Interior Teak Color Matching

[Jon W]

Just replaced a damaged piece of teak that was covering the holding tank pump out hose. The new teak I have does not match the interior color at all. The original has more of a typical boat reddish tint to it. Did Catalina use a stain then varnish over it in 1987? Thanks for the help.

[Noah]

Don't know what they used back in 1987. But "time" has been at work on your interior and matching it to today's "bare" teak plywood made from young teak will take some experimenting with stain. I have successfully mixed my own color match using a dash of a couple different Minwax shades. And, when dry, using Watco teak oil over it.

[Ron Hill]

Jon W : The early MK 1 boats had nothing put on the interior and exterior teak!!  As natural teak ages it turns darker and redish because most owners oiled that teak (I believe it was recommended by the factory)

I'd just use some dark teak oil and let it age so it matchs the other teak.  I would NOT stain it.

A thought

[KWKloeber]

The original was the same color as the C-30s.   A member fabricated some new woodwork inside and matched his pretty well.   His comments:

Olympic interior oil based wood stain
American Cherry #41531.   
Took a couple of applications - not perfect but close.

I must reveal that he is a perfectionist wood worker, so his "close" is my "perfect".

I used to know the name of the oil originally used that imparted a darker than other teak finishes.   If I can find it, I'll repost.

-kk

[mainesail]

I don't use a "stain" to match interior teak I use tinted Watco Danish Oils. The Danish oil is much more forgiving and looks more like naturally aged teak rather than "stained" teak which looks, to me, artificially aged. 

I've not found much I can't match well with a few pints of Watco's Red Mahogany, Cherry and Fruitwood plus a few types of interior varnish, urethane etc... I always use a color-stick for color matching. I generally take a sample of the wood I am working with to make the color-stick. Each tint is separated by green Frog tape and represents different mixes of Danish oil colors and blends of colors until one matches. For example:

Red Mahogany - 30 second set time
Red Mahogany - 1 minute set time
Cherry - 30 second set time
Cherry - 1 minutes set time
Fruitwood - 30 second set time
Fruitwood - 1 minute set time
50/50 Red Mahogany & Cherry - 30 second set time
50/50 Red Mahogany & Cherry - 1 minute set time

Then when you've found the closest match you think before varnish add in the varhish.

50/50 Red Mahogany & Cherry 30 second set time + Epifanes
50/50 Red Mahogany & Cherry 30 second set time + Flagship
50/50 Red Mahogany & Cherry 30 second set time + Awlspar
50/50 Red Mahogany & Cherry 30 second set time + Varithane Satin (polyurethane)
50/50 Red Mahogany & Cherry 30 second set time + Captains
50/50 Red Mahogany & Cherry 30 second set time + Schooner Satin

etc. etc...

You want the match to come in just a touch below the existing wood because it will still age and darken slightly. When making the color-stick make sure to write down the set time before wiping it. The longer it sets on the wood, before wiping it off, can determine aging intensity. With a stain the minute it touches the wood it is essentially stained. I find Danish oils give you much greater flexibility and control and look considerably more naturally aged.. Making a color-stick takes a bit of time but once you know the match it is easier in the future. Now days I just grab one of them and I can often find a match for most boats.

The teak we get today is really quite horrible compared to the old growth stiff from the 70's and 80's and is "plantation grown", thus giving it a blonder look.  I learned this trick from one of the lead varnish guys at Hinckley back in the late 80's..

[KWKloeber]

Just replaced a damaged piece of teak that was covering the holding tank pump out hose. The new teak I have does not match the interior color at all. The original has more of a typical boat reddish tint to it. Did Catalina use a stain then varnish over it in 1987? Thanks for the help.

Jon,

Ok, the C-30 oldetymer guru says that the finish was defo Watco, but he doesn't know the color used.  Another said Watco "oak" -- seems hard to believe as that is the lightest Watco color (other than natural.)   Maybe ck w/ CTY to be sure, I would think they could rattle off the color name pretty quickly.   CatDirect also sells the color  - repackaged Watco no doubt. Watco is now Rustoleum -- available on Amazon.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/danish-oil

-kk
-ken

[KWKloeber]

Another comment on orig finish...

"the earlier models like mine had Watco as well - specifically it is Watco Danish Oil orig finish. Golden oak. 65151 (Jamestown $16.63/qt) and I got some. Its whats known as a "spot varnish" or Danish Oil. It goes on like an oil or varnish and then air dries. so unlike an oil it does not evaporate or absorb more or get oxidized.
here is a great article.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes

Excellent article, also.

-kk

[Fred Koehlmann]

Seems, that link doesn't work for me. However I did look it up and the full link is as follows:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes

[KWKloeber]

Thanks Fred I just corrected the broken link

The original one I copied from the C30 poster was to facebook, and then had to click on a link from there to the article.  I copied that instead of the final link!  I'm facebook-challenged (thankfully.)

kk

[KWKloeber]

I'm REALLY glad to see that article touches on Shellac - I don't think it gets its proper due in these 'modern days" -- when in oldentimes nearly everything had a shellac finish.

An aside (not really applicable to finishing teak soles, etc.) but (for those who don't already here's a tip for anyone staining softer wood (eg, pine) on or off a boat (eg, moldings, doors, window jambs, etc.)  They will MOSTimes turn out blotchy because of how highly variable they will soak up stain.  Even a quick wipe-off can't produce an even color density. 

So, mix up some white shellac with thinner (alcohol) to a ratio of 10 thinner : 1 shellac, (start with that first, and stain a scrap piece, and increase the shellac portion if necessary -- I usually just use 7 : 1.)  Brush it to wet out the ready-to-finish sanded piece -- you don't need to be fussy about being in a 100% dust free environment for this stage of finishing) and let dry (usually an hr or two is enough at room temp.)  Hit the surface with fine steel wool or a mild 3M pad, wipe down w/ whatever thinner works w/ your stain (oil- or water-based, etc) to remove dust, or w/ a tack cloth.   Stain away.  If you stain an unsealed scrap you won't believe the difference in how good your piece will look compared to your scrap.

-kk