Will not pump what in. It pumps water out when you poor water in to the boll. Can't get sea water to flow through.
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#2
Main Message Board / Damage to Halyards
March 14, 2011, 07:01:33 PM
This is a subject that has been discussed before but not in the same details. The subject could be called "how to ruin brand new high tech expensive halyards". The other inheritance to this dilemma is "leaving the tension on the halyard for about two weeks and locking it down in the Garthauer rope clutch." The normal type of line has a soft loose cover and can compress without or with minimum damage. The line that I used has a very high strength and very low stretch. I felt that I needed the slight advantage since racing is really getting tough and every little bit helps. The line that I used is called Crystalyne and goes for the discounted price of $2.88 per ft. I needed 112 feet. Or $322 plus tax etc.
I should have known better than to leave the tension on the line for two weeks. My rigger should have alerted me to the potential problem. Also my Sailmaker should have alered me. I have been told that the new Lewmer rope clutches has a new design that spreads out the load and is gentler on the line. It also has less slip. The cost of a Lewmer triple clutch vs. Garhauer is significant. I hope I will not have to go there. As a side note, I probably would not have left all the tension on the line if I was not using my new ATM jib sock. That's another story, another time.
Dave Davis
I should have known better than to leave the tension on the line for two weeks. My rigger should have alerted me to the potential problem. Also my Sailmaker should have alered me. I have been told that the new Lewmer rope clutches has a new design that spreads out the load and is gentler on the line. It also has less slip. The cost of a Lewmer triple clutch vs. Garhauer is significant. I hope I will not have to go there. As a side note, I probably would not have left all the tension on the line if I was not using my new ATM jib sock. That's another story, another time.
Dave Davis
#3
Main Message Board / BATTERY LIFE
December 24, 2009, 07:19:00 PM
BATTERY LIFE ON WIND DRAGON-707
There have been lots of information about the electrical systems and the endless methods of wiring and installing batteries. All the information is very helpful and it is available on the search systems. I thought that I would add a subject that I was not able to find. The question of (how long should your batteries last?). The answer of course depends on the system layout, the usage, the type of batteries, the charging methods, and many more, etc. The reason I have asked the question is because I have just replaced my 11 year old four battery system which was still working but sounded like they were a little tired. I asked around with other C34 skippers and decided that I was living in shaky times. So, I decided to replace them with four new batteries from the same company. I paid $40 each for the original set and I paid $95 each for my new ones. When telling the factory owner (at the American Battery Co) about how long they lasted, he told me that the new ones should last 17 years due to the improvement he has made on the new ones. The new ones should out-last me, since I am 79 years old now.
The new ones are 6 volts each with 220 Amp Hours and it takes 4 batteries to fill the same location as the old factory system. I didn't record the hours of usage but, Wind Dragon is 22 years old and has 1282 hours engine time. That's not much time compared to skippers that spend lots of time in the cruise or anchor mode. My main motoring time is spent getting to the start line and getting back. They get charged by the standard CY alternator. My batteries get charged in shore only if I plan to sleep over night. I never leave the charger on when leaving WD for weeks at a time. I use a 20 amp TrueCharger, set at "Absorption".
He does not recommend using the hotter setting. He says it will ruin his batteries.
All the starting and all the house lights are done with both batteries set for "all" on the master switch.
This report is not very technical , but hope it is informative.
Dave on SanFrancisco Bay
There have been lots of information about the electrical systems and the endless methods of wiring and installing batteries. All the information is very helpful and it is available on the search systems. I thought that I would add a subject that I was not able to find. The question of (how long should your batteries last?). The answer of course depends on the system layout, the usage, the type of batteries, the charging methods, and many more, etc. The reason I have asked the question is because I have just replaced my 11 year old four battery system which was still working but sounded like they were a little tired. I asked around with other C34 skippers and decided that I was living in shaky times. So, I decided to replace them with four new batteries from the same company. I paid $40 each for the original set and I paid $95 each for my new ones. When telling the factory owner (at the American Battery Co) about how long they lasted, he told me that the new ones should last 17 years due to the improvement he has made on the new ones. The new ones should out-last me, since I am 79 years old now.
The new ones are 6 volts each with 220 Amp Hours and it takes 4 batteries to fill the same location as the old factory system. I didn't record the hours of usage but, Wind Dragon is 22 years old and has 1282 hours engine time. That's not much time compared to skippers that spend lots of time in the cruise or anchor mode. My main motoring time is spent getting to the start line and getting back. They get charged by the standard CY alternator. My batteries get charged in shore only if I plan to sleep over night. I never leave the charger on when leaving WD for weeks at a time. I use a 20 amp TrueCharger, set at "Absorption".
