Messages

[MOVE THEM !!!!!]

Benrd : Thump the hull and you'll find a bulkhead just aft of where the center stands are now.

MOVE THEM !!!!! 

Also make sure that the majority of the weight is on the nose of the keel - Check to make sure that the majority of the weight is NOT on the fwd stands!!

On my boat (wing keel) the fwd stands are just there and snug against the hull - no weight!

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[NO PAPER in to the head/holding tank]

Guys : The best way to treat your holding than is NO PAPER in to the head/holding tank!!!

I talked to the Japsco reps and they agree!! 

We put all used toilet tissue/paper in a zip lock bag and dispose of it with the garbage!!

A few thoughts

Alex : Nice photos!!   

Guys : The Mk II has a Corian rather than a Formica counter top.

Depending on your lid, I was able to screw a brass cup holder in the underside of the teak above and have it catch (when open) the ring on the fridge lid - so it will stay open!!   

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Dan : Look at page 4.3.3 (plumbing) and page 4.3.1. (thru hulls) of your owners manual - or the MK 1 manual on our site - Straight forward.
There are a number of owner mods to the galley sink drain and mods to the shower drain as posts on this site. 

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Keel : Look at the M35BC engine manual!!

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guys : It was in the 1988 production that the factory started to install a single throw, double pole 30 amp breaker with a reverse polarity light!!

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Keel : 5/8" hose is both for the inlet and the outlet. I believe that you have the inlet hose circled!!

What I did was to move the inlet hose so it is under the outlet hose. That way you can change the drive belt without having to remove a hose from the Sherwood.!!

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Cliff : The standard transom C34s have the propane bottle in a box that sets on a platform that's on top of the aft water tank. Not sure where the "sugar scoop" transom boats have their propane box??  The box is vented aft thru the transom.

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Keel : 5/8" hose is what you need.
I don't know the routing of that hose to the raw water thru hull, but if your hose does NOT make any acute turns you do not need a wire reinforced hose and you can get a replacement hose at an auto parts store!! Heck of a lot cheaper!! $$

Why are you replacing that hose??

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Guys : Before you start tearing things apart - spend a few $$ on a heat detection gun and see what the temperature of the engine really is!!   

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Guys : I had to "work at it", but I got the 1 1/4" because it gives greater deadening of the sound!!  BTW, I only used screws & washers!!

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Guys : I used screws with washers to in stall mine. Also I installed the 1 1/4 thick!!
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Pete : Look at Defender I was very pleased with their engine insulation!!   

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[ON]

Breaking : What I did with my new engine (wiring for the M25xpB engine came with has the same screwed up wiring harness as the M35BC engine -- was to remove that factory wiring harness!!
 
What Westerbeke was trying to do is - when the oil pressure drops, the electric fuel pump stops and the engine then shuts down!! The only problem is that with the C34, the fuel tank is higher than the engine so when the electric fuel pump stops the fuel will continue to syphon and the engine will still continue to run!!

So what I did was to wire the glow plugs directly into the momentary (spring loaded) position on the key switch. Then I wired the electric fuel pump into the ON terminal of the key switch. The oil alarm switch is a single terminal and wired into a buzzer in the engine instrument panel. No pressure the alarm comes ON (very loud) and when the oil pressure come back up it is OFF (silent).  The Westerbeke wiring harness went into the junk pile!!

Simple as that !! 

A few thoughts