Main sheet hitting new dodger

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Set2sea

I had a new dodger made and the main sheet is contacting the forward bar when I tack and when I'm sheeted in tight. I had the boom lifted up when they built it not realizing how much that effected the lie of the sheet.
One solution would be to move the aft block forward probably 3". I don't have a boom vang but I am planning on getting one next season.
Do you think moving the block would be sacrificing control with the addition of a solid vang?
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

Ted Pounds

I don't think moving the block will affect the control one bit. I don't see how it could.  You might want to check with Catalina regarding boom structural issues, but I doubt that would be a problem either.
Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

Stu Jackson

Paul, it won't affect anything related to the sheet.  Ted's right.  However, what you'll then have is two closely spaced holes in the boom, not so good.  If anything, I'd move it even further forward to separate the two (old & new) boom holes as much as possible.  I would also oversize the new hole(s) and place a new bushing over the bolt that goes through the boom and holds the bail.  The bolts are ss, the boom is aluminum.  I put bushings on all my bails years ago.  I had a choice: ss or AL bushings, either way one was going to act with the other.  I got AL ones at a local metal shop, simple to oversize the holes and cut the bushings the right length.  The bushings require larger holes and the larger holes provide more surface area for the boom to support the loads on the bail bolt.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Gary

Another alternative is to work with the loft that made the dodger for you. Canvas is very forgiving and adjustment and re-design is actually part of the install throughout the design and construction processes.

Only your canvas maker can answer this question but it is worth a try to keep the original blocks and locations in place. It is amazing how canvas & bows can be re-configured and repaired. It is common to install new glass, zippers, and to cut and paste canvas structure.

Gary
Gary Ambrose
Kije #215
1986 Fin Keel
Falmouth Foreside, ME

Set2sea

Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

Ron Hill

Set2 : I completely agree with Gary.

See what the builder of the dodger can do in the way of adjustments before moving blocks!!

Ron, Apache #788

Set2sea

My canvas guy says he would have to remake the whole dodger, I believe him. If it wasn't advisable to move the blocks that is what I was going to suggest he do. Why should I pay that kind of money for something that is that flawed!
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

Gary

I would try to get your canvas guy on the boat with you. A shared conversation, the chance to discuss options and possibilities might have him seeing a way to modify the existing dodger for you. At the very least he might be able to attach some protection to the dodger.

It seems like pulling the bows back a few inches could solve the problem: re-shape the dodger with nip and tucks, and at worst, new side curtains

Most reputable companies want a happy customer. A shared visit and conversation could provide a solution. Most canvas work is not a one time visit and they should be used to working with their customers to complete the fit. And, mistakes and adjustments are part of the business model in canvas work.

Gary
Gary Ambrose
Kije #215
1986 Fin Keel
Falmouth Foreside, ME

Set2sea

Thank you Gary, I think I will opt for just what you said and get him on the boat!
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

KWKloeber

To my knowledge the C-30, C-34, C-36 all use the identical boom section, so ie.  way over kill.

I'd need to work up the engineering of changing the stress point, but seat of the pants says neither you nor the boom will tell the difference.
In fact the C-30 had a few different mid ship sheeting locations and none of them have failed due to the location being "x feet" or "x feet + y inches".   No doubt the same for the C-34.

The question is, was the canvas guy made aware of the cause/result of dropping the topping lift?    Same thing happened to me (boom end hit the connecting awning between dodger/bimini) but we worked it out with some canvas/stainless adjustments, and raising and shortening the boom a tad.

KK
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

Ken : The boom hitting the connecting piece is a simple thing, but the mainsheet line hitting the forward bow of the dodger is un-hear-of!!

I would think that any canvas maker ("worth his salt") could have seen that coming and adjusted the toping lift before doing any measurements!! 

Set2 : I'd get that guy back on the boat and see if he can't do some tweaking of the bow and canvas to solve the problem. 
If he can't I surely wouldn't recommend him to any, but my sailing enemies!

My thoughts   
Ron, Apache #788

KWKloeber

Quote from: Ron Hill on August 12, 2015, 01:51:22 PM
Ken : The boom hitting the connecting piece is a simple thing, but the mainsheet line hitting the forward bow of the dodger is un-hear-of!!

I would think that any canvas maker ("worth his salt") could have seen that coming and adjusted the toping lift before doing any measurements!! 

Set2 : I'd get that guy back on the boat and see if he can't do some tweaking of the bow and canvas to solve the problem. 
If he can't I surely wouldn't recommend him to any, but my sailing enemies!

My thoughts   

I AGREE, get him aboard to see what he can do. 
But the question was will moving the block be a problem, and no it won't.

My point (obviously I was unclear) was to never completely trust anyone working on YOUR baby.  I learned that the hard way 20 yrs ago.  Not every marine electrician or mechanic or canvas guy is also a boater, so doesn't necessarily know the ins and outs of sailing and boom location and whatnot. 

My Boat, My Choice as to what gets done, and how, and the end result -- and I trust no one until they prove themselves to me that they know what they are doing - like I should have asked "how do you accommodate the boom location when the topping list is eased and the main hard sheeted down?"  If s/he has a blank stare -- either it's "NEXT candidate," or I educate her/him because the work is otherwise superior and I want that product.  They are OUR boats, and I believe that we have ultimate responsibility to make sure things turn out as we want them.

JTSO
KK
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ed Shankle

Paul,
Did Macnamara build it? He did my dodger and also owned a c34. If it was him, no excuse.

Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

Set2sea

No Ed, I had it done by a guy I know out of Hull.
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

Ed Shankle

Another consideration is the cut of your main sail. Since you took measurements from my dodger and I don't have a problem, I was thinking maybe you can crank down your sail further than I do. I could see having the same problem if my boom angle to the mast was greater. Maybe the leach is too long? As you noted, a rigid vang would help once you reach the compression limit of the vang, but your main sail trim will be inefficient if the leach is longer than spec.

Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA