Bow Anchor Roller Removal

[Jim Brener]

I would like to remove the bow anchor roller to straighten one side which is bent out of position (don't ask how).  It is held by 5 large slot heads either screws or bolts. Has anyone attempted this and knows how it is fastened to the deck.  If it is through bolted, I don't see any way to access it.  I think it will be difficult to get enough leverage to do this on the boat.

[Paulus]

Jim, I did my anchor roller due to one bolt leaking.  On my boat it went through the deck, backing plate, washers and nuts on the other end.  I have a 5 or 6" round port in the locker.  Able to get it off and just let the bolts, washers and backing plate drop down under the V berth.  Replacing it took an extra set of hands to get it back on. 
Paul

[tommyt]

MKII have the same set up as Paul. However, they used some very good glue/sealant on this install. Bolts came out as in Paul's case, did manage to capture ours. Bought a small spray bottle at WM that loosened sealant pretty well. Still took some leverage. In my case I used a rope vang from another boat. Placed a 2x6 across the bow pulpit and pulled slowly until things loosened up. As in most things boat, it would have helped to have long thin arms. I do not qualify on either count.

[Jon W]

Hi Jim,
     I'm upgrading the anchor roller and stem head system on my 1987 MK1 so can tell you what I had on my boat.

     The anchor roller was thru bolted with slotted screws (1/4" IIRC). The stack up is the anchor roller plate, foredeck then an aluminum backing plate, then washer/lock washer/nut. The backing plate, and washers were siliconed together and to the underside of the foredeck.

     The anchor roller and stem head fitting are welded together on my boat. If yours is the same, to remove the anchor roller you will either have to cut the welds at the stemhead fitting, or remove the entire stemhead fitting/anchor roller assembly as one piece. The stemhead fitting was thru bolted with slotted screws (1/4" IIRC). The stack up is stem, bow, aluminum backing plate, then washer/lock washer/nut.

     The problem for me was the stemhead was fitted between the bow and the aluminum rub rail extrusion. It would not come out without grinding the back of the extrusion and then pulling on the bottom of the stemhead to open the angle to get it to slide out. I'm replacing it so didn't care if I bent it.

     To get to the nuts/washers and backing plates there is a beckson port in the forward section of the anchor locker like Paul mentioned in his reply. I removed the whole beckson port to get as much access as possible and avoid getting my arm stuck in the hole. 

[Ron Hill]

Jim : Sorry to tell you that your longer bow roller was installed by a PO.  The first year of a factory bow roller installation on a C34 was 1989.

Who knows how the PO installed it?? 
If there are any thru bolts, they might be accessed thru the factory fwd Beckson port in the anchor locker.  That port was installed for the running light wiring!! 

Good luck!

[Jon W]

The 1st attached photo is what I am referring to as an anchor roller and stemhead fitting. Pretty sure this was factory installed on my 1987 MK 1 since it can not be removed or installed without either cutting it apart or bending the stem with the rub rail extrusion in place.

The second photo is a close up with the anchor roller and stemhead removed. Can see where I was grinding the backside of the rubrail extrusion.

(The center bow cleat is now removed and replaced with port and starboard 8" cleats).

[Stu Jackson]

I would like to remove the bow anchor roller to straighten one side which is bent out of position

Jim, do you have the older "toy" bow roller or the newer longer one?  One side of our "toy" bow roller got bent out of position.  I just used a big C clamp and using long handled slip joint pliers to turn the clamp screw, I compressed the two sides together, back into position.  I'd try doing it in place before removal.  Do you have any pictures?  Jon's picture is what I call a "toy" bow roller.  Both Steve Dolling and I like ours because there is much less of a moment arm from the anchor rode.

[Jim Brener]

Thanks for the replies.  I will try the port to see if I can access the bolts.  I have a longer bow roller and two cleats rather than the one center cleat.  I will take pictures and post them if I need more suggestions.