He does not recommend using the hotter setting. He says it will ruin his batteries.
All the starting and all the house lights are done with both batteries set for "all" on the master switch.
This report is not very technical , but hope it is informative.
Dave on SanFrancisco Bay
#4
Main Message Board / New fuel tank vs. Clean the old tank
June 18, 2007, 03:19:21 PM
Hi Skippers,
This is an option that you might concider. There has been lots of information about how you should clean the old fuel tank and how difficult it is to do a through job. My c34 is 19 years young and it was doing just great until two weeks ago when I took a look in the bilge,which I do every time I visit Wind Dragon. I found it looking horrible with a 1-2 inch layer of RED fuel that looked like blood. Yes, it smelled like fuel and it certainly was red diesel.
I figure there are 706 boats out there that are as old or older than # 707 Wind Dragon. I motered it over to to the SF Boatworks where they pumped the bilge and tank and pulled out the tank. We found two corrosion holes in the bottom of the tank. We pressurized the tank with low pressure air and bubble tested the the rest of the tank. The welds looked good.
These old original tanks are made out of Aluminum alloy# 50-52 which is a good weldable alloy. I do not know if it is the best alloy for diesel, but it is made out of .062 which is, in my opinion rather thin. The new tanks are twice the thickness .125 in. The new tanks come with all the ready to go fitting and a new sender. They do not come with new hoses which is a good addition at the replacement time.
The cost of the tank from CY is $475 plus tax and ship. CY part # is 20791 These new tanks have not been painted which concerns me but shoud last at least 20 or more years.
Now, you can make your choice, CLEAN VS. REPLACE
Good Luck,
Dave
This is an option that you might concider. There has been lots of information about how you should clean the old fuel tank and how difficult it is to do a through job. My c34 is 19 years young and it was doing just great until two weeks ago when I took a look in the bilge,which I do every time I visit Wind Dragon. I found it looking horrible with a 1-2 inch layer of RED fuel that looked like blood. Yes, it smelled like fuel and it certainly was red diesel.
I figure there are 706 boats out there that are as old or older than # 707 Wind Dragon. I motered it over to to the SF Boatworks where they pumped the bilge and tank and pulled out the tank. We found two corrosion holes in the bottom of the tank. We pressurized the tank with low pressure air and bubble tested the the rest of the tank. The welds looked good.
These old original tanks are made out of Aluminum alloy# 50-52 which is a good weldable alloy. I do not know if it is the best alloy for diesel, but it is made out of .062 which is, in my opinion rather thin. The new tanks are twice the thickness .125 in. The new tanks come with all the ready to go fitting and a new sender. They do not come with new hoses which is a good addition at the replacement time.
The cost of the tank from CY is $475 plus tax and ship. CY part # is 20791 These new tanks have not been painted which concerns me but shoud last at least 20 or more years.
Now, you can make your choice, CLEAN VS. REPLACE
Good Luck,
Dave
#5
Main Message Board / Trouble with Deck,Steaming and Anchor Lights w/Flix
March 20, 2007, 11:37:16 AM
The Steaming and Anchor lights are dead and the Deck light just BLINKS at a rate of less than one or two brinks per second. All three of these lights go to the same circuit breaker on the panel. So I thought the circuit breaker was faulty. I got a replacement from WM but when hooked up, I got the same results. After checking the connections at the base of the mast, at the ground at the back of the panel, I got the same results. Several dock side consultants recommended that I go up and clean the light sockets and connectors and wipe down with some anti corrosion liquid. The next time I go up, I will bring with me an ohm meter and some new bulbs.
The strange part of this message is the constant blinking of the Deck light. It acts like a stobe light. Very Strange. For your entertainment., Dave
The strange part of this message is the constant blinking of the Deck light. It acts like a stobe light. Very Strange. For your entertainment., Dave
#6
Main Message Board / Hard to Start/Operater Error
December 08, 2006, 04:29:40 PM
Hard to start or operator error? 
This story happened last Saturday and it will be remembered as one of the most embarrassing mistakes that have happened to me in a long long time.
The crew and I met at the boat in time to take a short one hour trip to the Golden Gate YC to enter in the Seaweed Soup Mid-Winter Regatta. Before leaving the slip I went to warm up Wind Dragon and I pushed the glow plug button followed by the ignition and nothing happened except the starter motor and the fuel pump were sounding off. It seemed strange that it would not catch on. But since I had the boat out of the water for the last 3 weeks, I blamed the battery for the cause. After all, it was not used for that length of time. We all got nervous, tested all the wires and connections that we could think about, and finally we went back to the car in order to borrow the car battery. You have to remember that we were doing things much faster than usual and we had a starting time we had to make at the regatta. You may have guessed by now that we were all running around without are heads connected. And suddenly, almost by accident, after many tries, the boat sprang to life.
It turned out that one of the crew hit the "kill switch". That's the little T- shaped lever that is in the starting panel. It's function is to cut off the fuel intake by actuating the "stop solenoid".
Well, I learned how sensitive the kill switch is on my boat. It cuts off about 1 inch above the base. Maybe this story will prevent others from falling into this trap.
By the way, we got to the regatta 15 minutes after the C34 start and I will have to use this race as my throw-out.
Dave
This story happened last Saturday and it will be remembered as one of the most embarrassing mistakes that have happened to me in a long long time.
The crew and I met at the boat in time to take a short one hour trip to the Golden Gate YC to enter in the Seaweed Soup Mid-Winter Regatta. Before leaving the slip I went to warm up Wind Dragon and I pushed the glow plug button followed by the ignition and nothing happened except the starter motor and the fuel pump were sounding off. It seemed strange that it would not catch on. But since I had the boat out of the water for the last 3 weeks, I blamed the battery for the cause. After all, it was not used for that length of time. We all got nervous, tested all the wires and connections that we could think about, and finally we went back to the car in order to borrow the car battery. You have to remember that we were doing things much faster than usual and we had a starting time we had to make at the regatta. You may have guessed by now that we were all running around without are heads connected. And suddenly, almost by accident, after many tries, the boat sprang to life.
It turned out that one of the crew hit the "kill switch". That's the little T- shaped lever that is in the starting panel. It's function is to cut off the fuel intake by actuating the "stop solenoid".
Well, I learned how sensitive the kill switch is on my boat. It cuts off about 1 inch above the base. Maybe this story will prevent others from falling into this trap.
By the way, we got to the regatta 15 minutes after the C34 start and I will have to use this race as my throw-out.
Dave
#7
Main Message Board / Remove aft water tank-Mark 1
July 25, 2006, 10:59:42 AM
I would like to find the best way to remove the aft fresh water tank on my 707 Mark1. It's a fiberglass tank that looks like it will come out through the lazerate after removing all the steering and propane storage.
Or should I try to get it out past the inside bulkhead with the "hidden" screw. I have read about removing the screw by cutting away the upper corner of the liner. I may have to take appart both systems to get it out.
My question is, has anyone ever taken out the aft fresh water tank on the Mark 1? :cry4`If so, how did you do it?
I plan on replacing the tank. I am not trying to save weight.
Thanks, Dave
Or should I try to get it out past the inside bulkhead with the "hidden" screw. I have read about removing the screw by cutting away the upper corner of the liner. I may have to take appart both systems to get it out.
My question is, has anyone ever taken out the aft fresh water tank on the Mark 1? :cry4`If so, how did you do it?
I plan on replacing the tank. I am not trying to save weight.
Thanks, Dave
#8
Main Message Board / Boat Insurance/Self Survey
May 09, 2006, 10:59:25 AM
This is a new one for me.
It's called Self-Survey. my Insurance Co. sent me a request to do a Photographic Survey using their one-time flash camera. which they sent to me.They listed instructions to take 22 photographs of various shots throughout the boat. They included shots of things like the hull, fuel fills, hull number, engine, fuel tank and hosing, battery storage, bilge pump, shore power inlet and plugs etc. I went ahead and took all the photos and sent them back to the ins. co.
I found this approach very interesting. In talking to a Marine Surveyor, he thought they requested this survey because my boat is approaching 20 years old. Happy B-Day. #707.
They returned with comments and a list of 7 RECOMMENDATIONS. All of the recommendations need to be answered and brought into compliance. The list of recommendations have to do with smoke detectors, complete fire extinguisher systems, thru hull fittings, fuel hoses types, and Electrical ground requirements. and etc.
I am currently in the middle of all this and as things get finalized, I will let you know the outcome. I hope I do not have to rebuild Wind Dragon. Have any of you been thru all this. If you rather not air it out to the message board, you may send your comments to my Email. <davis_707@yahoo.com>
It's called Self-Survey. my Insurance Co. sent me a request to do a Photographic Survey using their one-time flash camera. which they sent to me.They listed instructions to take 22 photographs of various shots throughout the boat. They included shots of things like the hull, fuel fills, hull number, engine, fuel tank and hosing, battery storage, bilge pump, shore power inlet and plugs etc. I went ahead and took all the photos and sent them back to the ins. co.
