ProNautic 1230P

[Paulus]

Cool Change is back after 3 months in the North Channel and Georgian Bay.  I installed a new charger last spring.  I have 4 golf cart batteries(1 large battery) and a starting battery.  I had left the charger on the factory setting(sealed) and had no issues.  We only used shore power 14 days during this summer.  Noticed this summer that my charger only ran for a few minutes and then went into maintenance mode when plugged into shore power. Should I have programed it for flooded batteries?  And also would this charged detect that the batteries were being charged by the solar panel?  I called the company, the young man I spoke to seems to think along these lines but was not a good listener.  Would be interested in some of your thoughts.  Had no issues with our electrical needs. 
Thanks,
Paul

[KWKloeber]

Use the profile(s) that most closely match the battery manufacturers' recommendations -- ie whatever the particular golf carts are looking for, and the starter is looking for.  Get those and program accordingly.

-kk

[Paulus]

kk
I programmed them according to the golf cart batteries when I got home, have not had a change to try it yet as the batteries were fully charged.  This charger will only let you set it to the presets for flooded. 
Thanks,
Paul

[KWKloeber]

What are your battery mfgrs/model numbers?

[Paulus]

 Model # T125
Paul

[KWKloeber]

Ok, so the T125s are looking for 14.82v / 13.5v and 16.2v equalization.  You used the Flooded Preset #1?  Pretty close except for the equalization (which is 15.5v.)

You can always use the custom setting and dial it all in closer. 

Previously it was charging at too low a voltage (14.4v)

And the reserve  battery?

-kk

[Paulus]

The starting battery get charged when we go into an anchorage or leave an anchorage.  Seems to keep it topped up.  Have checked with voltage meter.
Thanks,
Paul

[Jon W]

Hi Ken,
When you say too low at 14.4v, where did the 14.4v come from?

[Jon W]

Hi Paul,
    I did not change the voltage from the preset values that came with the charger when I did my upgrade. The terminology is a little different between mfr's, but the Promariner 1240P pre-set values align with the Trojan data sheet charging instructions for the T105 and T125 (12V).

    As far as I can tell there is only one owners manual for the ProNautic line of marine chargers.

    The ProNautic owners manual preset values for a flooded battery type are:
        Conditioning       14.8 vdc
        Auto Maintain     12.8-13.6 vdc
        Equalization       15.3-15.4 for 240 minutes

    The Trojan data sheet charging instructions for the T105 and T125 (12V) are:
        Absorption        14.8 vdc
        Float                13.2 vdc
        Equalization      15.5 vdc

I'm curious how your charging system works with solar and without an ACR or echo charge feature for the reserve/start battery. Do you have a dual output alternator? Do you have an external regulator? How is solar interconnected to the shore power and engine charging system?

[J_Sail]

Jon asked a good question. Is Paul suggesting that his starting battery is currently isolated and is charged only by the engine's alternator, or just stating that however it's connected seems to be working okay?
"The starting battery get charged when we go into an anchorage or leave an anchorage.  Seems to keep it topped up.  Have checked with voltage meter."

If it was indeed isolated then the alternator wouldn't charge both it and the house battery. Thus, presumably there is some sort of interconnect via either a combiner relay, diode-based charge distributor, or echo charger. Knowing what is used is important in ensuring that the charger settings serve both the house and starting battery well.

Also, one cannot determine state of charge with a simple volt meter check, so I would not be comfortable with "Seems to keep it topped up.  Have checked with voltage meter." without knowing more.

JR

[Paulus]

My original thread asked if both battery banks had to be the same for this charger.  Jon W. did a great job of addressing the house battery(4golf cart bank). No comments if this same setting is used for the starting battery(sealed)  as this charger is a "smart charger".  The only interconnect when the motor is running is the battery switch on the panel.  You cannot program for the different size battery banks or type:  flooded vs a sealed.  The second question pertained to the solar panel.  Would this charger detect that the house battery is being charged when on shore power or would they work together?
I did not mean to be flippant about some of the other questions that did not pertain to my original thread.
1. I test my house batteries with a hydrometer at the beginning of the season and once during the summer, at end of the season and use a volt meter in between.
2. My batteries are separate banks.  Connected only by the battery switch.
3. My starting battery is only charged with the motor alternator during entering and leaving anchorages.  It is also charged when plugged into shore power. 
4. The golf cart batteries are directly connected to my solar panel.  They can also be charged by the engine alternator(remember battery switch) or plugged into shore power.  I never leave the boat plugged into shore power if I leave it. 
Have used this system for many years.  The only new items to my electrical system is a solar panel and a "smart charger".
Thanks,
Paul

[mainesail]

My original thread asked if both battery banks had to be the same for this charger.  Jon W. did a great job of addressing the house battery(4golf cart bank). No comments if this same setting is used for the starting battery(sealed)  as this charger is a "smart charger".

