Waxing / restoring gel coat

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anon

I still work 6 days a week while I prepare my '87 for full time life aboard and cruising. Because I work I have a local guy who enjoys washing the boat once a week and has offered to do more including restoring the bright work and keeping her waxed. I bought a highly rated De Walt buffer / polisher for removing oxidation but my guy says he prefers to do it by hand. My question is how I can measure the effectiveness of de-oxidation and waxing, apart from a nice shine? I also bought Meguiars oxidation remover and marine wax plus chemical guys set of foam pads.
Thank you in advance.
"ALBION"
HULL #369
M25XP

Stu Jackson

Sophie,

Here is an "internet classic":

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/tips-for-a-great-buff-wax.117266/

No need to ever "Thanks in advance."  We're a tight knit community, with easy back and forth.  "...in advance.." is also a newbie thing, and now you're no longer one.   :clap :clap :clap :D :D :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

mark_53

Sophie. I just finished compounding and waxing the hull with McGuire's pre wax cleaner and then waxed with McGuire's cleaner and wax. I started using a power tool but switched to applying by hand mainly because the tool was heavy. I'm happy with the result. The wax will protect, just a matter of how much time your willing to put in to get that mirror finish.

anon

Thanks Mark / Stu.
I have forwarded the link to my guy at the dock. The DeWalt tool I bought certainly is heavy so I understand his reluctance to use it. I also read that an inexperienced and or careless person might easily damage the gel coat badly with a power tool. Apparently the key thing with polishers is to have the "soft start" so that you can place the pad on the boat and start the machine slowly. This prevents a full speed tool digging into the gel coat.

"ALBION"
HULL #369
M25XP

patrice

Hi,

I did wax the boat before lauching.
I applied the wax (mcguire) by hand.   section about 3ft width.
When it start to dry.  I used an orbital buffer.  Make a nice job.  It is not heavy to handle, and you won't burn the gelcoat like you could with the big buffer if you are not carefull.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/simoniz-orbital-polisher-10-in-0399055p.html#srp
_____________
Patrice
1989 MKI #970
TR, WK, M25XP
   _/)  Free Spirit
~~~~~~

mark_53

Patrice, that smaller one looks much lighter than my HF polisher. The thing about the power tool is you can't get into the narrow spots. Have to use hand polishing to do that anyway. Might as well do it all at once.

anon

If I am not concerned with shine and just want to protect my boat from UV and pollution until it is hauled next Spring, what would be the recommended process?
(I will probably have nothing but time next year. At that point and when the boat is out of the water I am keen to follow Maine Sail's process step by step).
"ALBION"
HULL #369
M25XP

patrice

Quote from: mark_53 on May 31, 2017, 12:05:50 PM
Patrice, that smaller one looks much lighter than my HF polisher. The thing about the power tool is you can't get into the narrow spots. Have to use hand polishing to do that anyway. Might as well do it all at once.

Hi,  i use it for the hull.  Goes great.
Yes for thight spot, i do it by hand.
It is easier for shoulder and arm with powertools.
_____________
Patrice
1989 MKI #970
TR, WK, M25XP
   _/)  Free Spirit
~~~~~~

KWKloeber

Quote from: Sophie on May 31, 2017, 10:17:11 AM

I have forwarded the link to my guy at the dock. The DeWalt tool I bought certainly is heavy so I understand his reluctance to use it.



I have a Porter Cable 6" random orbital which isn't "light."
When doing topsides, I hang it from the top lifeline by a bungee that carries like half its weight.  The hook just slides along with me (until the next stanchion).


The next step will be a block w/ a hook on the lifeline and a line/counterweight system so it keeps the same tension, no matter what position (vertically) I am at on the hull.


yukyuk
k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

mregan

 I use a combination of a 10" orbital and a variable speed power buffer on the hull. Will use the orbital to apply the wax and once dry, to take off the majority of the wax. Then will go over it with the power buffer and take the rest of the wax off.  Find the power buffer gives it a better shine.  Also works better if there is a lot of oxidation.  It is heavy though. 
I bought a cordless 6" buffer for the topsides.  Got it a Home Depot.  Works okay.  Gives me something to do when I'm at anchor and bored plus it's small enough to get around the topsides better than the other two bigger ones.
I tried the hand waxing and buffing on the hull one time.  Felt like Danielson in Karate Kid after washing and waxing Mr. Miagee's cars all day.  I thought my arms were going to fall off.

Roc

I have an orbital buffer called my 13 year old daughter. Ever since she could hold a rag, she loves waxing the boat. The weeks leading up to waxing time, she can't wait. I also have a variable speed model. Doubles as my wife. The three of us wax the whole boat by hand. It's a family tradition.
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD