Stern pulpit

kh3412 · June 19, 2016, 04:19:43 PM

Has anybody removed the stern pulpit on a mk1. Wondering how to gain access to the bolts? Aft lazarette is out as to much mounted in there and even if you could get in and reach you can't reach the screws on the outside. Thinking of installing an inspection port in the rear hanging locker.

Stu Jackson · June 19, 2016, 06:30:34 PM

I am sure someone has gotten "bumped" and had to replace or repair one. I certainly don't recall it being mentioned here, though. I've had two new bow pulpits in 2014 and earlier this year. Don't ask...

One of our Fleet 1 skippers, the famous Bill Eddy, had one of his welds fail, but I don't recall how he fixed it, I think he had a yard do it. He had hull #214.

To your question:

The transom nuts MIGHT be installed in backing plates molded into the fiberglass. OR they could simply be bolts through, in which case you'd need an extender bar on a socket set, not so hard.

You'd need two people, right? With the helmsperson's seat raised, of course, there's no way you could reach the top of the bolt from down below.

What am I missing?

kh3412 · June 19, 2016, 07:45:04 PM

They are bolted underneath the problem is you can't see them and get an arm in there. And if you get them out forget about starting them when you go to put back.
They have to come off to weld, broken at base.

Phil Spicer · June 19, 2016, 07:59:51 PM

Puller my stern pulpit to weld cracks at the base plates. Pulled the propane locker out and un bolted outboard bases, 3 bolts each. Needed someone topside to hold the bolts. The inboard bases are bolted to threaded plates that are molded into the stern. Just unscrew them from the top. I can' see any way to get to the outboard bolts without getting into the aft locker unless you start cutting access holes on the stb side. The port side may be reached by removing the access panels in the back cabin.

Sue Clancy · June 20, 2016, 08:38:02 AM

We just removed our rail on our MK1 at several points to allow for repairs to the weld on the port forward side. Need a flexible thin person (we used my teenage son) to get into the aft locker on their back with a long handled socket wrench. Someone else on the deck to unscrew the bolts. Only the forward plates are through bolted, the others along the stern are just machine screws into a plate and can be done from above.

Beware that there is a wire running from the forward port side plate, through the stern rail to the running lights. You will need to rethread this if you take it all the way off. You may want to leave some type of trailer line in place to help with that.

We were able to take off only the port side bolts which gave our on site welder a way to get a tile mostly under the weld to repair the joint. Its not a beautiful weld but functions.

You may also be able to reach the port side by removing the engine control panel but there is no other access on the starboard side.

Stu Jackson · June 20, 2016, 02:50:37 PM

Quote from: Ron Hill on June 20, 2016, 02:32:12 PM
kh3 : Do you have a walk thru or a standard transom??

Mk 1 or MK II ??

Always identify your C34 year and transom.

a thought

I thought he was very clear:

Quote from: kh3412 on June 19, 2016, 04:19:43 PM
on a mk1.

britinusa · June 21, 2016, 07:39:44 AM

Just in case you only need to remove one side of the pulpit railing.

I cut out the joining rail so that it is easier to climb into the boat from the swim ladder.

Doing so would also eliminate the need to remove the entire pulpit if only one side needed work.

Paul

kh3412 · June 21, 2016, 06:08:58 PM

britinusa
Have not thought of cutting the center bar out, but will hold off on that. We just bought the boat and have not sailed it yet.
Hope to put it in the water July 1.
Sue
Mine is cracked on the starboard side so have to get it off. dash panel is off for the wiring repair and port side is no problem.
Removed the rear bulkhead in front of the water tank hoping there was enough room but no luck. So looking at how the hanging locker is installed and that it serves no
structural purpose thinking an access panel in the rear of it should work fine. This should give me greater access to the water fill hose and the refrigerator condenser for cleaning.
thanks

Noah · June 21, 2016, 08:15:47 PM

An access panel in the aft cabin hanging locker is an interesting thought. Perhaps someone has gone that route before? My reefer compressor is a PIA to get to as well, buried in the lassarette under a shelf. Not being at the boat I'm trying to visualize if a hole there would help...or not? Something to explore.

kh3412 · July 30, 2016, 07:43:09 AM

Well, just so the next person does not have go through guessing. Drilled and installed an access port on the rear wall of the rear hanging locker this will help with installing the water hose but not the stern rail bolts. But was able to see that a hole in the top of the locker towards the rear was spot on. Nuts are right there. 😀

kh3412 · August 28, 2016, 05:51:12 PM

Thought i would update the repair.
Removed and rewelded support, no problems there.
Countersunk holes and bedded with Butyl Tape.
Replaced bolts with button head allen bolts, as I hate phillips for stainless.

Jim Hardesty · August 29, 2016, 04:07:26 AM

QuoteReplaced bolts with button head allen bolts, as I hate phillips for stainless.

I changed to button head screws on the stanchions when I rebeded them. Wasn't too costly buying a box from Granger. Just need to be sure to get good stainless steel 316 is preferred. I think it's a good upgrade.

Jim

DaveBMusik · October 09, 2017, 11:49:43 AM

Quote from: kh3412 on August 28, 2016, 05:51:12 PM
Thought i would update the repair.
Removed and rewelded support, no problems there.
Countersunk holes and bedded with Butyl Tape.
Replaced bolts with button head allen bolts, as I hate phillips for stainless.

What size access plate did you use?
Did you use a hole saw that big or jig saw?

kh3412 · October 09, 2017, 01:38:46 PM

I can measure next weekend when I am at the boat but think it was a 4 or 5 inch opening.
Just found an access port I could fit a hand through, round screw on type like the one for the winch bolts
You will need an extension for the socket 6" - 8" should work.
Top of locker and toward the outside wall, leave room for the flange of the access panel.
The first picture shows the location looking in the locker, don't be confused by the sealed access port in the picture as that was my first try

The second picture is taken looking up through the hole and you see light where the three bolts were.
Do the repair before you install the access cover as to give you a little more room to work.