Messages

The reference that Stu mentioned in the previous post about "arvelgentry" was fascinating. I could not understand any of it but it sure does blow away the old theories of how "lift" works on sails. It really says to forget all the old theories. It has nothing to do about the wind at the top of the mast vs the bottom. Fascinating! click on  "lift".
Thanks Stu for ruining my day
Dave

My 1988 #707 has a depress track but I bought the special cars that were machined for fitting in the groove with no interference. In order to move the car forward under high load conditions, Guido fixed me with a 6/1 purchase instead of the normal 4/1. Even with lots a wind and the gib very tight,! can move it forward quite nicely. By connecting the return line on the cabin side wall you can get a better direct pull.
Good luck, dave

Sounds like you are getting lots of help about the lines and blocks. Good stuff.
I would like to add two thoughts that gave me a bad time when I was replacing the ourhaul.
1. I had a very hard time getting the boom back to line up with the goosneck casting. The rigid boom vang has to be set just right so the fit lines up with the screw holes. In order to get both fittings to line up, you should tie the boom vang nice and tight so that it will not move when you disconnect the boom from the goosneck. You may have to release the vang if you did not tie it in place. Of coerce, this does not apply if you are not using a rigid vang.

2. Whatever line you use for the aft end (1/4-5/16), make sure you do not use the high tech non- stretch line that does not have a protective sun coating. The sun got to my outhall and it just ruined it in the first few years. My boom cover was not quite long enough to protect the overhang at the clew end.
Good Luck, Dave

Rick, in your reply #2 I have a problem reading your message. Either my copy of Chapman (57 th edition)is wrong or your copy of the three lines of message is goofy. It looks like many of the flags have been turned 90%. THE top line is OK but the other two lines have many mistakes. Chapman shows several flags that spell out a message with several flags on one staff. Page 581. Sorry about that, Dave

If you sail in an area that frequently blows above 15 knots, you may consider getting a 6/1 system instead of the standard 4/1. Call Garhauer and ask for Guido. He made me a 6/1 using three high forward block and a triple fiddle block aft. Also, don't mount the swivel cam cleats on the track where they are hard to reach. Mount the cam cleats on the cabin side wall where you can get a straight pull.
Good Luck, Dave

Hi Bob Kuba and Rainbow, I am not interested in a smaller table because when I go on distant races I need the space for several crew.
My problem is, I lost the foam cushion that fits for sleeping on the table. Please don't ask how I lost it. Anyway, if you still have the old cushion that fits a 1988 vintage, I would be interested in buying it, Especially the blue one that Bob has. The cost may be better than starting from scratch. I keep "Wind Dragon" in SF. My Phone is 650-948-3461, whats yours?
Thanks, Dave

Rick,
I found the report on the advantages of bypassing the deck organizer.
Try:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=89.0  this can be found in the Feb issue of the Tech Notes. Vol 15#1 Good Luck,
Dave

Rick, thanks for the explanation and the nice photos of your workmanship.
What you have done is to take care of most of the vertical missalignment which is valid. But, you have not addressed the horizontal misalignment. You can get additional efficiency by eliminating the deck organizers completely.
I have measured to effect of lifting a 40 pound weight off the deck with and without using the deck organizer. This test was written up several years ago but I can not find the results. Maybe Stu can locate the results. He is much better at finding old data. My notes on the subject is as follows. It takes 125lbs to lift the 40lbs weight when going through the organizer and it takes 84lbs to lift going direct without the organizer.
Good Luck, Dave

Thanks Ron, I got an old one that is 9 inch and it fits fine. I just would like to give my 6 incher away to any one that may need it. Maybe no one can use it?
Dave

I have a new 6 inch hump hose made by TRIDENT, marine wet exhaust #272V VHT Silicone. It is too short for my application. I would he happy to give it away to anyone that could use it.
Let me know by this method or Email at <davis_707@yahoo.com> or 650-948-3461
Dave

The replacement fuel tank for a 1988 boat that I just bought and arrived Monday was made out of Aluminum Alloy 50-52. What they are putting on new boat is unknown to me. You might give Jerry Douglas at CY a call to answer your question. I bought my new tank from the CY parts department. Jerry designs new boats.
Good Luck,
Dave

[CLEAN VS. REPLACE]

Hi Skippers,
This is an option that you might concider. There has been lots of information about how you should clean the old fuel tank and how difficult it is to do a through job. My c34 is 19 years young and it was doing just great until two weeks ago when I took a look in the bilge,which I do every time I visit Wind Dragon. I found it looking horrible with a 1-2 inch layer of RED fuel that looked like blood. Yes, it smelled like fuel and it certainly was red diesel.
I figure there are 706 boats out there that are as old or older than # 707 Wind Dragon. I motered it over to to the SF Boatworks where they pumped the bilge and tank and pulled out the tank. We found two corrosion holes in the bottom of the tank. We pressurized the tank with low pressure air and bubble tested the the rest of the tank. The welds looked good.
These old original tanks are made out of Aluminum alloy# 50-52 which is a good weldable alloy. I do not know if it is the best alloy for diesel, but it is made out of .062 which is, in my opinion rather thin. The new tanks are twice the thickness .125 in. The new tanks come with all the ready to go fitting and a new sender. They do not come with new hoses which is a good addition at the replacement time.
The cost of the tank from CY is $475 plus tax and ship. CY part # is 20791 These new tanks have not been painted which concerns me but shoud last at least 20 or more years.
Now, you can make your choice, CLEAN VS. REPLACE
Good Luck,
Dave

I have some very recent relationship with the parts dept. at CY. You are very correct, the Email system is broken. No responce at all. But the direct communication by phone with Kent Nelson was a good experience. You can call 1-800-654-2914 and ask for kent.
Good Luck, Dave

From the little teak stepping block on the transom.
Dave

I replaced several items on the panel for upgrade and got them from Seaward Products at 562-699-7997
You can get a new start switch and /or a new ign. swith with the rubber cover.
dave