I know I have likely beat this horse to death but the battery type is pretty irrelevant. What is relevant is the batteries recomended absorption and float voltage.

We really need to stop looking at the words on a chargers pre-set list and instead look at the VOLTAGES behind the words. AGM, GEL, Flooded, FDC etc. are words and they mean absolutely nothing without knowing the VOLTAGES behind those words. One manufactures voltage for AGM will NOT always be the same as the next thus you should only focus on the VOLTAGES the words represent.. For some AGM batteries you will be much better served using the FDC setting than the AGM setting but the custom setting will better be able to match the manufacturers recommended absorption & float voltages..

Trojan's are best charged at 14.8V absorption for a PSOC type use. If your "sealed" battery can also be charged at 14.8V then the charger can charge both. If the float voltage requirements are also the same, or very similar, then one charger can feed to different battery types without any issue.

VOLTAGE, VOLTAGE, VOLTAGE is the key not the words.


While your "smart charger" has outputs for "three banks" it is still ONE CHARGER with one single voltage proile used at a time. You can't for example put a GEL battery that needs 14.1V on output #2 and a Trojan that needs 14.8V on output #1 and then set the charger to 14.8V because you will destroy the GEL battery.

Here is a prime example of IGNORE THE WORDS and focus on the VOLTAGES


Here are some manufacturer suggested charging voltages:

AGM's - Which "AGM" Preset works?:
Lifeline AGM's = 14.4V & 13.4V = AGM Preset #1
Odyssey TPPL AGM's = 14.7V & 13.6V = Neither AGM Preset
Firefly AGM =14.4V & 13.2V = Neither AGM Preset
Mastervolt AGM = 14.4V & 13.2V = Neither AGM Preset
Full River AGM = 14.7V & 13.7V = Neither AGM Preset
Rolls AGM = 14.7V & 13.7V = Neither AGM Preset
East Penn/Deka = 14.6V & 13.6V = Neither AGM Preset
US Battery AGM = 14.4V & 13.4V = AGM Preset #1
Trojan AGM = 14.4V & 13.5V = Neither AGM Preset

This is why we should always buy chargers that have a custom setting. Please do not focus not on the words but on the voltages.

How about Trojan Flooded batteries? Which Flooded preset works for Trojan flooded batteries??

Trojan Flooded = 14.8V & 13.5V = Neither are ideal. So you use custom and set it at 14.8V and 13.5V

How about Deka / East Penn Flooded

Deka Floded = 14.7V & 13.8V = Neither are ideal. So you use custom and set it at 14.7V and 13.8V

* I know with the new ProMariner CEC (Kalifornia) compliant chargers they changed the profiles. Still it is the voltages that matter NOT the words...

[Jon W]

I was reserving comment on the start battery until I had an idea of your charging system and your start battery. It's surprising how the same words are used for different things. Example - maintenance free lead acid sealed battery, absorbed glass mat (agm) sealed battery. Both get referred to as sealed, but they have different charging requirements. That's why I referred to the battery mfr data sheets for the model number. In this case Trojan for the T105 and T125. What does the data sheet from your start battery mfr require? I think that is mainesail's point.

The title of this post says 1230. If so why choose the 1230P instead of the 1240P or a 1250P since you have a house bank with 4 x T125.

[KWKloeber]

I know I have likely beat this horse to death but the battery type is pretty irrelevant. What is relevant is the batteries recomended absorption and float voltage.

So RC - Let me get this straight.  What you're saying is ignore any battery voltage requirements and charger voltage outputs -- just set up for whatever battery "type" it is?  LOL!!!!!!!   

Is there ANY charger that you can set two profiles on -- house and reserve?

-Ken

[mainesail]

I know I have likely beat this horse to death but the battery type is pretty irrelevant. What is relevant is the batteries recomended absorption and float voltage.

So RC - Let me get this straight.  What you're saying is ignore any battery voltage requirements and charger voltage outputs -- just set up for whatever battery "type" it is?  LOL!!!!!!!   

Is there ANY charger that you can set two profiles on -- house and reserve?

-Ken

Um no, that is not what I said.... When I said ignore battery "type" I am referring to the often meaningless words on a battery chargers dip switch settings such as GEL, AGM or Flooded. You must know the voltages behind those words and the voltage requirements of your batteries. That is all that matters...

There are very few chargers that actually have two complete chargers in one case, and those that do are usually grossly over priced..