I found this approach very interesting. In talking to a Marine Surveyor, he thought they requested this survey because my boat is approaching 20 years old. Happy B-Day. #707.
They returned with comments and a list of 7 RECOMMENDATIONS. All of the recommendations need to be answered and brought into compliance. The list of recommendations have to do with smoke detectors, complete fire extinguisher systems, thru hull fittings, fuel hoses types, and Electrical ground requirements. and etc.
I am currently in the middle of all this and as things get finalized, I will let you know the outcome. I hope I do not have to rebuild Wind Dragon. Have any of you been thru all this. If you rather not air it out to the message board, you may send your comments to my Email. <davis_707@yahoo.com>
#9
Main Message Board / Oberdorfer impeller pump
May 14, 2005, 09:02:08 PM
I know there has been lots of post about the Oberdorfer water pump and it's impeller. and I have read several of them. My question has to do with the little C shape clip-ring that fits into the groove on the shaft. I can not locate the special tool that fits into the little holes at the end of the clip. It's a tool like a pliers that opens the clip when you squeeze the handle. It's used to take off and replace the clip without bending it. Maybe a small sharp needle nose pliers may work with a little luck.
My question is, why do I have to replace the clip. The impeller can't really go anywhere. It may hit the inside of the flange, but that should not hurt anything. SHOULD IT?
My question is, why do I have to replace the clip. The impeller can't really go anywhere. It may hit the inside of the flange, but that should not hurt anything. SHOULD IT?
#10
Main Message Board / Racing News
May 04, 2005, 11:02:22 AM
RACING NEWS 
I thought Northern and Southern California C34 owner/racers might be
interested in hearing about the 38th running of the Marina del Rey to
San
Diego Race on July 2nd & 3rd. Each year we attract racers from all over
the state and around the country-to participate in the best overnight
sailboat race around. The renewed version of the event is called
"Survive
the Night!" and it is sponsored by Santa Monica Windjammers YC of
Marina
del Rey in conjunction with Southwestern YC of San Diego.
LAST YEAR, THERE WERE SIX C34 IN THE RACE DIV AND FOUR C34 IN THE CRUSE DIV. This gang may be interested in joining a C34 national next year.
The fun starts on July 1st at the Santa Monica Windjammers YC where
there
will be an outdoor BBQ, drinks and dancing to kick-off the weekend
festivities, it all starts 1800hrs. Everyone is invited; a party mood
will
be a requirement!
The race starts on July 2nd with PHRF, ORCA and Cruising classes plus a
Double-handed Division to accompany the sailors down the coast. As in
previous years, the Cruising Division will be permitted to motor,
although
the motoring aspect will be similar to the Ensenada race, boats will be
able to motor for a longer time but you will incur a penalty the longer
you motor.
The course usually features light winds and gentle seas, and as such,
is
great for those skippers and crew new to ocean racing. This year, as an
added bonus, racers will be able to watch the spectacular fireworks
displays at San Diego’s Shelter and Harbor Islands on July 4th.
After the finish, usually 24 hours after the start, the partying will
begin in San Diego. The beautiful Southwestern YC will have slips and
raft-up accommodations for all participants. There will be a buffet
dinner, drinks, dancing and plenty of chances to tell lies about the
previous nights' racing. The trophy and awards presentation will be on
Monday, July 4th at 9:00am.
Just the same as last year, Pusser’s Rum© will sponsor the
skipper’s &
crew caps, and metal Painkiller® mugs that will be given to each entry
along with the class trophies, these will be the beautiful ceramic
decanters of Pusser’s Rum©, perpetual trophy winners will receive
the
Pusser’s Rum® ceramic hip flasks.
This is really only the beginning, we start on Monday afternoon and for
the rest of the week, a flotilla of boats head back up the coast,
harbor
hopping--with planned stops in Mission Bay, Oceanside and Dana
Point--all
the way to Isthmus Cove on Catalina Island where the partying will
continue with a series of events with Arizona Yacht Club--until we all
head home on Sunday, July 10th.
For more info, including entry forms, you can go to 2 Web sites:
www.smwyc.org (click on ‘racing’) or www.southwesternyc.org. Or you
can
call in MdR- 626) 353-3858 or in San Diego 619) 222-0438
Orlando Duran
Race Chairman
Santa Monica Windjammers' YC/Southwestern YC
Marina del Rey-San Diego Race Committee
orlando.duran@averydennison.com
I thought Northern and Southern California C34 owner/racers might be
interested in hearing about the 38th running of the Marina del Rey to
San
Diego Race on July 2nd & 3rd. Each year we attract racers from all over
the state and around the country-to participate in the best overnight
sailboat race around. The renewed version of the event is called
"Survive
the Night!" and it is sponsored by Santa Monica Windjammers YC of
Marina
del Rey in conjunction with Southwestern YC of San Diego.
LAST YEAR, THERE WERE SIX C34 IN THE RACE DIV AND FOUR C34 IN THE CRUSE DIV. This gang may be interested in joining a C34 national next year.
The fun starts on July 1st at the Santa Monica Windjammers YC where
there
will be an outdoor BBQ, drinks and dancing to kick-off the weekend
festivities, it all starts 1800hrs. Everyone is invited; a party mood
will
be a requirement!
The race starts on July 2nd with PHRF, ORCA and Cruising classes plus a
Double-handed Division to accompany the sailors down the coast. As in
previous years, the Cruising Division will be permitted to motor,
although
the motoring aspect will be similar to the Ensenada race, boats will be
able to motor for a longer time but you will incur a penalty the longer
you motor.
The course usually features light winds and gentle seas, and as such,
is
great for those skippers and crew new to ocean racing. This year, as an
added bonus, racers will be able to watch the spectacular fireworks
displays at San Diego’s Shelter and Harbor Islands on July 4th.
After the finish, usually 24 hours after the start, the partying will
begin in San Diego. The beautiful Southwestern YC will have slips and
raft-up accommodations for all participants. There will be a buffet
dinner, drinks, dancing and plenty of chances to tell lies about the
previous nights' racing. The trophy and awards presentation will be on
Monday, July 4th at 9:00am.
Just the same as last year, Pusser’s Rum© will sponsor the
skipper’s &
crew caps, and metal Painkiller® mugs that will be given to each entry
along with the class trophies, these will be the beautiful ceramic
decanters of Pusser’s Rum©, perpetual trophy winners will receive
the
Pusser’s Rum® ceramic hip flasks.
This is really only the beginning, we start on Monday afternoon and for
the rest of the week, a flotilla of boats head back up the coast,
harbor
hopping--with planned stops in Mission Bay, Oceanside and Dana
Point--all
the way to Isthmus Cove on Catalina Island where the partying will
continue with a series of events with Arizona Yacht Club--until we all
head home on Sunday, July 10th.
For more info, including entry forms, you can go to 2 Web sites:
www.smwyc.org (click on ‘racing’) or www.southwesternyc.org. Or you
can
call in MdR- 626) 353-3858 or in San Diego 619) 222-0438
Orlando Duran
Race Chairman
Santa Monica Windjammers' YC/Southwestern YC
Marina del Rey-San Diego Race Committee
orlando.duran@averydennison.com
#11
Main Message Board / Diesel Fuel
April 08, 2005, 03:57:26 PM
I got a race tomorrow and I never like to carry any more fuel than I need to get to the start and home in case the wind disappears.
Well, I got a real shock when I used a 5$ bill and all I got was 1.8 gallons. That is terrible, what can we do about it? Thank goodness we all own SAIL boats. For those of you who need a calculator, It comes to $2.79 per. gal. WOW!
Well, I got a real shock when I used a 5$ bill and all I got was 1.8 gallons. That is terrible, what can we do about it? Thank goodness we all own SAIL boats. For those of you who need a calculator, It comes to $2.79 per. gal. WOW!
#12
Main Message Board / New Boat Bottom
January 16, 2005, 06:46:14 PM
Ken, the first thing you should do is check with the CY by asking Jerry Douglas what he recommends should be done on a NEW boat.
#13
Main Message Board / Wind Dragon
April 25, 2004, 10:32:20 PM
This was during a race on the SF Bay and published in Latitude 38
#14
Main Message Board / Table Cushen
January 19, 2004, 09:07:00 PM
While we are on the subject of cushens and mattresses, I would like to find a replacement for my Table Cushen which got lost somwhere. I asked the factory about making me a new one but they said they do not sell individual cushen. They only sell the entire boat cushens for big $.
#15
Main Message Board / Salt Water Leak/very small
August 13, 2003, 06:46:12 PM
New Type of Leak in The Bilge
After years of searching, I have finally isolated a leak that has been very illusive. This is a saltwater leak that I have pinpointed coming from the forward keel bolt under the washer and from the cross-over drain hole that connects the main bilge to the forward bilge. Remember, I have a Mk 1, 1988.
After drying the bilges VERY DRY, I can see a drop of water forming first, coming from under the washer in about two minutes and than from the cross-over drain hole in about another two to three minutes. The rate of this leak is about 8 ounces per week. Not much, but for a person that likes to see spiders in the bilge, it’s a bummer.
