Air conditioner comparisons

[Lance Jones]

I installed a 16K btu Marinaire about 3 years ago. Not the smartest choice I've made......

The unit is broken - again. Do NOT buy this brand.

Now, I am comparing the Wabasco FCF 16k to the Marine Air 16k. What is this esteemed groups recommendations. Both are reverse cycle heating.

[Ekutney]

I reviewed all the different AC vendors and decided to go with Cruisair unit.

http://citimarinestore.com/en/self-contained/3468-stx12-115v.html

I had a very reputable local guy (Denny from Annapolis Cruisair) come aboard the boat and he suggested a 12K unit.  He has been doing AC for a long time and has worked with all the past and current manufacturers and says these new units are very efficient and well built.  He said a 16K would short cycle and would cool the boat down quicker but it would not run long enough to dehumidify the air.  I ended up buying a 12K unit then had an AC guy he recommended do a good bit of the install.

I can tell you after a very HOT summer in Maryland the unit did an outstanding job.  It is installed in the Nav Locker with a vent coming straight out the top of the locker and directed the middle of the salon.  I also have a 4in duct running behind the bulkhead in the head to a single vent in the aft cabin.  Per the guy that looked at the boat a fan pushed air into the V berth.  He explained the best thing to do is get air to the overhead center of the salon.  In the middle of the summer when it was over 100 deg outside and over 90 humidity the boat stayed comfortable.  The biggest issue I had was keeping the sea strainer cleaned (a jelly fish getting sucked into the intake tends to block the water flow).  I just stopped using it about 2 weeks ago because the water temp got down below 40 deg.  I must say that it did an excellent job in the HEAT mode as well and I still use the FAN only mode to keep air moving to distribute hot air from small heaters.

[Lance Jones]

Thanks for the info. Living on board in Florida, the seasons consist of Spring, Summmmmmmmmer, and Fall. We had a 12k before and it just didn't hack it. With our current 16k Mainaire, the temp keeps cool during the day AND the humidity stays about 60%. Also, I am able to push air from under the v-berth, via ducting, into the v-berth, main salon, head, and aft cabin.

I installed a duct fan before the head. By the time the air has been pushed that far, it is still cool but, a bit weak. I have that on it's own breaker so that on the cooler days when we don't run the a/c, we still have air circulation back there.

[Ekutney]

I fully get the weather in FLA is much hotter then here in MD, also a lot more bright sunny days.

The unit I got also came in a 16K version, about the same size.  I was told one of the failure areas with Marine AC units is the pan it is mounted in, the unit I got has a composite pan with good channeling to a single low spot that drains all condensation.

What kind of inline blower did you use in the ducting?  I get lots of airflow at the outlet above the Nav Station because it is right off the blower, much much less in the aft cabin.

[Lance Jones]

Similar to this. I also have the sensor that turns it on when the A/C kicks in.
http://www.rewci.com/4-inch-duct-booster-fan-suncourt-80-cfm-db204p.html

[Roc]

Has anyone installed the Flagship Marine unit?  I like that you can have radiant heat.  Boat can be on the hard and the heat will work.

http://flagshipmarine.com/selfcontained.html

[Jim Hardesty]

I installed an Ocean Breeze 16,700 BTU with resistance heat.  Heat works good and is quiet.  The kit was complete and reasonably easy to install.  The factory help was very good. 
I found the hatch boards were very inconvenient with the ac.  So doors (Zacor) was an added expense for me.
Hope that helps,
Jim

[Lance Jones]

Thanks for the responses! 

[sailaway]

Boating on lake erie I installed a 12k unit works very well at nite. Also the amp draw is 15 amps so I didn't have to install an extra cord. Charlie

[KWKloeber]

Boating on lake erie I installed a 12k unit works very well at nite. Also the amp draw is 15 amps so I didn't have to install an extra cord. Charlie

Just note that if you're still using the old twist-lock cord/connector, the safe load is like 75 - 80% of 30 amps, so that leaves about ~ 7-8 amps remaining for all other loads.

If you switched to the SmartPlug you'll have ~ 15 amps left for the remaining loads.

-ken

[Breakin Away]

I assume that marina needs to also upgrade their pedestal connector to achieve this benefit, right?

[KWKloeber]

Naturally that would be the greatest benefit, but I wouldn't look for that to happen in our lifetime. 

The most critical end is typically at the boat where, more often than not, the overheating, charring, fires, etc., occur.  That end is easily stressed, often not engaged correctly, more often corroded, etc, --  than the shore end.   On the shore power stanchion, you can make sure a new connector is installed with dielectric grease, not pulled/stressed, not exposed to weather, etc.  I tie my cord/connector off with a 3/16" nylon cord so there's absolutely no stress on the connection.  Note that there's a Catalina Association discount group offer on the SmartPlug.

-kk

I assume that marina needs to also upgrade their pedestal connector to achieve this benefit, right?