exterior teak trim question

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anon

I may not be able to get around to finishing my teak trim before the onset of winter. I have it stripped.
Apart from the ugliness, are there any other significant issues with leaving it naked until I am living aboard my boat next Springtime?
(A horrible question for some I am sure).
"ALBION"
HULL #369
M25XP

Stu Jackson

Not at all.  I removed the finishing two years ago from my eyebrows and handrails, deliberately.  :D

Last month all I did was apply teak cleaner.  I'm leaving them bare.

Our cockpit wood had cetol which was seven years down the road.  We stripped it, cleaned and bleached it and reapplied cetol.

Your boat, your choice.   :D

Then there's always this:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9341.msg69249.html#msg69249
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

anon

Thank you so much. I have a person urging me for them to do the work and apply cetol "before winter". At $30 per hour and no quote for the amount of time needed. I don't think so!
The link is hilarious.  :D
Thanks again.
"ALBION"
HULL #369
M25XP

KWKloeber

Alby

If it isn't removed from the boat, the downside is that with no finish to protect it more of the soft grain will get worn and you'll have to sand off more of the "good" wood if you want a smooth finish.
Also, repeating some portion of the work you already did to clean it up before finishing.

It's always best to not bite off more than you can chew in one round of refinishing.

Ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Jim Hardesty

#4
There may be another option. Varnish under the winter cover.  It does work, on my previous boat I varnished in place over winter and it worked fine.  A couple of tips.  Need good light.  Canvas cover is OK, white shrink wrap is very good blue was really a problem for me due to the blue light coming through the shrink wrap.  Every thing does take longer.  May take days for the varnish to dry but it will. 
It works in Erie Pa.  We get lots of winter and a usually a late wet spring.  May take a good part of the summer to build up a a number of coats if you wait till then.  I'd rather be sailing.
Just trying to give another option.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Mas Tequila

I've been thinking about giving Jamestown Distributors TotalBoat Halcyon marine varnish a try. It is a fast dry formula which allows you to apply a number of coats in a single day without sanding between coats. I've given their TotalBoat epoxy a try and love it. Again I haven't used this product yet but will be stripping my teak this winter and am planning on giving this a try.

From their website: Halcyon cures to a harder surface than other 1-part varnishes, exhibiting excellent abrasion, scratch & solvent resistance. Since it dries super fast, you can recoat in as little as 1 hour at 72°F, with no sanding between coats. Resealable Pour Pak™ bag prevents skinning over & waste. Soap & water cleanup.

There is only one review on this product on Jamestown's website, the reviewer said that it goes on quite thin but was able to apply six coats in a day. He gives it 5 stars, I guess I'll find out for myself.

I love the look of varnished britework but don't have the time to spend days building up coat after coat.

Positive Latitude
1986 MKI hull # 11
Frankfort, MI

Ron Hill

Albion : You can remove the teak, but just make sure that you put a small dab of caulk on any screw holes - to make sure that water doesn't get into the plywood core!!   :thumb:

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

anon

Thanks for all the advice. When I said "stripped", I meant I have used a heat gun and glass paper to remove the old finishes. I will leave the trim on the boat. I am getting new Sunbrella sail, wheel/instruments, handrails and forward hatch covers made and will leave teak in place until I am living aboard, bored next year.
I did strip the eyebrows and filled the holes with color matched resin from Catalina Direct.
(Talking about sunbrella stuff, I am also thinking about having a boom tent made until I get around to making that fiberglass dodger).
"ALBION"
HULL #369
M25XP

Ron Hill

Albion : Look in the Mainsheet tech notes and you'll find an article and pictures of my "summer" cover (boom tent) and how I secured it.

It sure saved the teak and made the boat interior 5-10 degrees cooler!! 

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Ron Hill

Guys : I mentioned this long ago - I took off the "15' long eyebrow teak strips on each side".
 
I used some short 1/4" stainless screws and stainless #4 finishing washers to "plug the holes" (with a dab of caulk)  Looks Great!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Mark Sutherland

Albion, I removed my eyebrows, filled the holes and replaced the brows with 3/4" navy colored striping tape.  I was very happy with the look.
Dunrobin II, 1986 C34 MK1 #170