I’m pretty sure it is originating from the seam that connects the hull stub to the keel. I’ve been fighting that seam for years without much success. During haul-outs, I’ve tried all types of filler gook, tried to keep the weight on the forward part of the keel, tighten all the bolts to 125 pd, held vacuum-cleaner hose to the seam, tried heat guns, written a letter to Butler for suggestions, but so far nothing has worked. Now, that I know it is not just a cosmetic problem, I will have to do something more drastic on my next haul. I feel that it must be stopped because water may find it’s way into the wood block that supports the mast. If that happens it may cause wood rot. I certainly do not wish to drop and re-bed the keel for obvious reasons $…
If I am missing something or if you have a suggestion, no matter how far out, let me hear from you.
Dave Davis-
:rolleyes:
After years of searching, I have finally isolated a leak that has been very illusive. This is a saltwater leak that I have pinpointed coming from the forward keel bolt under the washer and from the cross-over drain hole that connects the main bilge to the forward bilge. Remember, I have a Mk 1, 1988.
After drying the bilges VERY DRY, I can see a drop of water forming first, coming from under the washer in about two minutes and than from the cross-over drain hole in about another two to three minutes. The rate of this leak is about 8 ounces per week. Not much, but for a person that likes to see spiders in the bilge, it’s a bummer.
I’m pretty sure it is originating from the seam that connects the hull stub to the keel. I’ve been fighting that seam for years without much success. During haul-outs, I’ve tried all types of filler gook, tried to keep the weight on the forward part of the keel, tighten all the bolts to 125 pd, held vacuum-cleaner hose to the seam, tried heat guns, written a letter to Butler for suggestions, but so far nothing has worked. Now, that I know it is not just a cosmetic problem, I will have to do something more drastic on my next haul. I feel that it must be stopped because water may find it’s way into the wood block that supports the mast. If that happens it may cause wood rot. I certainly do not wish to drop and re-bed the keel for obvious reasons $…
If I am missing something or if you have a suggestion, no matter how far out, let me hear from you.
Dave Davis-
:rolleyes:
#16
Main Message Board / Docking and maneunering /cross wind
April 25, 2003, 12:00:18 PM
I was visiting the boat show yesterday at Jack London Square, Oakland CA. There was a nice demo on how to maneuver in and out of a cross wind dock which has been the subject for the last week. They handed out a publication by Quantum Sails which covered the subject very well. Contact Quantum Sails at 800-711-6996. Or info@quantumsails.com for a copy.It's a 17 page booklet. It's a must! Good luck, Dave
#17
Main Message Board / Prop Efficiency
April 25, 2003, 01:01:24 PM
I visited the Flex-o-Fold Prop booth at the Boat Show yesterday and ran across what might be interesting to some of you that are compairing the efficiency or various props. They have a nice three page report which covers Maxprop,Gori,Flex-o-Fold ,Autoprop?,Volvo, 2bld/3bld, and reverse. They did not test the Martec. If you allready installed the new prop, maybe you should not read the report. Just kidding...Good info. Contact Flex-o-Fold at 781-631-3190 or Email :amsales@flaxfold.com Good luck...Dave
#18
Main Message Board / Sail for sale
March 05, 2002, 06:58:07 PM
I have a dacron 155% Genoa for sale. It has not been used very much and is in excellant shape. Very clean because of the very little use here in the San Francisco Bay. The Luff is 41'1". The LP is 20'5" The total weight is 34#. It does not have a sun shade because it has never been furled.It has a tape luff that fits a Harken head foil. It was made by Sutter Sails, which is a local loft in Sausalito California. Price $600. I'll pay the shipping. :)
#19
Main Message Board / Galvanic Corrosion
November 20, 2001, 10:52:02 AM
I just came out on the hard to redue my bottom, and noticed that my Martec folder prop is in end -of-life status. It's 12 years old and has been rebuilt once before. The pitting and edges are just shot. The prop has been looking sick for several years, but my attitude has been, It's a sailboat, who needs a prop anyway! But, it's time to invest another 600$ and get a new one. Only this time,I'm going to have the boat surveyed for electrical problems and installing an isolator will probably be the next move. I got the feeling that my electrical problems have increased ever since I upgraded to my new ,three year old, Statpower Charger.
By the way, I have my prop and bottom cleaned by a diver about 10 times per year and zincs need replacement about 3 times per year.
By the way, I have my prop and bottom cleaned by a diver about 10 times per year and zincs need replacement about 3 times per year.
#20
Main Message Board / Buying a used C34
November 20, 2001, 06:24:40 PM
Can anyone help this potential member?
From: Kathy Jenkins
To: list@c34.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 4:23 PM
Subject: Catalina 34 engine size
I am in the market for a bigger boat and am looking at the Catalina 34. Georgeous boat. Now you need to know that I am moving up from a Morgan 24 with a 7.5 outboard. My intentions are to retire in the spring and live aboard the next two summers cruising the Great Lakes, and then travel the intracoastal beginning in Detroit, MI and ending in Melbourne, FL. My concern is the size of the engine. Its hard enough to find a used 34 let alone be picky about the engine size. But I don't want to make a total mistake. The Universal 23 seems to be the standard and the Universal 30 harder to find on a used boat. Have found a 1990 at a brokerage with a 23HP. My question is: Will the Universal 23HP be adequate enough to contend with the tides and currents involved with traveling down the coast with some hops out on the ocean? I realilze that bigger is usually better but how have some of you owners on the coast dealt with this problem or is it a problem? kvjenkins@peoplepc.com
From: Kathy Jenkins
To: list@c34.org
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 4:23 PM
Subject: Catalina 34 engine size
I am in the market for a bigger boat and am looking at the Catalina 34. Georgeous boat. Now you need to know that I am moving up from a Morgan 24 with a 7.5 outboard. My intentions are to retire in the spring and live aboard the next two summers cruising the Great Lakes, and then travel the intracoastal beginning in Detroit, MI and ending in Melbourne, FL. My concern is the size of the engine. Its hard enough to find a used 34 let alone be picky about the engine size. But I don't want to make a total mistake. The Universal 23 seems to be the standard and the Universal 30 harder to find on a used boat. Have found a 1990 at a brokerage with a 23HP. My question is: Will the Universal 23HP be adequate enough to contend with the tides and currents involved with traveling down the coast with some hops out on the ocean? I realilze that bigger is usually better but how have some of you owners on the coast dealt with this problem or is it a problem? kvjenkins@peoplepc.com
#21
Main Message Board / Exhaust Riser & Harness
August 19, 2001, 07:47:46 PM
This is a copy of a Email that was written by Ron Hill. This is also a test to see if this will work.
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 19:06:26 -0400
Jeff : I'm traveling and don't have my files with me on this laptop,
but
think I wrote about changing the riser in the Mainsheet (titled-Dollar
Bill
Test). Why are you removing the riser? Most of the problems are where
the
raw water enters the riser - that weld fails and you can see the
crack/leak.
The other failure is where the riser is screwed into the flange. If
it's
just for preventive maintenance, I wouldn't touch the flange if it
isn't
leaking and just have an extra bead welded around where the raw water
nipple
enters the large exhaust riser s.s. pipe. In fact have that nipple
welded
on the outside as well as the INSIDE. That will really strengthen the
"weakest link". Use some liquid wrench on the three flange nuts
(9/16"?)and
let it set overnight. They should come right off. Make sure that you
use
some "anti seize" on the threads when you replace them. I talked to
Gerry
Douglas and told him that I suspect that that nipple weld fails because
they
used stiff wire reinforced hose. The hose angles are not acute so
nylon
reinforced hose(which is much more flexible) could be used. Nylon/cord
reinforced hose would take up some of the vibration (like the hump
hose)
rather than transmitting it all to that nipple. If your old hose from
the
anti-siphon to the nipple is OK use it as it's become flexible "over
time".
If you don't have a "hump hose" now is the time to install one. Also
inspect the inlet to the muffler and maybe add a little glass to beefup
the
inlet tube. After you have the riser welded take it to a radiator shop
and
have it pressure checked for leaks - if it will hold 5 psi for 1 minute
or
less - it's OK. That will let you know that the other welds under the
insulation are also solid.
On the wiring harness upgrade you might look at changing to the new
instrument panel and hard wiring the harness to the panel rather than
using
the "Euro Connector". You really only need the connector at the engine
to
make it easier if you have to remove the engine - for whatever the
reason.
Some people have hard wired both ends. Make sure that you leave about
1/4
inch of wire on either side of the old connector so you can check the
wire
colors. Don't be surprised if the colors of the wires don't match -
because
they won't!! If your wire is short, go under the aft cabin and cut
some of
the wire ties to gain some more length - then retie the wires back up.
Make
sure that you tin the ends of the wire going into the Euro Connector.
Do
only do one wire at a time - cut both sides, tin both sides and then
connect
both sides before moving to the next wire. As I recall there are 3
wires
that aren't connected thru the old "trailer connector" - the electric
fuel
pump, the fuel gage and one other (sense wire for the alternator??).
