pole in strong winds. They do not like bending and end up in a strange shape.
The trick about tying a loop at the clew is a very nice option if you plan on tacking often. Thanks Jon and Stu.
Dave