Adler Barbour refrigerator replacement

[DaveBMusik]

     Dave,

        Is that the locker across from the galley or the one in the V-berth? It seems there's no correct location(which I had originally assumed)for this unit, it's more whatever creativity will allow.

Sorry for the confusion, between head and nav station

[Stu Jackson]

Jeff,

Pictures of the evaporator with one of my two ice cube trays.  Also included is the nifty ice cube tray "holder" that sits in the bottom of the evaporator and keeps the tray(s) from falling over. 

Kevin,

Please note the handy hatch holder spring thingy that holds the fridge door open, hinges added on outboard side of the fridge door (one of the first mods I made based on 1987-era Mainsheet article(s)).  I have one on my nav station desktop, too.

[Jeff Tancock]

Interesting, all of the variations.

Jon W...I am planning on putting my compressor in the same location as you have. I am interested in your knowledge/experience installing the vents. How did you cut through the glass, would you do it the same way again, how thick was it there???

[scgunner]

     Jeff,

      I assume now that you've the pictures you've seen we all have the same box, and how you can mount the evaporator. That being said I think if I were doing a new install I'd go with Jon's option too. The advantages are; it's in a cool, dry space and you don't have to worry about the great coolant line length controversy.

[Jeff Tancock]

Yes I agree on the location. I've been thinking about it for the last year or so and that was the top choice with the locker by  the nav. table a second.
I'm thinking the Nova kool unit with the same bucket style freezer box. Would like to keep my wire racks if they work, if not I'll just get same plexi ones made.
Just wondering about cutting through the bulkhead. Grinder, jigsaw, holesaw?

[Noah]

Pic of my wire racks and my guest's taste in beverages

[scgunner]

    Jeff,

     An 1 1/2" hole saw should do the trick, you'll need it that big to get the fittings through. I'm sure you can modify your wire racks to fit.

[Jon W]

Hi Jeff. The hole for the vent shown in the photo I posted above was done before I got the boat. I like the location and would install in the same place if I were to do it again. Pros are easy to check, service, dry, and cool location. Cons are you lose some storage space.

I added the two vents in the battery compartment. I used a Milwaukee brand "dozer" hole saw for them. A hole saw would work on this bulkhead too. Just make sure to hold the drill tight. If the hole saw catches it will rip the drill out of your hand. The battery compartment has a double wall but am pretty sure the bulkhead with the compressor vent is single wall. I will be working on the boat tomorrow so will check the hole diameter and the bulkhead thickness and add to this post.

[Jon W]

I ran into a few changes in the project I'm working on, so I wasn't able to confirm the bulkhead thickness and that it's a single wall but will tomorrow. My apologies for the delay.

[Jon W]

The bulkhead is single wall about 1/8" thick fiberglass. The hole for the vent is ~ 3 1/4" diameter. I've attached 2 photos for reference.

[Jeff Tancock]

Thanks Jon!
Do you think that 3-1/4" is big enough for optimal air movement?

[Jon W]

It provides clearance for almost the entire set of cooling tubes. I think it's the right size. My PO did good. Another pro to having it easy to access is you can wipe off the stuff that gets packed onto the cooling fins.

[Stu Jackson]

Thanks Jon!
Do you think that 3-1/4" is big enough for optimal air movement?

Jeff,  the fan behind the coil is 4 inch square.  I suggest you just get a 4 inch square vent.

[Jon W]

The black vent cover is 4" square and attached to the bulkhead with 4 #6 pan head SST screws. The hole behind the cover shown in the photo is ~ 3 1/4" diameter.