Keel Bolt Update

[DaveBMusik]

I thought I would give an update on the status of my bilge and keelbolts.
I knew when we purchased #206 two years ago that there had been some water between the keel and hull (brown stain from seam).
The first summer was spent stressing over a leaking keel bolt - some butyl tape actually stopped the leak!
When we pulled the boat out of the water this past fall, the Catalina smile had opened up.
Following Catalina's instruction, we pulled out the plywood between the bilge floor and hull and replaced with layers of fiberglass mat. Most of the wood was good but a bit in the 3rd compartment was black and damp.
Not knowing the history of the boat, I decided to drop the keel and inspect the keel bolts (many suggest this as maintenance after 30 years anyway).
The good news, all of the bolts were in excellent condition after 30 years despite sea water in the seam.
Today, the keel was slathered with 5200, the boat is one again and I can rest easy.

A bit more fiberglass work, some barrier epoxy & bottom paint and into the water next week to enjoy the arrival of warm weather in the North East at last!

Happy Sailing!

[KWKloeber]

Dave

Did you drop the keel, or lift the hull (my method)

How did you assure that the keel went back in exactly the same plumb position it was on before (long story, don't ask). LOL.

ken

PS. I wrapped the joint with biaxial fiberglass tape/epoxy, then faired over. That was recommended to minimize any movement/cracking of the fairing.

[DaveBMusik]

Dave

Did you drop the keel, or lift the hull (my method)

How did you assure that the keel went back in exactly the same plumb position it was on before (long story, don't ask). LOL.

ken

PS. I wrapped the joint with biaxial fiberglass tape/epoxy, then faired over. That was recommended to minimize any movement/cracking of the fairing.

Yes, lifted the hull. We are doing the fiberglass work around the seam now.
I was unable to be there when the keel went back on but the fiberglass guy made a big deal of fixing the slightly canted keel from the factory. I did not measure yesterday, but it looked good.

[KWKloeber]

OMG Dave

It's too late now, I wish I knew your keel fate before now.  The 'fiberglass guy' also made the mistake of fixing the cantedd keel when mine went back on.

I will bet you a 6-pack that if you check with him, that the keel was canted about 2" (at the bottom from plumb) to starboard? 

At least in my case that cant (I discovered too late) corrected the nortorious Catalina port list.  After the 'fiberglass guy' bolted up my 5200 slathered keel perfectly plumb (determined by the 'Engineer guy' using precise survey equipment) the 'owner guy' ended up with a wicked port list.  Now everything rolls to port, any water accumulates to port, the kero lantern hangs off plumb, and walking down the pier it basically looks like she's in a gale wind sitting in the slip.

I PRAY you're going to tell me you had a list before and the fiberglass guy plumbed the keel to counteract that?!?!  PLEASE TELL ME that's the case. I WANT so badly to loose that wager.

K

[DaveBMusik]

Ahh, isn't boating fun....
I'll  let you know in a week.

[Breakin Away]

I'm still a newcomer to C34 land, so this is the first I've ever heard of the "notorious port list." My boat is on the hard now (ready to go back in in 9 days), and before redoing my bottom paint I noticed that the scum line was an inch or two higher on the port side. Is this port list known to affect my vintage of boat? I also noticed that the waterline shows the boat resting bow high (if boot stripe is accurate), so I've only filled the bow water tank for now (since I'll have skinny water at the sling lift and want the rudder as high out of the mud as possible during launch).

I also remember noting that my prior C250's keel was canted to one side, and always thought it was just manufacturing slop. Now I guess it's a fairly common trick that Catalina uses to offset balance issues in their design?

[scgunner]

       This is very interesting. My C34 hull #273 sits square in the water and when I've had it the yard for bottom paint, while I've never actually measured it, it appears to be square also.

[KWKloeber]

       This is very interesting. My C34 hull #273 sits square in the water and when I've had it the yard for bottom paint, while I've never actually measured it, it appears to be square also.

Same for my 30, Kevin.  It was only when I was VERY careful about leveling up the hull six ways from Sunday in the cradle and measuring the keel position, did I realize it.  It was "only" 1-1/2 to 2 inches or so, but (obviously now) that's "all it takes."

ken

[KWKloeber]

Breakin Away

The port list in the early C-30s is well documented.  My '84 (3573'd boat built) DID NOT (well, used to not) have a list, nor do I know of any of the late Mk-I vintage that (widespread anyway) have the port list.  Sometime in the history of the C-30 Mk-I, CTY "fixed" the problem.  Don't get me wrong -- I'm very ok with what CTY did. 

Whether the Mk-I C34s (as a class) had the list, I simply don't know.  I have heard about one or two, but they may be an anomaly -- OR perhaps, using its experience on the C-30s Mk-Is) CTY "adjusted" to compensate for the list.

Before the, "Catalina is a wonderful boat and a superior company, stop your bitchin" replies come rolling in, I HAVE no problem that CTY had a design/weight issue, nor how they adjusted for it.  My problem with it is, well, ranted about here:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9240.msg67822.html#msg67822

Anyone whose ear hairs singe whilst hearing any negative word about CTY, PLEASE don't click on that link. I have ALREADY agreed that CTYs are great boats for the money (and better built than x, or y, or z brand boats.)

Cheers,
Ken

[scgunner]

     Ken,

        While my dealings with CTY have been mostly positive, I feel like any company, CTY included, is only as good as their last customer.

         I gotta ask after all that did you get that list corrected? If not you might try what ships damaged in combat do to correct a list---counter flooding.

[KWKloeber]

Kevin

No, it's 5200'd on, like Dave did.  So now ain't going anywhere w/o major sweat effort.

I did speak with a company who turns fins into shoal keels with bolt-on bulbs and cutting the fin shorter.  They weren't positive about being able to correct the list doing that.  Obviously, it gets more difficult as the moment arm is shortened going from a fin to a shoal.

ken

[Stu Jackson]

   
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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         I gotta ask after all that did you get that list corrected? If not you might try what ships damaged in combat do to correct a list---counter flooding.

Many times on this & other boating forums, I have read of people suggesting adding lead to offset lists.

I then recommend that the best example of useful lead are more batteries. 

[scgunner]

    Ken,

       I'd be reluctant to cut on the keel, it sounds expensive and results dubious, and you'll have no idea how it will perform until you get it in the water. Reballasting the boat might be your best option.

[KWKloeber]

    Ken,

       I'd be reluctant to cut on the keel, it sounds expensive and results dubious, and you'll have no idea how it will perform until you get it in the water. Reballasting the boat might be your best option.

Kevin

Yep I was reluctant after the experts at doing it expresses some "unsurances"" about their outcome.
I'd hafta work up some force-moment diagrams to see what would be required and if it's worth it.  It may not be fixable, and if it is, at what cost?  And what space gets lost in the process. I have no need for 10 storage batteries :-). Maybe hang an effigy of the oerson who played a major role in  this from a starboard outrigger?  Ha!

But also a factor was that at the time a shoal keel was very inviting.

K

[DaveBMusik]

Splashed today and mast looks vertical with all tanks empty except fuel - maybe a slight list to port but water in the starboard tank may take care of that.
I feel a great deal of comfort having checked the bolts and removing the plywood under the bilge!