MK I traveller stands

[mregan]

I'm in the process of replacing the original traveller with a new Garhauer.  Had a few cracks in the top of the fiberglass supports so I was filling them with epoxy and figured I'd fill the existing bolt holes also since the new ones might not line up

In one hole I used 4 full syringes of epoxy and still didn't fill it.  The other holes were the same.  Ended up putting enough in the top to seal the openings.

Is the area under the stands hollow?  I figured they would be filled with wood but I guess not.  Either that or there are a ton of voids.

[RV61]

on my 1986 MK1 the fiberglass "stands" or boxes the  bolts that attach the traveler  are hallow. I know from repairing the original design where the bolts  did not go thru to cabin top just thru metal plate just beneath fiberglass where traveler  attached. I pulled these out on a jibe as I had not done upgrade for thru bolted. See critical upgrades. This area is also a source of leaks to cabin top. Hope this helps.

[mregan]

Thanks on the hollow tip, now I know where all the epoxy was going.  I was getting quite a bit of water through them.  When I pulled off the traveller, there was a pretty good crack lengthwise along the stand on both sides.  The bolts (4 per side) seemed to be still in pretty good but obviously the one or two most inboard must have been flexing to cause the cracking.  When I install the Garhauer traveller I plan on thru bolting.

[Andrew Harvey]

I used butyl tape to re bed the Garhauer traveler. The supports were leaking very badly.
The PO used silicone to bed and fill the old bolt hole.

[Jeff Kaplan]

When I replaced the old traveler on #219 with a new 6 to 1 Garhauer Traveler, I sent the old traveler tract to Garhauer so when they drilled the mounting holes, they would line up with the original holes, making the install easy.  If the new one is still in progress, call Guido and give him the bolt hole locations or send him the old track as the template.

[mregan]

I had premeasured all the holes and went over it with Guido and sent him a diagram before I ordered.  Hoping to install today so I'll see how my measurements went.  Plan to countersink the holes and bed with gasket before installing.

[Stu Jackson]

mr, are you going to have at least one bolt on each side for the new traveler go through per the Critical Upgrades?

It's hollow.  Seal the top with bed it with butyl from Maine Sail.  All you ever need!  Do NOT use silicone.

[mregan]

Stu,
I plan on putting 2 through bolts on each side and I will be using the butyl gasket.  I seal everything with it.

[Stu Jackson]

Matt, so it sounds like you won't be reusing the plate and having two long bolts each side.

From this post, from one of the links on the first Critical Upgrade post (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4935.msg29935.html#msg29935), I noted that where the bolts come down is very important on the port (head door) side.

Good luck.

[KWKloeber]

Plan to countersink the holes and bed with gasket before installing.

Are you gonna overdrill the fastener holes, rout out the core, epoxy and redrill the holes to size -- an hour up front to absolutely prevent any water damage in the long run?

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck


kk

[patrice]

Plan to countersink the holes and bed with gasket before installing.

Are you gonna overdrill the fastener holes, rout out the core, epoxy and redrill the holes to size -- an hour up front to absolutely prevent any water damage in the long run?

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck


kk

Hi,

It might take a lot of epoxy, from another post, it is hollow.

[KWKloeber]

Plan to countersink the holes and bed with gasket before installing.

Are you gonna overdrill the fastener holes, rout out the core, epoxy and redrill the holes to size -- an hour up front to absolutely prevent any water damage in the long run?

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck


kk

Hi,

It might take a lot of epoxy, from another post, it is hollow.

OMG no need to fill an entire void such as that.  If needing to fill a void, a professional trick is a little expanding foam insulation (the very low expansion stuff!!)   Squirt JUST A LITTLE inside to create a "dam" in the void, let cure, rout out, fill, voila'   

I did that between coming/liner where I needed a viable substrate to repair pulled-out canvas snaps.   

kk

[mregan]

The top of the stand isn't too thick but I should be able to countersink the hole a bit to get a good butyl seal.

Stu, I read that before I took on the project.  When I was at the boat epoxying the other day, I took a quick look as to where the bolts might come down.  Looks like it will come well in front of the head door.  I really only took a 2 second glance so I might have been mistaken.  Plan to get down on Veterans Day and get it installed and the winter cover on.

[KWKloeber]

The top of the stand isn't too thick but I should be able to countersink the hole a bit to get a good butyl seal.

You want to be sealing the DECK with epoxy and countersinking.

kk