Some
of the electrical "Gurus" have told me that it's best to file off the
points
of the connector screws, as a flat head gains the best connection.
To clean the inside of the heat exchanger use the household cleaner
"Lime".
Your boat is of the age you might as well get the "Semdure" end
cap/gasket
kit. Look for that kit # in the "Tips" that I wrote in the Mainsheet.
Think that I've given you enough to munch on for awhile. Hope that you
don't mind sharing some of the dialog we've been having with the two
Daves.
Too bad I can't put this on the C34 Net, but when traveling there isn't
any
place that will let you go on line for that long while composing!!
This
info might save some others some work when they're trying to do the
same
thing. So be it, as we've only got this "Great" Message Board, which
only
helps the people reading/looking rather than the people writing the
answers
and contributing!!! Maybe that's why they don't contribute - it's just
too
tough and it's easier to be spoon fed; even though they've done the
same fix
and found a slightly different twist! You can't believe how much I've
added/edited as I reread this reply, and THANK the Lord for spell
check.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Ron APACHE #788
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 19:06:26 -0400
Jeff : I'm traveling and don't have my files with me on this laptop,
but
think I wrote about changing the riser in the Mainsheet (titled-Dollar
Bill
Test). Why are you removing the riser? Most of the problems are where
the
raw water enters the riser - that weld fails and you can see the
crack/leak.
The other failure is where the riser is screwed into the flange. If
it's
just for preventive maintenance, I wouldn't touch the flange if it
isn't
leaking and just have an extra bead welded around where the raw water
nipple
enters the large exhaust riser s.s. pipe. In fact have that nipple
welded
on the outside as well as the INSIDE. That will really strengthen the
"weakest link". Use some liquid wrench on the three flange nuts
(9/16"?)and
let it set overnight. They should come right off. Make sure that you
use
some "anti seize" on the threads when you replace them. I talked to
Gerry
Douglas and told him that I suspect that that nipple weld fails because
they
used stiff wire reinforced hose. The hose angles are not acute so
nylon
reinforced hose(which is much more flexible) could be used. Nylon/cord
reinforced hose would take up some of the vibration (like the hump
hose)
rather than transmitting it all to that nipple. If your old hose from
the
anti-siphon to the nipple is OK use it as it's become flexible "over
time".
If you don't have a "hump hose" now is the time to install one. Also
inspect the inlet to the muffler and maybe add a little glass to beefup
the
inlet tube. After you have the riser welded take it to a radiator shop
and
have it pressure checked for leaks - if it will hold 5 psi for 1 minute
or
less - it's OK. That will let you know that the other welds under the
insulation are also solid.
On the wiring harness upgrade you might look at changing to the new
instrument panel and hard wiring the harness to the panel rather than
using
the "Euro Connector". You really only need the connector at the engine
to
make it easier if you have to remove the engine - for whatever the
reason.
Some people have hard wired both ends. Make sure that you leave about
1/4
inch of wire on either side of the old connector so you can check the
wire
colors. Don't be surprised if the colors of the wires don't match -
because
they won't!! If your wire is short, go under the aft cabin and cut
some of
the wire ties to gain some more length - then retie the wires back up.
Make
sure that you tin the ends of the wire going into the Euro Connector.
Do
only do one wire at a time - cut both sides, tin both sides and then
connect
both sides before moving to the next wire. As I recall there are 3
wires
that aren't connected thru the old "trailer connector" - the electric
fuel
pump, the fuel gage and one other (sense wire for the alternator??).
Some
of the electrical "Gurus" have told me that it's best to file off the
points
of the connector screws, as a flat head gains the best connection.
To clean the inside of the heat exchanger use the household cleaner
"Lime".
Your boat is of the age you might as well get the "Semdure" end
cap/gasket
kit. Look for that kit # in the "Tips" that I wrote in the Mainsheet.
Think that I've given you enough to munch on for awhile. Hope that you
don't mind sharing some of the dialog we've been having with the two
Daves.
Too bad I can't put this on the C34 Net, but when traveling there isn't
any
place that will let you go on line for that long while composing!!
This
info might save some others some work when they're trying to do the
same
thing. So be it, as we've only got this "Great" Message Board, which
only
helps the people reading/looking rather than the people writing the
answers
and contributing!!! Maybe that's why they don't contribute - it's just
too
tough and it's easier to be spoon fed; even though they've done the
same fix
and found a slightly different twist! You can't believe how much I've
added/edited as I reread this reply, and THANK the Lord for spell
check.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Ron APACHE #788
#22
Main Message Board / polar diag from the index search
June 26, 2001, 01:08:16 PMPages1